MACMILLAN AND CO., Limited
LONDON · BOMBAY · CALCUTTA
MELBOURNE
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
NEW YORK · BOSTON · CHICAGO
ATLANTA · SAN FRANCISCO
THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd.
TORONTO
TRANS-HIMALAYA
DISCOVERIES AND ADVENTURES
IN TIBET
BY
SVEN HEDIN
WITH 388 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS, WATER-
COLOUR SKETCHES, AND DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR
AND 10 MAPS
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL. II
MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED
ST. MARTIN’S STREET, LONDON
1910
First Edition 1909
Reprinted 1910
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXXV PAGEImmured Monks
1 CHAPTER XXXVIOver the Chang-la-Pod-la
12 CHAPTER XXXVIITargo-gangri and the Shuru-tso
25 CHAPTER XXXVIIITo the Outlet of the Chaktak-tsangpo in the Brahmaputra
38 CHAPTER XXXIXMuhamed Isa’s Death
52 CHAPTER XLAlong Byways to Tradum
64 CHAPTER XLIA Peep into Nepal
77 CHAPTER XLIIIn Search of the Source of the Brahmaputra
89 CHAPTER XLIIIThe Source of the Sacred River—A Departure
99 CHAPTER XLIVA Night on Manasarowar
110 CHAPTER XLVMore Lake Voyages
122 CHAPTER XLVIA Stormy Voyage over the Holy Lake
133 CHAPTER XLVIIOn the Roof of the Gossul Monastery
144 CHAPTER XLVIIIOur Last Days on Tso-mavang
154 CHAPTER XLIXAdventures on Langak-tso
166 CHAPTER LThe Source of the Sutlej
178 CHAPTER LIA Pilgrimage round Kang-rinpoche
189 CHAPTER LIIOm Mani Padme Hum
200 CHAPTER LIIIThe Discovery of the Source of the Indus
A Resolution
215 CHAPTER LVA New Chapter
226 CHAPTER LVIUp to the Heights of Dapsang
237 CHAPTER LVIIOn the Roof of the World
248 CHAPTER LVIIIForty Degrees below Zero
258 CHAPTER LIXIn the Snow
267 CHAPTER LXDeath of the Last Veteran
272 CHAPTER LXIThirty Days of Storm
282 CHAPTER LXIIAdventures of Ourselves and Puppy in Nagrong
292 CHAPTER LXIIIThrough the Highlands of Bongba
302 CHAPTER LXIVTsongpun Tashi
313 CHAPTER LXVBuptsang-tsangpo, one of the Largest Rivers of the Heart of Tibet
321 CHAPTER LXVIIn the Robbers’ Paradise
332 CHAPTER LXVIIApril 24
343 CHAPTER LXVIIIHis Excellency the Governor of Saka
353 CHAPTER LXIXKamba Tsenam, Father of the Robbers
364 CHAPTER LXXThe Seventh Crossing of the Trans-Himalaya—To the Heavenly Lake of the Throne Mountain
374 CHAPTER LXXIAnother Journey across the White Patch
385 CHAPTER LXXIIThe Last Days in Unknown Country
395 CHAPTER LXXIIIThe Trans-Himalaya
401 CHAPTER LXXIVSimla
415INDEX
425ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE189. Sven Hedin
Frontispiece190. Hermit’s Grotto near the Chang-la-Pod-la
12191. Robert and Rabsang by the Ice on the Way to the Chang-la-Pod-la
192. A Lhadse decked with Mani-Stones and Prayer-Streamers
18193, 194. Nomads south of Targo-gangri
24195. Mendicant Lama blowing on a Human Bone
24196. Tibetan Boy
24197. Kubi-gangri from Camp 201
26198. Targo-gangri from a Hill near Camp 150
26199. The Chomo-uchong Group from the Kinchen-la, May 23, 1907
26200. Lundup’s Squadron. To the left a part of Targo-gangri, Camp 150
28201. Lundup (on horseback to the left) and his Retinue prevent me from proceeding to the Dangra-yum-tso
30202, 203, 204. Targo-gangri from the South
32205. The Shuru-tso, with Targo-gangri in the Background
34206. On the Upper Raga-tsangpo
36207. Angden-la
36208. Chomo-uchong from the east
36209, 210. Angden-la, a Pass on the Trans-Himalaya
38211. Manis on the Way to the Angden-la
40212. Chomo-uchong from Lamlung-la
