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18.  Venison

When good, the fat is clear, bright, and of considerable thickness. To know when it is necessary to cook it, a knife must be plunged into the haunch; and from the smell the cook must determine whether to dress it at once, or to keep it a little longer.

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19.  Turkey

In choosing poultry, the age of the bird is the chief point to be attended to. An old turkey has rough and reddish legs; a young one smooth and black. Fresh killed, the eyes are full and clear, and the feet moist. When it has been kept too long, the parts about the vent have a greenish appearance.

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20.  Common Domestic Fowls

when young, have the legs and combs smooth; when old these parts are rough, and on the breast long hairs are found when the feathers axe plucked off: these hairs must be removed by singeing. Fowls and chickens should be plump on the breast, fat on the back, and white-legged.

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21.  Geese

The bills and feet are red when old, yellow when young. Fresh killed, the feet are pliable, but they get stiff when the birds are kept too long. Geese are called green when they are only two or three months old.

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22.  Ducks

Choose them with supple feet and hard plump breasts. Tame ducks have yellow feet, wild ones red.

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23.  Pigeons

are very indifferent food when they are kept too long. Suppleness of the feet shows them to be young; the flesh is flaccid when they are getting bad from keeping. Tame pigeons are larger than wild pigeons, but not so large as the wood pigeon.

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24.  Hares and Rabbits

when old, have the haunches thick, the ears dry and tough, and the claws blunt and ragged. A young hare has claws smooth and sharp, ears that easily tear, and a narrow cleft in the lip. A leveret is distinguished from a hare by a knob or small bone near the foot.

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25.  Partridges

when young, have yellowish legs and dark-coloured bills. Old partridges are very indifferent eating.

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26.  Woodcocks and Snipes

when old, have the feet thick and hard; when these are soft and tender, they are both young and fresh killed. When their bills become moist, and their throats muddy, they have been too long killed.

(See Food in Season, Pars. 30—42.)

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27.  Names and Situations of the Various Joints

28.  Meats

In different parts of the kingdom the method of cutting up carcases varies. That which we describe below is the most general, and is known as the English method.

Beef is in season all the year; best in winter.

The Miser Fasts with Greedy Mind to Spare.