Stage-coach and Tavern Days
Travel in the South in the Thirties.
Frontispiece.
STAGE-COACH AND
TAVERN DAYS
By ALICE MORSE EARLE
Author of Home Life in Colonial Days, Child Life in
Colonial Days, and other Social and Domestic
Histories of Colonial Times
“Long ago, at the end of the route,
The stage pulled up, and the folks stepped out.
They have all passed under the tavern door—
The youth and his bride and the gray three-score.
Their eyes were weary with dust and gleam,
The day had gone like an empty dream.
Soft may they slumber, and trouble no more
For their eager journey, its jolt and roar,
In the old coach over the mountain.”
NEW YORK
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd.
1900
All rights reserved
Copyright, 1900,
By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.
Norwood Press
J. S. Cushing & Co.—Berwick & Smith
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.
TO MY HUSBAND
HENRY EARLE
Contents
Chapter Page I. The Puritan Ordinary 1 II. Old-time Taverns 30 III. The Tavern Landlord 62 IV. Tavern Fare and Tavern Ways 76 V. Kill-devil and its Affines 100 VI. Small Drink 121 VII. Signs and Symbols 138 VIII. The Tavern in War 170 IX. The Tavern Panorama 194 X. From Path to Turnpike 223 XI. Packhorse and Conestoga Wagon 241 XII. Early Stage-coaches and Other Vehicles 253 XIII. Two Stage Veterans of Massachusetts 291 XIV. A Staging Centre 308 XV. The Stage-driver
List of Illustrations
Travel in the South in the Thirties.From painting by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. Frontispiece Page Ordinary at Duxbury, Mass. 3 Taproom Furnishings of an Old Ordinary.
Owned by Miss Elizabeth Nicholson, Providence, R. I. 7 Oldest House in Easton, Mass.; once an Ordinary 10 Leather Black-jack 14 Tavern Bill against East Church, Salem, Mass.
Owned by Essex Institute 16 Taproom of Wayside Inn, Sudbury, Mass. 19 Buckman Tavern, 1690, Lexington, Mass. 23 Hound-handle Tavern Pitcher 26 Sign-board of Hayden Tavern, Essex, Conn.
Owned by Connecticut Historical Society 28 Indian Queen Tavern, Bladensburg, Md.
From painting by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. facing 32 Old Road House, Md. 34 Plate, City Hotel, N. Y., Staffordshire Ware 38 Cato’s House, N. Y. From an old print 41 Washington Tavern, Westfield, Mass. 43 Door Latch, Washington Tavern, Westfield, Mass. 45 Wadsworth Inn, Hartford, Conn.
Photographed by Mr. George C. Atwell, Hartford, Conn. 47 Taproom, Wadsworth Inn, Hartford, Conn. 51 Fountain Inn, Medford, Mass. 54 Sign-board of N. Mowry’s Inn, Lime Rock, R. I.
Owned by Miss Elizabeth Nicholson, Providence, R. I. 57 Pine-tree Tavern and Eagle Tavern, East Poultney, Vt.
Owned by Essex Institute 63 Sign-board of Hays’ Tavern, West Brattleboro, Vt. 65 Cooper Tavern, Arlington, Mass. 68 Travellers’ Rest, Shelbyville, Ky., 1783 71 Miller’s Tavern, Lancaster, Penn. 73 Ellery Tavern, front, Gloucester, Mass. 79 Ellery Tavern, lean-to, Gloucester, Mass. 83 Bill of Cromwell’s Head Tavern, Boston, Mass.
Owned by Mrs. H. M. Hunt, Kingston, R. I. facing 86 Bill of Fare of City Hotel, Hartford, Conn.
Owned by Mr. George F. Ives, Danbury, Conn. 89 Platter, Mendenhall Ferry and Tavern, Schuylkill River, Penn.
Owned by Miss Frances C. Morse, Worcester, Mass. 93 Collin’s Tavern, Naugatuck, Conn.
