ENCYCLOPEDIA

OF

NEEDLEWORK

BY

THÉRÈSE DE DILLMONT

ENGLISH EDITION

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ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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To be had:

of TH. DE DILLMONT, DORNACH, Alsace,
and at all booksellers, and embroidery shops.

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Price, English bound with gilt edges:

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Preface.

The absolute want of any comprehensive book on needlework—such an one as contains both verbal and pictorial descriptions of everything included under the name of needlework—has led me to put into the serviceable form of an Encyclopedia, all the knowledge and experience, which years of unceasing study and practice have enabled me to accumulate on the subject, with the hope that diligent female workers of all ages, may be able, by its means to instruct themselves in every branch of plain and fancy needlework.

All the patterns given, even the most insignificant, were worked afresh for the purpose, and thus, not merely faithful representations, but also lucid and intelligible explanations of the same, are secured.

In order that my readers may have something besides the dull theory, the work is enlivened by a number of useful patterns, some new, some derived from the artistic productions of such countries and epochs as have become famous by special excellence in the domain of needlework.

Though, at first sight, the reproduction of many of these patterns may seem to present insuperable difficulties, they will, after a careful study of the text, and exact attention to the directions given, prove easy to carry out.

Many of these interesting designs are drawn from private collections, whose owners, with great kindness, placed their treasures at my disposal, to copy and borrow from at discretion, for which I desire to take the present opportunity, of tendering them my warmest thanks.

The choice of colours and material—a difficult matter to many—my readers will find rendered comparatively easy to them by the notes affixed to the illustrations; and I may point out, that most of the patterns were worked with D.M.C cottons, which enjoy the well-earned reputation of being, the very best of their kind, in the market of the world.

Experience has convinced me that, in many instances, these cottons may with advantage take the place of wool, linen thread, and even silk.

If this work meet with indulgent judges, and prove really useful, I shall find ample reward in that fact for the trouble and difficulties that have unavoidably attended its completion.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Seams Gathering Sewing on cord and flaps 10 Button-holes 11 Sewing on buttons 12 Binding slits 13 Sewing on piping 13 Fixing whale-bones—Herring-boning 14 MENDING 15 Linen darning 16 Satin or twill darning 17 Damask darning 18 Fine-drawing 20 Patching 20 SINGLE AND CUT OPEN-WORK 23 Hem-stitching 24 Open-work patterns 27 Cutting out threads at the corners 39 Cut open-work 40 Patterns for cut open-work 42 NET AND DAMASK STITCHES 51

class="pgexternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Net embroidery 51 Net patterns 52 Net darning 62 Damask stitches 63 WHITE EMBROIDERY 76 Stitches 77 Different kinds of scallops 79 Eyelet holes 80 Six ways of making dots 81 Venetian embroidery 82 Patterns and alphabets 83 FLAT STITCH AND GOLD EMBROIDERY 105 Encroaching satin stitch 105 Oriental stitch 106 Plaited stitch and mosaic stitch 108 Persian stitch 109 Straight and encroaching flat stitch patterns 110 Chinese embroidery 111 Raised embroidery 113 Turkish embroidery 113

Implements and materials for gold embroidery 115 Stitches used in gold embroidery 119 Patterns for gold embroidery 120 TAPESTRY AND LINEN EMBROIDERY 127 Marking out the embroidery ground 128 Tapestry stitches 129 Tapestry patterns 138 Stitches for linen embroidery 143 Patterns for linen embroidery 152 KNITTING 171 Position of the hands 172 Casting on 173 Stitches 178 Stocking knitting 182 Scalloped edge 183 Heels 184 Toes 189 Mending knitting 190 Piqué patterns 195 Patent knitting

tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">201 Turkish stitch 201 Knitting patterns 203 CROCHET WORK 221 Position of the hands 223 Stitches 223 Method for copying tapestry patterns in crochet 238 Crochet with soutache or lacet 239 Crochet square, hexagon and star 240 Tunisian crochet 241 Hairpin crochet 243 Patterns for hairpin crochet 245 Crochet lace patterns 249 Crochet counterpanes 284 Crochet stars 300 Crochet collar 304 Crochet chair-back 316 TATTING 325 Position of the hands 326 Knots 328 Patterns of scallops and medallions

331 MACRAMÉ 343 Materials and implements 344 Formation of the knots 345 Macramé shuttles 360 Macramé patterns 361 NETTING 395 Implements and materials 395 Stitches 397 Patterns produced in netting 400 Mounting the netting on the frame 410 Stars and wheels 414 Grounds and lace 423 Embroidery on netting 434 Netted insertion 438 IRISH LACE 439 Materials 439 Tacking down the braids 440 Bars of different kinds 442 Insertion stitches 445 Lace stitches

class="pgexternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">450 Needle-made picots 467 Irish lace patterns 468 LACES OF DIFFERENT KINDS 473 Pillow lace and the implements for its manufacture 474 «Stitches» or passings 481 Patterns or grounds 481 Armenian lace 503 Laces in knotted stitch 505 Reticella-lace 508 Venetian-lace 510 Brussels-lace 515 MISCELLANEOUS FANCY WORK 517 Knotted cord 518 Balls for trimmings 519 Tambour work 521 Smyrna stitch 523 Malta stitch 525 Triangular Turkish stitch 526 Turkish embroidery 530

tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Appliqué-work 531 Morocco embroidery 535 Spanish embroidery 536 Different kinds of linen stitches 540 Pattern for linen stitches 541 Pattern for Roumanian stitch 544 Pattern for Piqué embroidery 546 Embroideries with Soutache 546 Chinese subject 551 PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 553 Tracing and drawing the designs 553 The preparation of the stuffs and the subdivision of the patterns 557 To transpose and repeat patterns by means of looking glasses 559 To alter the proportions of a pattern by dividing the ground into squares 560 To prepare the paste for appliqué work 564 To stiffen new needlework 565 To wash ordinary lace 565 To wash real lace 566 To stiffen lace 566

To iron lace 566 To pin out lace 567 To wash coloured cottons and work done with the same 568 Materials 569

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☞ By the same Author ☜

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ALBUM DE BRODERIES

AU POINT DE CROIX.

(Album of cross-stitch embroidery)

BY TH. DE DILLMONT

32 Plates with 278 Designs, and a complete treatise on the embroidery itself.

Quarto; artistic boards, price 1s. 6d.

To be had by applying to the Author and Editor TH. DE DILLMONT, DORNACH, Alsace, and at all the leading booksellers and Embroidery shops.

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PRINTED BY BRUSTLEIN & Co.,

MULHOUSE (Alsace)