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Title: The Book of Cheese

Author: Charles Thom and Walter Warner Fisk

Release Date: July 25, 2012 [eBook #40318]

Language: English

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THE BOOK OF CHEESE

THE BOOK OF CHEESE

BY

CHARLES THOM
INVESTIGATOR IN CHEESE, FORMERLY AT CONNECTICUT
AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE

AND

WALTER W. FISK
ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF DAIRY INDUSTRY (CHEESE-MAKING),
NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY

 

 

 

New York
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1918
All rights reserved

Copyright, 1918,
By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.
Set up and electrotyped. Published July, 1918.


Norwood Press
J. S. Cushing Co.—Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.

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PREFACE

Certain products we associate with the manufactures of the household, so familiar and of such long standing that we do not think of them as requiring investigation or any special support of science. The older ones of us look back on cheese as an ancient home product; yet the old-fashioned hard strong kind has given place to many named varieties, some of them bearing little resemblance to the product of the kitchen and the buttery. We have analyzed the processes; discovered microorganisms that hinder or help; perfected devices and machines; devised tests of many kinds; studied the chemistry; developed markets for standardized commodities. Here is one of the old established farm industries that within a generation has passed from the housewife and the home-made hand press to highly perfected factory processes employing skilled service and handling milk by the many tons from whole communities of cows. This is an example of the great changes in agricultural practice. Cheese-making is now a piece of applied science; many students in the colleges are studying the subject; no one would think of undertaking it in the old way: for these reasons this book is written.

This book is intended as a guide in the interpretation of the processes of making and handling a series of important varieties of cheese. The kinds here considered are those made commercially in America, or so widely met in the trade that some knowledge of them is necessary. The relation of cheese to milk and to its production and composition has been presented in so far as required for this purpose. The principles and practices underlying all cheese-making have been brought together into a chapter on curd-making. A chapter on classification then brings together into synoptical form our knowledge of groups of varieties. These groups are then discussed separately. The problems of factory building, factory organization, buying and testing milk, and the proper marketing of cheese, are briefly discussed.

Such a discussion should be useful to the student, to the beginner in cheese-making, as a reference book on many varieties in the hands of makers who specialize in single varieties, and to the housekeeper or teacher of domestic science. The material has

been brought together from the experience of the writers, supplemented by free use of the literature in several languages. Standard references to this literature are added in the text.

No introduction to the subject of cheese should fail to mention the work of J. H. Monrad, who has recently passed away. Mr. Monrad never collected his material into a single publication, but his contributions to chees-emaking information, scattered widely in trade literature over a period of thirty years, form an encyclopedia of the subject.

Bulletins of the Agricultural Experiment Stations and United States Department of Agriculture have been quoted extensively, with citation of the sources of the material. Personal assistance from Professor W. A. Stocking and other members of the Dairy Department of Cornell University, and C. F. Doane of the United States Department of Agriculture, is gladly acknowledged.

Students cannot learn out of books to make cheese. They may, however, be aided in understanding the problems from such study. To make cheese successfully they must have intimate personal touch with some person who knows cheese. Sympathetic relations with such a teacher day by day in the cheese-room are essential to success in making cheese which, at its best, is one of the most attractive of food-products.

The Authors.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER I   PAGES General Statement on Cheese 1-4   Nature of cheese, 1; Cheese-making as an art, 2; Cheese-making as a science, 3; Problems in cheese-making, 4; History, 5.   CHAPTER II The Milk in Its Relation To Cheese 5-28   Factors affecting the quality, 6; Chemical composition, 7; Factors causing variation in composition, 8; Milk constituents, 9; Water, 10; Fat, 11 Casein, 12; Milk-sugar, 13; Albumin, 14; Ash, 15 Enzymes, 16; The flavor of feeds eaten by the cow, 17; Absorption of odors, 18; Effect of condition of the cow, 19; Bacteria in the milk, 20; Groups of bacteria in milk, 21; Acid fermentation of milk, 22 Bacterium lactis-acidi group, 23; Colon-aërogenes group, 24; Acid peptonizing group, 25; Bacillus bulgaricus group, 26; Acid cocci or weak acid-producers, 27; Peptonizing organisms, 28; Inert types, 29; Alkali-producing bacteria, 30; Butyric fermenting types, 31; Molds and yeasts, 32; Bacterial contamination of milk, 33; Germicidal effect of

milk, 34; Sources and control of bacteria in milk, 35; The cow, 36; Stable air, 37; The milker, 38; Utensils, 39 The factory, 40; The control of bacteria, 41; Fermentation test, 42; The sediment test, 43.   CHAPTER III Coagulating Materials 29-40   Ferments, 44; Nature of rennet, 45; Preparation of rennet extract, 46; Pepsin, 47; Chemistry of curdling, 48; Use of acid, 49; Robertson's theory, 50; Rennet curd, 51; Hammarsten's theory, 52 Duclaux theory, 53; Bang's theory, 54; Bosworth's theory, 55.   CHAPTER IV Lactic Starters 41-54   Acidifying organisms, 56; Starter, 57; Natural starter, 58; Commercial starter or pure cultures, 59; Manufacturer's directions, 60; Selecting milk, 61; Pasteurization, 62; Containers, 63; Adding cultures, 64; Cleanliness, 65; "Mother" starter or startoline, 66; Examining starter, 67; Second day's propagation, 68; Preparations of larger amount of starter, 69; Amount of mother starter to use, 70 Qualities, 71; How to carry the mother starter, 72 Starter score-cards, 73; Use of starter, 74; The amount of starter to use, 75; Starter lot-card, 76.  

