OLD AND NEW PARIS

Its History, its People, and its Places

 

BY
H. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS
AUTHOR OF “IDOLS OF THE FRENCH STAGE” “THE GERMANS IN FRANCE” “THE
RUSSIANS AT HOME” ETC. ETC.


VOL. II


WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS

C A S S E L L   AND   C O M P A N Y   LIMITED
LONDON PARIS & MELBOURNE
1894
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. STREET CHARACTERS. PAGE The “Cocher”—The Bus-driver—The Private Coachman—The Hackney Coachman—The Public Writer—The Flower-girl—The Oyster-woman 1 CHAPTER II. THE ENGLISH AND AMERICANS IN PARIS. The Englishman Abroad—M. Lemoinne’s Analysis—The Englishwoman—Sunday in London and in Paris—Americans in Paris—The American Girl 9 CHAPTER III. MORE PARISIAN TYPES. The Spy—Under Sartines and Berryer—Fouché—Delavau—The Present System—The Écuyère—The Circus in Paris 17 CHAPTER IV. THE DOMESTIC. The French Servant, as described by Léon Gozlan and by Mercier—The Cook and the Cordon Bleu—The Valet 20 CHAPTER V. PARISIAN CHARACTERISTICS. Parisian Characteristics—Gaiety, Flippancy Wit—A String of Favourite Anecdotes 24 CHAPTER VI. THE STREETS. The Arrangement of the Streets—System of Numbering the Houses—Street Nomenclature—Street Lamps—The Various Kinds of Vehicles in Use 28 CHAPTER VII. THE SEINE AND ITS BRIDGES.—THE MORGUE. The Various Bridges over the Seine—Their Histories—The Morgue—Some Statistics 33 CHAPTER VIII. THE REFORMATION IN PARIS. D’Étaples, the Pioneer of the Reformation—Nicolas Cop and Calvin—Progress of the Reformation—Persecutions—Catharine de Médicis—St. Bartholomew’s—The Edict of Nantes 36 CHAPTER IX. THE UNIVERSITY OF PARIS AND THE COLLEGE OF FRANCE. The French Educational System—Lycées and Collèges—The University of Paris—The College of France 44 CHAPTER X. THE SORBONNE. Robert de Sorbonne—The Sorbonne, its Origin and History—Richelieu—The Revolution—The New Sorbonne—Mercier’s Views 49 CHAPTER XI. THE INSTITUTE. The Institute—Its Unique Character—The Objects of its Projectors—Its Constitution 53 CHAPTER XII. THE ACADÉMIE FRANÇAISE. The Académie Française—Its Foundation by Richelieu—Its Constitution—The “Forty-first Chair” 55 CHAPTER XIII. THE PANTHÉON. The Church of Clovis—The Church of Sainte-Geneviève—France in the Thirteenth Century—The Building of the New Church under Louis XV.—Mirabeau and the Constituent Assembly—The Church of Sainte-Geneviève becomes the Panthéon. 59 CHAPTER XIV. THE POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. The “Central School of Public Works”—Bonaparte and the Polytechnic—The College of Navarre—Formal Inauguration in 1805—1816—1830 67 CHAPTER XV. THE HÔTEL CLUNY. The Rue des Carmes—Comte de Mun and the Catholic Workmen’s Club—The Place Maubert—The Palais des Thermes—The Hôtel Cluny—Its History—Its Art Treasures 71 CHAPTER XVI. THE MUSÉE D’ARTILLERIE. The Museum of Artillery—Its Origin and History—The Growth of its Collection of Armour and Weapons of all Kinds 83 CHAPTER XVII. THE VAL DE GRÂCE—RELICS OF THE GREAT. The Deaf and Dumb Institution—The Val de Grâce—Hearts as Relics—Royal Funerals—The Church of Saint-Denis 89 CHAPTER XVIII. THE CATACOMBS: THE OBSERVATORY. Origin of the Catacombs—The Quarries of Mont Souris—The Observatory—Marshal Ney—The School of Medicine 99 CHAPTER XIX. THE ODÉON: THE LUXEMBURG PALACE. The Odéon—Its History—Erection of the Present Building in 1799—Marie de Médicis and the Luxemburg Palace—The Judicial Annals of the Luxemburg—Trials of Fieschi and Louvel—Trial of Louis Napoleon—Trial of the Duc de Praslin 109 CHAPTER XX. THE PRISONS OF PARIS. La Santé—La Roquette—The Conciergerie—The Mazas—Sainte-Pélagie—Saint-Lazare—Prison Regulations 131 CHAPTER XXI. THE PARIS ZOO. The Jardin des Plantes—Its Origin and History—Under Buffon—The Museum of Natural History—The Tobacco Factory 147 CHAPTER XXII. SOME HISTORICAL BUILDINGS. Abailard and Héloise—Fulbert’s House in the Rue des Chantres—The Philip Augustus Towers—The Hôtel Barbette—The Hôtel de Sens 156 CHAPTER XXIII. THE MONT-DE-PIÉTÉ. “Uncle” and “Aunt”—Organisation of the Mont-de-Piété—Its Various Branches—Its Warehouses and Sale-rooms 160 CHAPTER XXIV. PARIS MARKETS. The Halles-Centrales—The Cattle Markets—Agriculture in France—The French Peasant 166 CHAPTER XXV. SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS. Its Origin and History—Its Library—Its

