The Project Gutenberg eBook, Home Taxidermy for Pleasure and Profit, by Albert B. Farnham
Title: Home Taxidermy for Pleasure and Profit
A Guide for Those Who Wish to Prepare and Mount Animals, Birds, Fish, Reptiles, etc., for Home, Den, or Office Decoration
Author: Albert B. Farnham
Release Date: October 31, 2007 [eBook #23259]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOME TAXIDERMY FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT***
E-text prepared by Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, Rudy Ketterer,
and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team
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Home Taxidermy for Pleasure and Profit
A Guide for those who wish to prepare
and mount animals, birds, fish,
reptiles, etc., for home, den,
or office decoration
By Albert B. Farnham, Taxidermist
Published by
A. R. HARDING, Publisher
Columbus, Ohio
Copyright, 1944
By A. R. Harding Pub. Co.
CONTENTS
Chapter. Page. Introductory 13 I. History of the Art 17 II. Outfit—Tools and Materials 21 III. Preservative Preparations, Formula, etc. 38 IV. Panels, Shields and Natural and Artificial Mounts 48 V. Field Work, Collecting 59 VI. Skinning and Preserving Skins 64 VII. Making Scientific Skins 77 VIII. Preparing Dry and Wet Skins for Mounting 84 IX. Mounting Small and Medium Birds 87 X. Mounting Large Birds 98 XI. Tanning, Cleaning, and Poisoning Skins 102 XII. Making Animal Fur Rugs 110 XIII. Fur Robes and How to Make Them 123 XIV. Mounting Entire Small Animals 131 XV. Mounting Large Animals 141 XVI. Mounting Heads of Small Animals, Birds and Fish 151 XVII. Mounting Heads of Large Game 155 XVIII. Mounting Horns and Antlers 165 XIX. Mounting Feet and Hoofs 173 XX. Mounting Fish 178 XXI. Mounting Fish—Baumgartel Method 185 XXII. Mounting Reptiles, Frogs andList of Illustrations
Page. "Whoo? Said Wise Old Owl" Frontispiece A Specimen of the Early Day 18 Work Table, Supplies, Tools, Etc. 22 Home Made Tools 24 Taxidermists Tools 27 Taxidermists Tools—Scalpels, Scissors, Stuffers 28 Egg Drill and Other Tools 29 Glass Eyes for Animals, Birds, Fish 31 Sizes of Glass Eyes 33 Sizes of Glass Eyes (Style 1) 34 Shields—Various Kinds and Sizes 49 Shields, Foot and Hall Rack 50 Gun Rack, Fish and Game Panels, Hall Rack 51 Some Shields and Panels 52 Home Made Shield 54 Small Bird 55 Marbles Shot Gun and Rifle Combined 60 The "Stop Thief" or Choke Trap 61 Outline of Muskrat 65 Skinning Small Animal for Mounting 66 Skinning Large Animal for Mounting 69 Skinning Bird—Breast Cut 70 Hooded Merganser 71 Opening Cut on Bird 73 Scientific Skins, SmallINTRODUCTION
This volume of the Pleasure and Profit Library is offered to the hunter, trapper, fisher, vacationist and out of doors people in general. In the study and practice of taxidermy for several years I have failed to find any work written primarily for these every day nature lovers, though they probably handle a greater number of interesting specimens of animal life than all other classes of people.
In view of this fact the following directions and suggestions for preserving various animal forms as objects of use and ornament have been prepared. As a treatise for the scientist or museum preparator it is not intended, there are many books on the art expressly for them, but we hope it may fill a place of its own, acting as a not too dry and technical introduction to the art preservative for those who find life all too short for the many things which are to be done.
Thoroughness, patience, and some love for nature, are qualities highly desirable in this art. Work prepared by one possessing these qualities need not be ashamed and practice will bring skill and perfection of technic.
As a handicraft in which the workman has not been displaced or made secondary by a machine taxidermy is noticeable also, and for many reasons is worthy of its corner in the home work-shop.