colspan="3">CHAPTER V Curd-making 55-80   The composition of the milk, 77; Cheese color, 78 The acidity factor, 79; Acidity of milk when received, 80; The acid test, 81; Rennet tests, 82; Marschall rennet test, 83; Comparison of acid and rennet test, 84; Control of acid, 85; Acidity and rennet action, 86; Acidity and expulsion of the whey, 87 Acidity in relation to cheese flavor, 88; Acidity in relation to body and texture of cheese, 89; Acidity in relation to cheese color, 90; Control of moisture, 91; Relation of moisture to manufacture and quality, 92; Relation of moisture to acidity, 93 Setting temperature, 94; Strength of coagulating materials, 95; Amount of coagulating materials to use, 96; Method of adding rennet, 97; The curdling period, 98; Cutting or breaking the curd, 99; Curd knives, 100; Heating or "cooking," 101; Draining, 102; Application to cheese, 103.   CHAPTER VI Classification 81-88   Basis of classification, 104; Processed cheeses, 105; Whey cheeses, 106; Soft and hard cheeses, 107 Relation of moisture to classes, 108; Relation of heat to classes, 109.   CHAPTER VII Cheeses With Sour-milk Flavor 89-110   Skim series, 110; Cottage cheese, 111; Household practice, 112; Factory practice, 113; Buttermilk cheese, 114; Neufchâtel group, 115; Domestic or American Neufchâtel cheeses, 116;

The factory, 117; Cans, 118; Draining racks, 119; Cloths, 120 Molding machinery, 121; Milk for Neufchâtel, 122 Starter, 123; Renneting or setting, 124; Draining, 125; Cooling Neufchâtel, 126; Pressing, 127 Working and salting Neufchâtel, 128; Storage, 129 Molding, 130; Skimmed-milk Neufchâtel, 131 Baker's cheese, 132; Domestic Neufchâtel, 133 Partially skim Neufchâtel, 134; Cream cheese, 135 Neufchâtel specialties, 136; Gervais, 137; European forms occasionally imported, 138.   CHAPTER VIII Soft Cheeses Ripened by Mold 111-133   Hand cheese and its allies, 139; Pennsylvania pot cheese, 140; Appetitost (Appetite cheese), 141 Ripened Neufchâtel, French process, 142; The Camembert group, 143; Camembert cheese, 144 Description of Camembert, 145; Conditions of making and ripening, 146; Outline of making process, 147; Acidity, 148; Ripening the cheese, 149 Composition, 150; Factory, 151; Economic factors, 152; French Brie, 153; Coulommiers, 154.   CHAPTER IX Soft Cheeses Ripened by Bacteria 134-148   The Isigny group, 155; Raffiné, 156; Liederkranz cheese, 157; Limburger cheese, 158; The milk,

tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">159; Making the cheese, 160; Draining and salting, 161; Ripening, 162; Marketing and qualities of Limburger, 163; Yield and composition of Limburger, 164; Münster cheese, 165.   CHAPTER X Semi-hard Cheeses 149-171   The green mold group, 166; Roquefort cheese, 167; Cow's milk or Façons Roquefort, 168; Outline of making Roquefort, 169; Ripening of Roquefort, 170; Gorgonzola, 171; Stilton cheese, 172; Gex, 173; Bacterially-ripened series, 174; Brick cheese, 175; Making of brick cheese, 176; Ripening brick cheese, 177; Qualities of brick cheese, 178; Composition and yield, 179; Port du Salut cheese, 180.   CHAPTER XI The Hard Cheeses 172-183   The Danish group, 181; The Dutch group, 182 Edam cheese, 183; Method of manufacture, 184 Salting and curing Edam, 185; Equipment for making Edam cheese, 186; Qualities and yield of Edam cheese, 187; Gouda cheese, 188; Method of manufacture, 189; Equipment for Gouda cheese, 190; Composition and yield, 191.   CHAPTER XII Cheddar Cheese-making 184-221   The lot-card, 192; The milk, 193; Ripening the milk, 194; Setting or coagulating, 195; Cutting, 196; Heating or "cooking" the curd, 197; Removing the whey, 198; Hot-iron test, 199;