Photographed by Mr. George C. Atwell, Hartford, Conn. 97 Old Rum Bottles 102 Burgoyne Tavern, Westfield, Mass. 106 Tavern Pitcher, Happy Farmer, Crouch Ware 109 Flip Glasses, Loggerhead and Toddy Stick.
Owned by Pocumtuck Valley Historical Association 110 Porcelain Monteith Bowl, 1700 115 Punch Bowl, bearing Insignia of Order of the Cincinnati, Chinese Ware 117 Sign-board of Amherst Hotel, Amherst, Mass.
From History of Amherst 123 Eagle Tavern and Sign-board, Newton, N. H. 126 Cider Pitcher and Cups, Copper Lustre Ware 129 Parsons’ Tavern, Springfield, Mass. 131 Toby Fillpots, Staffordshire Ware.
Owned by Miss Frances C. Morse, Worcester, Mass. 134 Flip Glasses and Nutmeg Holders.
Owned by Miss Frances C. Morse, Worcester, Mass. 136 Sign-board, Stratton Tavern, Northfield Farms, Mass.
Owned by Pocumtuck Valley Historical Association 140 Sign-board, Three Crowns Tavern, Salisbury, Lancaster County, Penn.
Painted by Benjamin West 143 Browne’s Hall, Danvers, Mass. 145 Hat Tavern and Sign-board, Leacock Township, Lancaster County, Penn.
Sign-board painted by Benjamin West
Owned by Miss Emma B. King, Indianapolis, Ind. 151 Sign-board, Reverse Side, Bissell’s Tavern, East Windsor, Conn.
Owned by Miss Emma B. King, Indianapolis, Ind. 153 Sign-board of William Pitt Tavern, Lancaster, Penn. 156 Sign-board, Doolittle Tavern 158 Sign-board, “A Man loaded with Mischief,” London, Eng.
Painted by Hogarth facing 160 Sign-board of Walker’s Tavern, Charlestown, N. H.
Owned by Worcester Society of Antiquity 162 Drawing for Ames Sign-board, Dedham, Mass. 165 Buck Horn Tavern, N. Y., 1812. From an old print 168 Old North Bridge, Concord, Mass. facing 172 Boston Liberty Tree and Tavern. From an old print 174 Stavers Inn, Portsmouth, N. H. 176 Handbill of Wolfe Tavern, Newburyport, Mass. facing 178 Sign-board of Wolfe Tavern, Newburyport, Mass. 180 Hancock Tavern, Boston, Mass. 182 Sam Fraunces. From original drawing.
Owned by Mrs. A. Livingstone Mason, Newport, R. I. 184 Green Dragon Tavern, Boston, Mass.
From an old print 187 Conkey Tavern, Pelham, Mass.
From History of Pelham facing 188 Sign-board of Conkey Tavern.
From History of Pelham 190 Naval Pitcher, Liverpool Ware 192 Washington Tavern, North Wilbraham, Mass. 196 Black Horse Tavern, Salem, Mass. 199 Sign-board, Stickney Tavern, Concord, N. H.
Owned by New Hampshire Historical Society 203 Sign-board of Keeler’s Tavern, Ridgefield, Conn. 205 Plate, Nahant Hotel, Staffordshire Ware 206 Sign-board of Wolfe Tavern, Brooklyn, Conn.
Owned by Connecticut Historical Society 211 Postlethwaite’s Tavern, Lancaster County, Penn. 214 Sign-board of Pembroke Tavern, Plymouth Turnpike, Mass.
Owned by Bostonian Society
Painted by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. facing 226 Old Chain Bridge, Newburyport, Mass. facing 230 Bridge Toll-board.
Owned by Mr. A. G. Richmond, Canajoharie, N. Y. 233 Megunticook Turnpike 235 Advertisement of Mail-stage 236 Bridge Sign-board.
Owned by Bucks County Historical Society 239 A Wayside Friend, North Conway, N. H.
From photograph by T. E. M. and G. H. White facing 242 Conestoga Wagon.