Organ—Saint-Sulpice 170 CHAPTER XXVI. PRINTING IN PARIS—THE CENSORSHIP. Rue Visconti—Historical Buildings—The National School of Roads and Bridges—The Introduction of Printing into Paris—The First Printing Establishments—The Censorship 174 CHAPTER XXVII. THE HÔTEL DES INVALIDES. A Glance at its History—Louis XIV. and Mme. de Maintenon—The Pensioners—Their Characteristics and Mode of Life 185 CHAPTER XXVIII. SOME MORE PARIS HOSPITALS. The French Hospital System—The Laënnec Hospital—The Houses of Assistance—The Quinze-Vingts—Deaf and Dumb Institutions—The Abbé de l’Épée—La Charité 193 CHAPTER XXIX. LUNATIC ASYLUMS AND MIXED INSTITUTIONS. The Treatment of Lunacy in the Past—La Salpêtrière—Bicêtre—The Story of Latude—The Four Sergeants of La Rochelle—Pinel’s Reforms—Charenton 207 CHAPTER XXX. THE RIVER BIÈVRE AND THE MANUFACTORY OF THE GOBELINS. The Brothers Gobelin—Lebrun—The Gobelins under Louis XIV.—At the Time of the Revolution—The Manufactory of Sèvres 225 CHAPTER XXXI. THE PALAIS BOURBON. The Palais Bourbon—Its History—The National Convention—Philippe Égalité 231 CHAPTER XXXII. SOME HISTORICAL RESIDENCES. The Palace of the Legion of Honour—The Ministry of War—The Rue de Grenelle—Talleyrand 236 CHAPTER XXXIII. THE RUE TARANNE AND DIDEROT. Diderot’s Early Life in Paris—His Love Affairs—Imprisonment in the Château de Vincennes—Diderot and Catherine II. of Russia—His Death 242 CHAPTER XXXIV. MONSEIGNEUR AFFRE AND THE INSURRECTION OF JUNE. The Courtyard of the Dragon—The National Workshops—The Insurrection of June—Monseigneur Affre Shot at the Barricade of the Faubourg St. Antoine 247 CHAPTER XXXV. SOME OCCUPANTS OF MONTPARNASSE. The Boulevard Montparnasse—The Cemetery—Father Loriquet—Hégésippe Moreau—Sainte-Beuve 250 CHAPTER XXXVI. SPORTS AND DIVERSIONS. Le “Sport”—Longchamps—Versailles Races—Fontainebleau—The Seine—Swimming Baths—The Art of Book-collecting 254 CHAPTER XXXVII. FENCING SCHOOLS. Fencing in France—A National Art—Some Extracts from the Writings of M. Legouvé, One of its Chief Exponents—The Old Style of Fencing and the New 257 CHAPTER XXXVIII. PETTY TRADES. Petty Trades—Their Origins—The Day-Banker—The Guardian Angel—The Old-Clothesman—The Claque—Its First Beginning and Development 259 CHAPTER XXXIX. OBSOLETE PARIS SHOPS. The Old Wooden Stalls of Forty Years Ago—The “Lucky Fork”—The Cobbler’ Shops—The Old Cafés 265 CHAPTER XL. THE PARIS PRESS. French Governments and the Press—The Press under Napoleon—Some Account of the Leading Paris Papers—The Figaro 268 CHAPTER XLI. FROM THE QUAI VOLTAIRE TO THE PANTHÉON. The Quai Voltaire—Its Changes of Name—Voltaire—His Life in Paris and Elsewhere—His Remains laid in the Panthéon—Mirabeau—Rousseau—Vincennes 273 CHAPTER XLII. THE PALAIS MAZARIN AND THE RUE MAZARINE. The Institute or Palais Mazarin—The Rue Mazarine—L’Illustre Théâtre—Molière—The Theatre Français—The Odéon—Heine—The Faubourg Saint-Germain—Historical Associations 288 CHAPTER XLIII. THE PARIS RIVER AND PARIS COMMERCE. The Society of the Water-Merchants of Paris—The Navigation of the Seine—The Paris Slaughter-Houses—Records of Famine in France—The Lot of the French Peasant in the Last Century—The Paris Food Supply 307 CHAPTER XLIV. THE BARRIERS—PARISIAN CRIME. The Approaches to Paris—The French Railway System—The St. Germain Railway—The Erection of the Barriers—Some of the most famous Barriers—Parisian Crime—Its Special Characteristics 317 CHAPTER XLV. PARISIAN MENDICANCY—THE PARIS POOR. Parisian Mendicancy in the Sixteenth Century—The General Hospital—Louis XV. and the Beggars—The Revolution—Mendicancy as a Regular Profession—The Organ-grinders and the Trade in Italian Children—The French Treatment of the Poor—Asylums, Almshouses, and Retreats—The Droit des Pauvres—The Cost of the Poor 324 CHAPTER XLVI. VERSAILLES. Derivation of the Name—Saint-Simon’s Description—Louis XIV.—The Grand Fête of July, 1668—Peter the Great and the Regent—Louis XV.—Marie Antoinette and the “Affair of the Necklace”—The Events of October, 1789 338 CHAPTER XLVII. VERSAILLES AND THE SIEGE OF PARIS. The Advance on Paris—Preparations for the Siege—General Trochu—The Francs-Tireurs—The Siege 348 CHAPTER XLVIII. VERSAILLES AND THE COMMUNE. The Communists or Communards—The “Internationale”—Bismarck and the National Guard—The Municipal Elections—The Insurrection—Thiers—Paris during the Commune—Concluding Remarks 355 INDEX: A, B, C, D, E,