44213. Panorama from the Ta-la. The Brahmaputra Valley and the Himalayas in the Background
44214. Beggar at Tashi-gembe
50215. Young Tibetan at the Mouth of the Chaktak-tsangpo
50216. Wandering Lama with a Wooden Glove in his Hand, such as is used to protect the Hands in the Prostration Pilgrimage round the Holy Mountain Kailas
50217. The Corpse of Muhamed Isa
54218. Muhamed Isa’s Funeral Procession
56219, 220, 221. The Interment of Muhamed Isa
58222. Woman at the Mouth of the Chaktak-tsangpo in the Tsangpo
64223. Tibetan of Saka
64224. Lama in Saka-dzong
64225, 226, 227, 228. Tibetan Boys and Girls of Saka and Tradum
70229. Woman of Nyuku
74230. Two Tibetans
74231. The Gova of Tuksum
232. Girl at Pasa-guk
74233. View from the Kore-la towards the south-west
78234. Gulam Razul’s Tents in Gartok
82235. Landscape in Upper Nepal
82236. A Chhorten in Nepal
84237. Group of Tibetan Women
84238. Women in the Village of Namla
88239. Inhabitants of the Village of Namla
88240. Lama in my Boat
92241. Loading the Boat with Boxes on crossing the Brahmaputra
92242. Panorama of Kubi-gangri and the Langta-chen Glacier, with the Source of the Brahmaputra (from a height of 16,453 feet, July 13, 1907)
102243, 244, 245. The Mountains at the Source of the Brahmaputra
106246. Tibetans on the Bank of the Soma-tsangpo
110247. Group of Natives of Langmar
110248. Robert in the Boat
118249. Sheep-shearing at Tugu-gompa on Manasarowar
124250. The God of the Lake rising from Tso-mavang
130251. Temple Hall of the Lake-God of Tso-mavang
134252. Chenresi’s Image in Tugu-gompa
134253. The Lhakang Hall in Tugu-gompa
138254. Lama with Prayer-Drum
140255. Lama before the Temple Door in Tugu-gompa
140256. Yanggo-gompa
146257. Interior of the Temple, Tugu
146258. A Dreamer. Lama in Yanggo-gompa on Manasarowar
148259. The old Nun in Yanggo-gompa
150260. The Holy Lake Manasarowar from Tugu-gompa, with Kailas in the Background
Coloured 152261. Boy on the Upper Tsangpo
162262. The young Prior of Langbo-nan
162263. Temple Vessels in Chiu-gompa
166264. Two Children in Shigatse
166265. Kailas behind Nyandi-gompa
266. My Pack-Sheep
170267. Part of Kailas
174268. Kailas from Diri-pu
182269. Confluence of the Two Arms of the Indus
182270. Tibetan Female Pilgrims at Kailas
188271. The Gova by whose help the Source of the Indus was discovered (seated) and Tibetans at Kailas
194272. Gulam Razul beside Bales of Chinese Brick-Tea
198273. Tibetan Tent
202274. Monastery of Gar-gunsa
202275. Images at Chushut
202276. The Policemen from Simla
206277. My Boat on the Indus
206278. Ladaki Women
206279, 280, 281. At the Monastery Door in Tashi-gang between Gartok and Ladak
210282. Dancing Women in Chushut, a Village on my Way back to Ladak
212283. Old Woman
216284. Lama in Chushut
216285. On the Way to Tankse
220286. In the Indus Valley on the Way to Ladak
220287. The new Horses and Mules at Drugub
220288. Robert in Winter Dress
224289. Abdul Kerim, the new Caravan Leader
226290, 291, 292. Lobsang, Gulam, Kutus—my last trusty Followers
228293. Beggars
230294. Abdul Kerim’s new Tent
230295. My Brown Puppy with my Cook, Tsering
234296, 297, 298. My White Ladaki Horse
234299. Panorama from Camp 422, Bongba
238300. Panorama from Camp 277, Shyok Valley
238301. View from Camp 307
Coloured 258302. The small salt Lake south of Camp 309
Coloured 258303. Horses going to drink at the Lake near Camp 310. Abdul Kerim on the left
Coloured304. Mountain north-east of Camp 310; the freshwater Lake in the Foreground