In this work also the ladies can take a very effective hand, and numbers have done so; for there is no doubt that a woman's taste and lightness of touch enables her in some branches of taxidermy to far exceed the average man. Especially in the manipulation of frail skins and delicate feathers, in bird taxidermy, is this so.
I have endeavored to give preference to short cuts and time-saving methods where possible in the following matter, and especially hints on saving interesting and valuable specimens temporarily until sufficient leisure is had to do justice to their further preservation. In this connection I have given prominence to the liquid preservative for entire specimens and the methods for preserving skins of birds and animals in a damp and relaxed state ready for mounting at the operator's pleasure.
I would urge the beginner especially, to mount all his specimens as far as possible. Dry scientific skins have their value, perhaps, to the museum or closet naturalist whose chief delight is in multiplying species, but a well mounted skin is a pleasure to all who may see it. Making it a rule to utilize thus all specimens which come to hand would also deter much thoughtless killing in the ranks of the country's already depleted wild life.
Make this a rule and you will avoid friction and show yourself truly a conservationist with the best. In a number of states there are legal restrictions in the way of a license tax imposed on the professional taxidermist. Detailed information of these are found in Game, Fur and Fish Laws of the various states and Canadian provinces. Fur and game animals and birds killed legally during open season may be preserved by the taker for private possession without hindrance anywhere, I think. More explicit details may be had on application to your state fish and game commissioner or warden.
Home Taxidermy for Pleasure and Profit
CHAPTER I.
HISTORY.
It is very evident that this art—Taxidermy, preservation or care of skins—had its origin far back before the dawn of written history. There existed then as now the desire to preserve the trophy of the hunter's prowess and skill and the unusual in natural objects.
As far back as five centuries B. C. in the record of the African explorations of Hanno the Carthaginian, an account is given of the discovery of what was evidently the gorilla and the subsequent preservation of their skins, which were, on the return of the voyagers, hung in the temple of Astarte, where they remained until the taking of Carthage in the year 146 B. C.
This, of course, was not the art as we know it now, but shows the beginnings of what might be called the museum idea. The art of embalming as practiced by the ancient Egyptians was, however, effective, not for the purpose of having the specimens look natural, or for exhibition, but to satisfy the superstition of the times, and though a preservative art, hardly to be classed with taxidermy.
In the tombs of that period are found besides the mummies of human beings, countless others of dogs, cats, monkeys, birds, sheep and oxen. There have been a number of efforts made to substitute some form of embalming for present day taxidermy but without much success, for though the body of the specimen may be preserved from decay without removing it from the skin, the subsequent shrinkage and distortion spoil any effect which may have been achieved.
The first attempt at stuffing and mounting birds was said to have been made in Amsterdam in the beginning of the 16th century. The oldest museum specimen in existence, as far as I know, is a rhinoceros in the Royal Museum of Vertebrates in Florence, Italy, said to have been originally mounted in the 16th century.
Probably on account of the necessary knowledge of preservative chemicals, the art seems to have been in the hands of chemists and astrologers, chiefly, during the middle ages, and stuffed animals such as bats, crocodiles, frogs, snakes, lizards, owls, etc., figure in literary descriptions of their abodes. Then as now also, the dining halls of the nobles and wealthy were decorated with heads and horns procured
The first publications on the art seem to have been made in France, in which country and Germany, many still used methods and formulas originated. Though the first volume of instruction in taxidermy was published in the United States as late as 1865, it has been left for the study and ingenuity of American taxidermists to accomplish what is probably work of as high a standard as any in the world.
The Ward establishment at Rochester has turned out many well trained taxidermists, the large museums of the United States are filled with some of the best work of the kind in existence, besides many persons who have engaged in it for commercial purposes or to gratify private tastes. Many of these have made public their methods and modes in various publications. Among these are the works of Batty, Hornaday, Shofeldt, Davie, Rowley, Maynard, Reed and others, all of which are invaluable books of reference for the home taxidermist.
It is to be regretted that the once flourishing Society of American Taxidermists has not been perpetuated, numbering, as it did, among its membership the best artists in their line in this country.
There is no royal road to success in this, more than any other of the arts and sciences, though I believe the ambitious beginner will find the way smoother; better materials are to be had, more helpful publications to be consulted and the lessening supply of wild life tends to make a more appreciative public than ever before.