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@42647@[email protected]#F" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

[xxxxIllustrations have been moved from within paragraphs for ease of reading.
(note of e-text transcriber.)]

PAGE On the Champs Élysées Frontispiece Outside a Railway Station in Paris 1 Waiting for a Fare 3 Omnibus Coachman 4 Private Coachman 4 Hackney Coachman 5 Hearse Coachman 5 An Invitation to a “Petit Verre” 6 Street Scene 8 In the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne at Night 9 In the Flower Market 13 After the Theatre 16 At the Salon 17 A Fair 21 A Café Chantant 24 Parisian Types—In the Barracks 25 Parisian Types—In Search of Cigar-ends 29 A Paris Omnibus 31 Street Scene 32 Eastern End of Île de la Cité facing 33 Austerlitz Bridge 35 On the Saint-Martin Canal 36 The Solferino Bridge, from the Quai d’Orsay 37 The National Bridge 40 The Right Arm of the Seine from Boulevard Henri IV 41 The College of France 44 The Lycée Voltaire 45 The Lycée Charlemagne 47 The Lycée Condorcet 48 The Court of the Sorbonne 49 Façade of the New Sorbonne 51 The Church of the Sorbonne 52 The Dome of the Panthéon, Spire of St. Étienne du Mont, and Tour de Clovis 57 The Panthéon, from the Luxemburg Gardens 60 Place du Panthéon 61 Well in the Courtyard, Cluny Museum facing 65 Interior of the Panthéon 65 Library of Sainte-Geneviève 68 St. Stephen-of-the-Mount 69 Interior of Church of St. Stephen-of-the-Mount 70 The Chapel of the Ancient College of the Lombards 72 Place Maubert, with the Statue of Étienne Dolet 73 Patrons of the Chateau Rouge 75 Rue de Bièvre 75 Ruins of the Palais des Thermes 76 Entrance to the Cluny Museum, Rue du Sammerard 77 Staircase, Cluny Museum 80 Dormer Windows at the Cluny Museum 81 Group of Shafted Weapons in the Artillery Museum 84 Decorated Spanish Cannon in the Artillery Museum 85 Decorated Muskets in the Artillery Museum 85 The Deaf and Dumb Institution 89 Elm Tree in the Court of Honour at the Deaf and Dumb Institution 92 Statue of the Abbé de l’Épée at the Deaf and Dumb Institution 93 The Val de Grâce from the Rue de la Santé