Photographed from an old wagon facing 246 Stage Wagons.
From print in an old English story book 251 English Coach, 1747.
From a painting by Hogarth 254 Quicksilver Royal Mail, 1835, London, Eng.
From an old print facing 256 “One Hoss Shay” facing 258 “Washington” Chariot.
Owned by Misses Francis, Spring Green Farm, Warwick, R. I. 259 Advertisement of Stage Lines.
From first issue of New York Commercial Advertiser, 1797 261 Stage-coach of 1818.
From an old print 264 Stage-coach of 1828.
From an old print 265 Concord Coach, built in 1863.
Owned by “Buffalo Bill” 266 Concord Coach at Toll-gate.
From photograph owned by Major Lewis Downing, Jr., Concord, N. H. facing 268 Advertisement of Pioneer Line Stage-coaches 270 The Omnibus “Accommodation” between Springfield and Chicopee Falls, 1843 273 Notice of Post-rider, 1799 276 Old Mail-coach and Sign-board, Barre, Mass., 1840 280 Pitcher, Quincy Railway, Staffordshire Ware 284 Veazie Railway, Bangor, Me. From an old print 286 The Arrival of the Train.
From a painting by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. facing 288 Uncle Ame Morris’s Oxen serving as
From an old print 289 Pease Tavern, Shrewsbury, Mass. 292 Old Arcade, Shrewsbury, Mass. 294 Harrington Tavern, Shrewsbury, Mass. 299 Balch Tavern, Shrewsbury, Mass. 301 Advertisement of Ginery Twichell’s Stage Lines.
Owned by American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Mass. facing 304 Ginery Twichell’s Ride.
From drawing owned by Mr. Frederick A. Currier, Fitchburg, Mass. 306 Sign-board of Tarleton Inn, Piermont, Cohos Turnpike, N. H.
Owned by Mr. Amos Tarleton, Haverhill, N. H. 310 Sign-board, Reverse, of Tarleton Inn, Piermont, N. H.
Owned by Mr. Amos Tarleton, Haverhill, N. H. 312 Bliss’s Tavern, Haverhill, N. H. 314 Old Sleigh with Double Dashboard 316 Old Passenger Pung 318 Relay House, Dorchester, Mass. 321 The Relay.
From painting by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. facing 324 View of Middletown, Conn. From an old print 327 Deerhide and Pigskin Trunks 331 Old Carpet Bag.
Owned by Mrs. Voice Adams Beecher, Brooklyn, N. Y. 333 Sign-board of David Reed’s Tavern, Bedford, Mass.
Owned by Concord Antiquarian Society 337 Midsummer along the Pike facing 344 A Vista of White Birches 346 The Hollyhock’s Promise 348 The Cool Depths of the Pine Woods.
From photograph by T. E. M. and G. H. White facing 348 Taylor’s Tavern, 1777, Danbury, Conn. 350 M. M. Taylor’s Milestone, Danbury, Conn. 351 Peleg Arnold’s Milestone, Woonsocket, R. I.
From photograph by Mr. Edward Field, Providence, R. I. 352 The Watering Trough 355 Topsfield Bridge, 1760. Ipswich River, Mass. 357 The Shadowy Water under the Arches.
From photograph by T. E. M. and G. H. White facing
From photograph by Mr. Edward Field, Providence, R. I. 364 Advertisements of Carriages and Wagons.
From Connecticut Journal, July 3, 1815 facing 368 A Wet Start at Daybreak.
From a painting by Edward Lamson Henry, N.A. facing 370 The Wayside Inn, Sudbury, Mass. facing 372 Sign-board, Perkins Inn, Hopkinton, N. H.
Owned by Mr. E. R. Guerin, Hopkinton, N. H. 375 Russel Tavern, Arlington, Mass. 379 Sign-board of Gifford’s Tavern, Barrington, R. I.
Owned by Mrs. Gifford, Bristol, R. I. 381 Sign-board of Wells Tavern, Greenfield Meadows, Mass.