CHAPTER II.
OUTFIT—TOOLS AND MATERIALS.
The extent and variety of work undertaken will determine the necessary working space and the assortment of tools needful. Other things being equal, the most complete assortment of tools and supplies makes possible the production of the best work in the minimum time. The equipment of the beginner need be but small and inexpensive, however, increasing the same as he discovers what is most necessary and desirable, in an increasing field of work. Wonderful pieces of taxidermy have been done with a pocket knife, pliers, needle and thread, some wire, tow and arsenic.
If no other room offers, much may be achieved (with the permission of the lady of the house) in a corner of a dining room or kitchen. A room or part of one well lighted, by north window or sky-light preferably, makes the best location for the work table. This table may be of the common unpainted kitchen variety for all small work. It is well to make the top double by hinging on two leaves, which when extended will make it twice its usual width. When so extended and supported by swinging brackets it is specially adapted to sewing on rugs and robes. Such tables usually have one or two shallow drawers which are most useful to hold small tools. A shelf should be fitted between the legs, six or eight inches from the floor, forming a handy place for boxes of materials, books, etc.
If large work is in prospect a table should be built of the usual heighth, two or three feet wide, and six long. The legs of stout scantlings should be fitted with casters, making it easy to remove it to the center of the room where it can be approached on all sides, as will often be necessary. The double top, drawers, and shelf should be a part of the larger table also. Usually the table is kept in front of the window with tool racks and shelves for small articles each side of the same where they can easily be reached.
For preparing and mounting all small and medium size specimens I would advise the following list of tools. They will enable the worker to care for any of our native birds, quadrupeds up to the coyote, and any of our game heads, fur rugs, etc.
1 small skinning knife 1 medium skinning knife 1 larger skinning knife 1 pair scissors, fine points 1 pair shears, heavy, short 2 pairs flat nose pliers, large and small. 1 pair side or end cutters 1 pair fine forceps, 5 or 6 inch 2 flat files, large and small 1 adjustable tool handle, assorted tools, awls. 2 pinking irons, ¾ and 1½ inch Needles, assortment of cloth and glovers OilstoneIf it is capable of taking and holding a good edge the small blade of a pocket knife is equal to a surgeon's scalpel and a sharp shoe or paring knife, ground to the proper shape, is a nice medium size for skinning or trimming skins. A hunting or butcher knife is sufficient for the largest size. A few carpenter's tools are necessary and a complete set does not come amiss if much large work is attempted.
We must have:
Handsaw Hatchet Hammer Bit brace Assortment, drills and bits, ½ in. and less. Drawshave Screwdriver Small grindstone or corundum wheel Chisels, two or three sizes 1 wood rasp 1 cabinet rasp 1 chopping block, made of a section of hardwood logIf large animals are to be mounted we will need in addition some iron working tools, such as
Set of taps and dies ¼ to 1 in. Monkey wrench Hack saw Tanner's knives, 1 or moreA combination vise and anvil will be needed in any case as well as some miscellaneous tools:
Fur comb, coarse and fine combined Paint, wax, and varnish brushes Foot rule Tape measure Putty knife Pointing trowel Skin scraperand some stuffing and modelling tools which you can make yourself. The list of materials seems like a long one, but many are inexpensive and others are used only in some small amounts, so the aggregate cost is small.
Excelsior Fine tow Cotton bat or wadding Plaster paris Corn meal Gasoline Potter's or modelling clay Set tube oil colors Glass eyes, assorted Soft wire, assorted Pins Cord Spool cotton, coarse and fine, black and white Wax, varnish, glue, paste Papier mache, or paper for same An assortment of nails, tacks, brads, screws, screw eyes and staplesA packing box or two will furnish some lumber for temporary stands and interior frame work. The permanent mounts are
In ordering glass eyes it is often best to get them in the clear glass iris with black pupil so they may be given any color desired by painting the backs with tube colors, afterward protecting the paint with varnish. In this way a small stock will answer for many varieties. The plain black eye which is the least expensive can be used for many of the smaller birds and mammals, but should never be when the iris of the eye has any distinct tint. Do not make the mistake of ordering an assortment of "off" sizes and colors, that is those which are seldom called for. Aim to have those on hand for which you will have the most frequent use, the exceptions can be quickly had by parcel post. There is more demand for eyes of some shade of yellow or brown than any other colors, probably.