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@42647@[email protected]#page_096" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">96 View from the Pont de la Concorde facing 97 Entrance to the Observatory 100 The Gardens of the Observatory, Boulevard Arago 101 Place de l’Observatoire 104 School of Drawing, Rue l’École de Médecine 105 Statue of Marshal Ney 105 School of Medicine 107 New Wing of the School of Medicine 107 Hôtel du Cheval Blanc 108 Rue de l’Odéon 109 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie 109 Odéon Theatre 111 The Luxemburg Palace: the Garden Façade 112 The Luxemburg Palace from the Terrace 112 The Senate Chamber 113 Entrance Court, Luxemburg Palace 115 Grand Avenue, Luxemburg Gardens 115 Sculpture Gallery, Luxemburg Palace 116 Salle des Fêtes, Luxemburg Palace 117 The Central Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens 119 Façade of the Ancient Chapel of the Daughters of Calvary, Luxemburg 120 Listening to the Band in the Luxemburg Gardens 121 The Marie de Médicis Grotto and Fountain 124 Back of the Marie de Médicis Fountain 125 Fremiel-Carpeaux Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens 126 The Luxemburg Museum 128 The Hôtel de Sens facing 129 The Mineralogical Museum 129 Prison of La Santé 132 Inside the Walls of La Santé 132 The Common Quarter, La Santé—“The Parlour” 133 Interior of La Santé 135 Gaolers’ Mess-room, La Santé 136 Entrance to La Grande Roquette 137 Warders’ Room and adjoining Courtyard, La Grande Roquette 140 Chapel, La Grande Roquette 141 The Chapel-school, La Petite Roquette 143 The Political Quarter, Sainte-Pélagie 144 The Courtyard, Saint-Lazare 145 Buffon 148 The Carnivora Section, Jardin des Plantes 149 Entrance to Hothouses, Jardin des Plantes 149 Marabout Storks in the Jardin des Plantes 151 The Polar Bear in the Jardin des Plantes 151 The Bear-pit, Jardin des Plantes 152 Dromedary in the Jardin des Plantes 153 Llama in the Jardin des Plantes 155 Rue des Chantres, looking towards Notre-Dame 156 Site of the House of Abailard and Héloise, Rue des Chantres 157 Rue des Chantres, looking towards the Quai 158 Portion of the Façade, Musée Carnavalet 159 The Opera House facing 161 Entrance to the Mont-de-Piété, Chaussée d’Antin 161 The Jewellery Stores, Rue des Blancs Manteaux 163 In the Rue de Capron Branch of the Mont-de-Piété 164 The Sale-room of the Mont-de-Piété, Rue des Blancs Manteaux 165 Rue de Tournon, with the Façade of the Senate House 168 The Saint-Germain Market 169 The Tower of Saint-Germain-des-Prés 171 Saint-Germain-des-Prés 172 The Side Entrance to Saint-Germain-des-Prés 173 The Rue de l’Abbaye 174 Saint-Sulpice and Apsis of Saint-Sulpice 176 Fountain, Place Saint-Sulpice 177 The Garden, School of Fine Arts 180 The Arc de Gaillon, School of Fine