Firmness of the curd, 200; Gathering the curd together, 201; Matting or cheddaring, 202; Milling the curd, 203 Salting, 204; Hooping the curd, 205; Pressing the curd, 206; Dressing the cheese, 207; Handling over-ripe and gassy milk, 208; Qualities of Cheddar cheese, 209.   CHAPTER XIII Composition and Yield of Cheddar Cheese 222-246   Composition of milk, whey and cheese, 210 Relations of fat to casein in normal milk, 211 Influence of fat in milk on yield of cheese, 212; Fat loss in cheese-making, 213; Effect of bacterial-content of milk on yield of cheese, 214; Factors affecting the moisture-content of Cheddar, 215 Variations of the Cheddar process, 216; Cheddar-type cheese from pasteurized milk, 217; Club cheese, 218; The stirred-curd or granular process, 219 California Jack cheese, 220; The washed-curd process, 221; English dairy cheese, 222; Pineapple cheese, 223; Leyden, 224; Cheddar cheese with pimientos, 225; Sage cheese, 226; Skimmed-milk cheese, 227; Full skimmed-milk Cheddar cheese, 228; Half skimmed-milk Cheddar cheese, 229 Yield and qualities of skimmed-milk Cheddar cheese, 230.   CHAPTER XIV Cheddar Cheese Ripening 247-275   Fat, 231; Milk-sugar, 232; The salts, 233 Gases, 234; Casein or proteins, 235; Causes of ripening changes, 236; Action of the rennet extract, 237; The action of the bacteria, 238; Conditions affecting the rate of cheese ripening, 239; The length of time,

tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">240; The temperature of the curing-room, 241; Moisture-content of the cheese, 242; The size of the cheese, 243; The amount of salt used, 244 The amount of rennet extract, 245; The influence of acid, 246; Care of the cheese in the curing-room, 247; Evaporation of moisture from the cheese during ripening, 248; Paraffining, 249; Shipping, 250. Defects in Cheddar cheese: Defects in flavor, 251; Feedy flavors, 252; Acid flavors, 253; Sweet or fruity flavors, 254; Defects in body and texture, 255; Loose or open texture, 256; Dry body, 257 Gassy textured cheese, 258; Acidy, pasty or soft body and texture, 259; Defects in color, 260 Defects in finish, 261. Cheddar cheese judging: Securing the sample, 262; How to determine quality, 263; Causes of variations in score, 264; The score-card, 265.   CHAPTER XV The Swiss and Italian Groups 276-292   Swiss cheese: The Swiss factory, 266; The milk, 267; Rennet extract, 268; Starter, 269; The making process, 270; Curing Swiss, 271; Block Swiss, 272 Shipment, 273; Qualities of Swiss cheese, 274 Composition and yield, 275; The Italian group: Parmesan, 276; Regianito, 277.   CHAPTER XVI Miscellaneous Varieties and By-products 293-296   Caciocavallo, 278; Sap sago, 279; Albumin cheese, 280; Mysost, Norwegian whey cheese, 281 Whey butter,

href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@40318@[email protected]#p282" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">282.   CHAPTER XVII Cheese Factory Construction, Equipment, Organization 297-310   Locating the site, 283; The building, 284; Heating plant, 285; Curing-rooms, 286; Light, 287 Ventilation, 288; Boiler-room, 289; whey tanks, 290; Store-room, 291; The floors, 292; Arrangement of machinery and rooms, 293; Arrangements for cleanliness, 294; Equipment and supplies list, 295 Factory organization, 296.   CHAPTER XVIII History and Development of the Cheese Industry in America 311-326   The factory system, 297; Introduction of factory system in Canada, 298; Introduction of cheddaring, 299; Introduction of Swiss and Limburger, 300 Number and distribution of cheese factories, 301 Total production of cheese in the United States, 302; Rank of the leading cheese-producing states, 303; Exportation and importation of cheese by the United States, 304; Average yearly price of cheese, 305; Canadian cheese statistics, 306; Introduction of cheese-making into new regions, 307.   CHAPTER XIX Testing 327-342   The fat test, 308; Sampling the milk, 309; Adding the acid, 310; Centrifuging, 311; Reading the test, 312; testing whey for fat, 313; testing cheese for fat, 314; Reading the test, 315; The Hart casein test, 316; Solids in the milk, 317; the lactometer, 318; Calculating the solids not fat in the milk, 319 Testing cheese for moisture,

class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">320.   CHAPTER XX Marketing 343-361   Buying milk, 321; Cheese yield basis of buying milk, 322; Fat basis for payment of milk, 323 Weight basis or pooling method for payment of milk, 324; Fat-plus-two method for payment of milk, 325; Comparison of methods, 326; Laws governing the production and sale of milk, 327 Marketing of cheese, 328; Mercantile exchanges, 329; Marketing perishable varieties, 330; Distribution of price, 331; Standards, 332; Laws relating to cheese marketing, 333.   CHAPTER XXI Cheese in the Household 362-381   Food value of cheese, 334; Digestibility of cheese, 335; Cheese flavor, 336; Relation to health, 337 Cheese poisoning, 338; Proper place in the diet, 339; Care of cheese, 340; Food value and price, 341; Methods and recipes for using cheese, 342.  

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