THROUGH THE HEART
OF PATAGONIA
Tehuelche Hunting Scene
Photochromogravure, Lyons & London.
THROUGH THE HEART
OF PATAGONIA
BY
H. HESKETH PRICHARD
F.R.G.S., F.Z.S.
FELLOW OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE; AUTHOR OF
"WHERE BLACK RULES WHITE: A JOURNEY
ACROSS AND ABOUT HAYTI"
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DRAWINGS IN COLOUR AND BLACK AND WHITE BY
JOHN GUILLE MILLAIS, F.Z.S.
AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
NEW YORK
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
1902
PRINTED IN ENGLAND
This Edition is for sale in the United
States of America only, and is
not to be imported into countries
signatory to the Berne Treaty
TO
C. ARTHUR PEARSON
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE Introduction xiii I. Patagonia 1 II. Southward Ho! 15 III. The Battle of the Horses 33 IV. The Battle of the Horses (continued) 50 V. The River Valleys 67 VI. Manners and Customs of the Tehuelches 85 VII. Tehuelche Methods of Hunting 104 VIII. The Kingdom of the Winds 116 IX. Round and About Lake Buenos Aires 130 X. The Gorge of the River de los Antiguos 144 XI. Some Hunting Camps 156 XII. Back to Civilisation 167 XIII. Journey to Lake Argentino 181 XIV. The Downstream Navigation of the River Leona 196 XV. A Hard Struggle 211 XVI. Wild Cattle 224 XVII. On the First Attitude of Wild Animals towards Man 235 XVIII. The Larger Mammals of Patagonia 247 XIX. First Passing through Hellgate 261 XX. Discovery of River Katarina and Lake Pearson 277 XXI. Homeward 287 A Few Words about the Future of Patagonia 294 Appendix ALIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS Tehuelche Hunting Scene (In Colour) Frontispiece Facing p Outfitting in a Patagonian Store 22 The first guanaco 26 A daughter of the Toldos 80 A New Cure for the Measles (In Colour) 86 A Tehuelche cacique 90 A Tehuelche matron, showing hare-lip 94 Children of the Toldos 98 Tehuelche matrons 100 A Tehuelche beauty 102 Boleadores 104 Sons of the Pampas 110 The Tehuelche Toldos 114 Onas stalking guanaco 120 Store-clad Indians 124 Tehuelche spying guanaco (In Colour) 132 Best head of Huemul (Xenelaphus bisulcus) Shot by the author 146 Rest-and-be-Thankful Camp 150 Huemul in summer coat (In Colour) 152 Descending the Barranca 158 Guanacos descending a hillside (Photogravure)INTRODUCTION
Patagonia is a country about which little is known to the world in general, books dealing with it being few and far between, while the aspect of that quaint tail of South America and its wild denizens has practically never before been pictorially brought under the eye of the public. The following pages have been written with the idea of familiarising my readers with the conditions of life in Patagonia, and of reproducing as strongly as possible the impressions we gathered during our journey through regions most interesting and varied, and, as regards a certain portion of them, hitherto unvisited and unexplored.
The original motive with which these travels were undertaken lay in a suggestion that a couple of years ago created a considerable stir amongst many besides scientific people, namely, that the prehistoric Mylodon might possibly still survive hidden in the depths of the forests of the Southern Andes. In a lecture delivered on June 21, 1900, before the Zoological Society, Professor E. Ray Lancaster, the Director of the British Museum of Natural History, said: "It is quite possible—I don't want to say more than that—that he (the Mylodon) still exists in some of the mountainous regions of Patagonia." Mr. Pearson, the proprietor of the Daily Express, most generously financed the Expedition in the interests of science, and entrusted me with the task of sifting all the evidence for or against the chances of survival obtainable on the spot.
During the whole time I spent in Patagonia I came upon no single scrap of evidence of any kind which would support the idea of the survival of the Mylodon. I hoped to have found the Indian legends of some interest in this connection, and I took the utmost pains to sift most thoroughly all stories and rumours that could by any means be supposed to refer to any unknown animal. Of this part of the subject I have given a full account elsewhere.