Arts 181 Courtyard, School of Fine Arts 181 A Façade on the Quai Malaquais 182 Street Scene 184 Hôtel des Invalides 185 Dome of the Hôtel des Invalides 186 Dormer Window on the Façade, Hôtel des Invalides 187 The Court of Honour, Hôtel des Invalides 187 Invalides 188 Tomb of Napoleon 189 Entrance to the Tomb of Napoleon 191 Street Scene 192 Latude recognises D’Aligre facing 193 The Laennec Hospital, Rue de Sèvres 193 The Children’s Hospital, Rue de Sèvres 195 The Blind School: in the Work-room 196 Attendants’ Room in a Paris Hospital 197 La Charité 198 Hospital on the Boulevard du Pont Royal 199 Entrance to the St. Louis Hospital 200 Courtyard of the St. Louis Hospital 200 A Ward in the St. Louis Hospital 201 The Repairing Room, St. Louis Hospital 201 The Tenon Hospital 203 Nurse Pupils at the Maternity Hospital 204 The Maternity Hospital 205 Font at the Maternity Hospital 205 Hôspital de la Pitié 206 Façade of the Main Buildings, Salpêtrière 208 The Mazarin Ward, Salpêtrière 209 Place de Conseil, Salpêtrière 212 The Park, Salpêtrière 213 The Village, Salpêtrière 216 The Lunatics’ Quarter, Salpêtrière 217 The Chapel, Salpêtrière 220 The Bicêtre, 1710 (After Gueroult) 221 Dinner-Time at Bicêtre 224 Entrance to Bicêtre 224 The Bièvre facing 225 Avenue des Gobelins 226 The Bièvre in the Gardens of the Gobelins 227 The Old Buildings of the Gobelins 228 In the Gardens of the Gobelins 228 Interior of the Gobelins 229 A Street in the Neighbourhood of the Gobelins 230 Façade of the Chamber of Deputies on Place du Palais Bourbon 232 Chamber of Deputies from the Quai d’Orsay 233 Ruins of the Palace of the Council of State, Quai d’Orsay 237 Palace of the Legion of Honour 238 The Ministry of War 240 Fountain in the Rue de Grenelle 241 Grimm and Diderot 244 Statue of Diderot, Boulevard St.-Germain, facing the Rue St.-Benoit 245 Entrance to the Courtyard of the Dragon 248 Courtyard of the Dragon 249 The Montparnasse Station 253 Second-hand Bookstalls 256 The Bureau de Bienfaisance Asylum at Vincennes: (1) The Façade. (2) The Bowling Green facing 257 Old-Clothes Dealer 260 Le Débarcadère des Bateaux-Omnibus: Vendors of Refreshments 261 Snow Scene 267 Bookstalls on the Quai Voltaire 268 Édmond About 272 The late Albert Wolff, of the Figaro 273 Statue of Voltaire, 277 The Pont du Carrousel and the Louvre, from the Quai Malaquais 280 The Seine, between the City and the Quai des Augustines

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@42647@[email protected]#page_281" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">281 Jean Jacques Rousseau 284 Madame D’Épinay 285 A Night Refuge in the Vaugirard Quarter facing 289 Cardinal Mazarin 289 Entrance to the Hôtel de Chateaubriand, in the Faubourg St. Germain 293 The Bridge, Place, and Boulevard St. Michel 296 The St. Michel Fountain 297 The Castle of Chambord 301 Porte aux Pommes: Fruit-boats on the Seine 304 Porte aux Pommes 305 The Villette Abbatoirs 309 A Seine Steamboat 312 The Seine at Grenelle 313 The Chapelle Saint Denis Barrier 317 The Octroi Barriers of Petit-Château and Grand-Bercy 320 Versailles: the Façade and the Great Fountain facing 321 Tram at the Barrier 321 Street Scene 324 Asylum for Women, Rue Fessart: The Refectory 329 A “Bureau de Bienfaisance” 332 A Night Refuge 333 Pensioners of “L’Assistance Publique” 335, 336 Versailles (from an old print) 341 The Colonnade of Versailles 344 The Gallery of Battles, Versailles 345 General Trochu 349 Map of the Fortifications at the Siege of Paris 352 The Prussians Entering Paris facing 353 Prince Bismarck 355 M. Thiers 357 Marshal MacMahon 360