Coloured 258305. Storm Clouds over the Snowy Mountains south of Camp 312
Coloured 258306. Camp 307
262307. Camp 333. The Beginning of a Storm
262308. Camp 335. Lemchung-tso, looking east
262309. Camp 401. Kanchung-gangri from the north
262310. My Dying Pony
264311. Lost beyond Recovery
268312. “If this continues a few days longer, we are lost”
270313, 314, 315, 316, 317. Panoramas from the Camps 318, 333, 335, 359, 360; in the last two, Sha-kangsham
284318. The Author as a Shepherd
298319, 320, 321. The Summits of Lunpo-gangri from Camps 379, 381, and 383
326322. Wrestling
332323. Two Guides
332324. Boy with Hat
332325. Shepherd Boy
332326. Sonam Ngurbu, Chief of the Chokchu Province
334327. Dorche Tsuen, Governor of the Saka Province
334328. Man with a singular Cap, in Sonam Ngurbu’s Escort
334329. Tagla Tsering, the Chief who refused to let me go to the Dangra-yum-tso
334330. Travelling Ladaki Merchant in West Tibet
340331. Oang Gye, Son of the Governor of Saka
340332. Panchor, the Yak-slayer, my Guide on the Journey to the Teri-nam-tso
340333. Woman of Yumba-matsen
340334. Tibetans with Yaks
344335. Dorche Tsuen on the March
344336. Farewell Entertainment for the Tibetans on May 5, 1908
348337, 338, 339, 340. The Dancers at the Camp-fire: Tubges, Kunchuk, Suen
350341. Inner Court of Selipuk
354342. Dorche Tsuen and Ngavang on Horseback
354343. The Author in Tibetan Dress
344, 345. Soldiers of the Garrison of Saka-dzong, belonging to our Escort
360346. Armed Tibetan from the Country between the Teri-nam-tso and the Dangra-yum-tso
360347. Boy with small Gun on the southern Shore of the Teri-nam-tso
360348. Trooper of the Escort
364349. Tibetan of Teri-nam-tso
364350. Young Shepherd of Bongba
364351. Guests at the Opening of my Tent on the Bank of the Teri-nam-tso
366352. The Yaks fording the River Soma-tsangpo
366353. Nima Tashi, Commander of the Government Escort on the way to the Teri-nam-tso
Coloured 368354. Nuns of Mendong
Coloured 368355. A High Lama of Chokchu
Coloured 368356. The Prior of Selipuk
Coloured 368357. Two Lamas of Mendong
370358. My Sheep crossing the River Soma-tsangpo
370359. Village below Lunkar-gompa on the Tarok-tso
Coloured 374360. Mendong Monastery west of the Teri-nam-tso
Coloured 374361. Selipuk Monastery south-west of the Nganglaring-tso
Coloured 374362. Holiday Costumes and Ornaments of Tibetan Women of Kyangrang in the Trans-Himalaya
Coloured 374363. Crossing the Kangsham River
376364. The Village of Lunkar
378365. Group of Tibetans at the Teri-nam-tso
378366. The Village of Lunkar from the Temple Hill
382367. The southern Shore of Manasarowar with grazing Yaks
382368. Lunkar-gompa
386369. Selipuk-gompa
386370. The Trans-Himalaya from Abuk-la
388371. Storm over the Trans-Himalaya
388372. Sonam Ngurbu and his Followers on Horseback
392373. Some of our Horses on the Way to Kamba Tsenam’s Tent
392374. Lama of Chokchu taking leave of the Prior of Selipuk
396375. Lama of Chokchu on Horseback
396376, 377. Boys sitting
398378. Young Lama
398379. Old Woman
398380. Colonel T. G. Montgomerie
404381. Abbé Huc
404382. Altar Table with Images of Gods in Mangnang-gompa
Coloured 406383. The Author in Tibetan Costume at the Mission Station in Poo
408384. The last Members of the last Expedition in Poo
412385. My Puppy
416386. Takkar in his new Home with the Missionaries in Poo
416387. Simla
418388. The last Members of the Expedition at the Entrance of the Viceregal Lodge in Simla
420