There then remained to us but one thing more to do, and that was to examine as far as we could—I will not say the forests of the Andes, for they are primeval forests, dense and heavily grown, and, moreover, cover hundreds of square miles of unexplored country—but the nature of these forests, so as to be able to come to some conclusion on the point under discussion. This we did, with the result that I personally became convinced—and my opinion was shared by my companions—that the Mylodon does not survive in the depths of the Andean forests. For there is a singular absence of animal life in the forests. The deeper we penetrated, the less we found. It is a well-known fact that, where the larger forms of animal life exist, a number of the lesser creatures are to be found co-existing with them, the conditions favouring the life of the former equally conducing to the welfare of the latter. Our observation of the forests therefore led us to conclude that no animal such as the Mylodon is at all likely to be existing among them. This is presumptive evidence, but it is strong, being based on deductions not drawn from a single instance but from general experience.
Still I would not offer my opinion as an ultimate answer to the problem. In addition to the regions visited by our Expedition, there are, as I have said, hundreds and hundreds of square miles about, and on both sides of the Andes, still unpenetrated by man. A large portion of this country is forested, and it would be presumptuous to say that in some hidden valley far beyond the present ken of man some prehistoric animal may not still exist. Patagonia is, however, not only vast, but so full of natural difficulties, that I believe the exhaustive penetration of its recesses will be the work not of one man or of one party of men, but the result of the slow progress of human advance into these regions.
I have recorded some of my observations upon the habits of Patagonian game, and have written somewhat fully upon that most interesting race, the Tehuelche Indians, but I have abstained from very lengthy appendices, for these would be of purely scientific interest.
It is my hope to be able to return to Patagonia and to go further into the many interesting subjects to which my attention was drawn. In any book that may result from this second journey, I look forward to including lists of various zoological, palæontological, and botanical collections, all the materials for which have not at the moment of writing arrived in England.
I would very cordially acknowledge the unfailing help which Dr. F. P. Moreno has accorded to me in every way, and would specially thank him for the photographs and maps he has allowed me to use in the following pages. My thanks are also due to Dr. A. Smith Woodward, F.R.S., for his kind permission to reproduce his description of the Mylodon skin and other remains discovered at Consuelo Cove by Dr. Moreno; to Dr. Moreno for permitting me to reprint his account of that interesting discovery, and to Mr. Oldfield Thomas, F.R.S., for allowing me to make use of his description of Felis concolor pearsoni, the new sub-species of puma which we brought back. I further offer my acknowledgments to the Zoological Society, in whose "Proceedings" the two first-mentioned papers originally appeared.
My best thanks are also due to the Royal Geographical Society, who lent us instruments and gave us every aid in their power, and also to Dr. Rendle and Mr. James Britten, of the Botanical Department of the British Museum, for their kindness in preparing a botanical appendix.
I must record my indebtedness to Mr. John Guille Millais for the pains he took with his illustrations for this
My thanks are also due to Mr. Edward Hawes, who kindly overlooked the proofs of this book to correct the spelling of the Camp-Spanish. And I would add the name of Mr. Frank A. Juckes, who saw to the outfitting of a medicine-chest.
I would not omit grateful mention of Señor Garcia Merou, the late Minister of Agriculture of the Argentine Republic, of the late Señor Rivadavia, the then Minister of Marine, to Señor Josué Moreno, to Messrs. Krabbé and Higgins; also to Mr. Ernest Cattle, Mr. Theobald, of Trelew, and to the many kind friends who live in the Argentine Republic.
I am indebted to my friend, Alfred James Jenkinson, Scholar of Hertford College, Oxford, for his kindness in preparing photographs for reproduction.
Most of all I owe a debt (a debt which runs yearly into compound interest) to my mother, who is accountable for anything that is worth while in this book, and who has collaborated in its production.
H. HESKETH PRICHARD.