All birds have the round pupil. Elongated pupils are suitable for horned game and the cat tribe, irregular pupils fish, and the veined iris for dogs, wolves and foxes. Suitable sizes for some species of birds are as follows:
Number 3 to 5 Sparrows generally. Number 5 to 7 Robin, blue jay, flicker. Number 7 to 9 The smaller hawks and herons, nearly all the ducks. Number 10 to 12 The smaller owls, the wild goose. Number 12 to 14 The larger hawks and herons. Number 15 Screech owl, eagles. Number 17 Barred owl. Number 19 or 20 Snowy owl and great horned owl.Size of eyes for quadrupeds:
Number 7 or 8 Mink, skunk, red squirrel. Number 10 to 12 Gray and fox squirrel, wood chuck, raccoon and opossum. Number 12 to 14 Rabbit, small dogs, house cat. Number 15 to 17 Jack rabbit, fox, medium size dogs, wild cat, black bear. Number 18 Large dog, wolf, lynx, and grizzly bear. Number 20 to 22 Puma, jaguar, small deer. Number 23 to 24 Large deer, tiger. Number 25 to 27 Moose, elk, caribou, horse, cow, lion.
Of wire the following sizes are suitable for birds:
Number 6 Pelican. Number 7 Wild turkey, swan. Number 8 Eagles. Number 9 Loon, goose, large herons. Number 10 Seagull, large ducks, hawks, owls, and fish hawk. Number 11 or 12 Medium size ducks, herons, and similar. Number 13 or 14 Small ducks and grouse. Number 15 Small herons, and medium owls. Number 16 Doves, small owls. Number 17 or 18 Bob white, jay, robin, snipe. Number 19 Blackbird, waxwing, oriole. Number 20 Bluebird, cardinal. Number 21 to 24 Warblers, wrens, titmouse, finches. Number 26 North American humming bird.For quadrupeds:
Number 7 Wild cat. Number 8 Foxes. Number 10 Raccoon, wood chuck. Number 11 Skunk, opossum. Number 12 or 13 Muskrat, rabbit. Number 14 or 15 Mink, large squirrels. Number 17 or 18 Weasel, bull frog, and small squirrels.These sizes are approximate, varying with size of the individual specimen and the required attitude wanted. For instance, a bird mounted with wings spread would be better for a large size wire than if in a resting position. An animal crouched does not require as heavy supports as one upright or in action. It is best to give the specimen the benefit of the doubt, as nothing is more disastrous than to have an otherwise well mounted subject sag down and spoil the entire effect from lack of sufficient mechanical support. The best wire for this purpose is annealed, galvanized iron. Larger animals require Norway iron rod in the following sizes:
¼ in. Coyote, setter dog. 5/16 in. Wolf, puma. ⅜ in. Medium deer. ½ in. Caribou and large deer. ¾ in. Moose, elk.A large earthen jar or two will hold sufficient skin pickle for small animals. For large animals or great numbers of small ones a tank or barrel. Keep such jars or barrels covered to prevent evaporation. With dry arsenic and alum, arsenical solution, formaldehyde for an emergency and plenty of salt, even a beginner should be able to save almost anything that falls into his clutches.
There are numbers of reliable dealers in tools and supplies for the taxidermist and a perusal of their catalogs will be helpful, among the number being James P. Babbitt, 192 Hodges Ave., Taunton, Mass. Ready to use head forms, pinked rug and robe trimming, artificial tongues and ear forms, and even paper head and neck forms for the mounting of large game heads are some of the time and labor saving supplies they list. If you cannot attain to these, emergency supplies can be had of the dealer in hardware and dry goods, and one who cares for the art will rise superior to the material at his hand. What you "stuff 'em with" is of small consequence provided you use brains in the job. I