Owned by Pocumtuck Valley Historical Association 382 Mattapan Tavern, Relay House 389 Wilde Tavern, Milton, Mass., 1770 391 Ashburnham Thief Detecting Society. Handbill Heading 393 Sign-board of Humphrey Williams Tavern, Centrebrook, Conn.
Owned by Mr. George F. Ives, Danbury, Conn. 396 Sign-board, Reverse, of Humphrey Williams Tavern, Centrebrook, Conn.
Owned by Mr. George F. Ives, Danbury, Conn. 400 Poor Tavern and Sign-board, Newburyport, Mass. 405 Monroe Tavern, Lexington, Mass. facing 406 Sign-board, Dewey Tavern 411 Sign-board, Cutter’s Tavern, Jaffray, N. H.
Owned by Mrs. Anna Cutter Roberts, Roxbury, Mass. 412 Banjo Clock, with Painting of Pahquoique House on Glass Door.
Owned by Mr. George F. Ives, Danbury, Conn. 414 Wright Tavern, Concord, Mass. 417 Sign-board of Moses Hill’s Inn, Douglas, Mass. 419 Sign-board of John Nash’s Tavern, Amherst, Mass.
From History of Amherst 421 Montague City Tavern 425 Old Abbey, Bloomingdale Road, New York 428 After the Shower.
From painting by Edward Lamson Henry, N. A. facing 430 Tavern Pitcher, Apotheosis of Washington. Liverpool Ware
Stage-coach and Tavern Days
CHAPTER I
THE PURITAN ORDINARY
In reverent and affectionate retrospective view of the influences and conditions which had power and made mark upon the settlement of New England, we are apt to affirm with earnest sentiment that religion was the one force, the one aim, the one thought, of the lives of our forbears. It was indeed an ever present thought and influence in their lives; but they possessed another trait which is as evident in their records as their piety, and which adds an element of human interest to their story which their stern Puritanism never could have done; with them their neighborliness, was as ever present and as sincere as their godliness. Hence the establishment of an hostelry,—an ordinary it was usually called,—for the entertainment of travellers and for the mutual comfort of the settlers, was scarcely second to their providing a gathering-place for the church.
The General Court of Massachusetts at an early date took decisive measures with regard to houses of common entertainment. No one was permitted to keep without license “a common victuallyng house,” under a penalty of twenty shillings a week. Soon the power of granting licenses was transferred to the County Courts, as the constant increase in the number of ordinaries made too constant detailed work for so important a body as the General Court.
Consideration for the welfare of travellers, and a desire to regulate the sale of intoxicating liquors, seemed to the magistrates important enough reasons not only to counsel but to enforce the opening of some kind of a public house in each community, and in 1656 the General Court of Massachusetts made towns liable to a fine for not sustaining an ordinary. Towns were fined and admonished for not conforming to this law; Concord, Massachusetts, was one of the number. The Colonial Records of Connecticut, in 1644, ordered “one sufficient inhabitant” in each town to keep an ordinary, since “strangers were straitened” for want of entertainment. A frequent and natural choice of location for establishing an ordinary was at a ferry. Tristram Coffyn kept both ferry and ordinary at Newbury, Massachusetts; there was an ordinary at Beverly Ferry, known until 1819 as the “Old Ferry Tavern.”
Great inducements were offered to persons to keep an ordinary; sometimes land was granted them, or pasturage for their cattle, or exemption from church rates and school taxes. In 1682, Hugh March, of Newbury, Massachusetts, petitioned for a renewal of his license to keep an ordinary, saying thus: “The town of Newbury, some years since, were destitute of an ordinary, and could not persuade any person to keep it. For want of an ordinary they were twice fined by the county, and would have been a third time had I not undertaken it.” In 1668 the town had persuaded one Captain White to “undertake an ordinary” on high moral grounds; and it is painful to record that, though he did so unwillingly, he found the occupation so profitable that he finally got into disgrace through it.