—Clarens and Vevey—Lausanne—Society in Lausanne—Return to Paris—The
Louvre stripped—Death of Marshal Ney.

PART II

CHAPTER VI

MARCH-JUNE, 1816

Ball at Cambray, attended by the Duke of Wellington—An Adventure between
Saint Quentin and Compiègne—Paris revisited—Colonel Wardle and Mrs
Wallis—Society in Paris—The Sourds-Muets—The Cemetery of Père La
Chaise—Apathy of the French people—The priests—Marriage of the Duke de
Berri.

CHAPTER VII

Journey from Paris to Lausanne—Besançon—French refugees in Lausanne
—Francois Lamarque—General Espinassy—Bordas—Gautier—Michau—M. de
Laharpe—Mlle Michaud—Levade, a Protestant minister—Chambéry—Aix
—Details about M. de Boigne's career in India—English Toryism and
intolerance—Valley of Maurienne—Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at
Suza—Turin.

CHAPTER VIII

Journey from Turin to Bologna—Asti—Schiller and Alfieri—Italian
cuisine—The vetturini—Marengo—Piacenza—The Trebbia—Parma—The
Empress Maria Louisa—Modena—Bologna—The University—The Marescalchi
Gallery—Character of the Bolognese.

CHAPTER IX

Journey across the Appennines to Florence—Tuscan idioms and customs—Monuments and galleries at Florence—The Cascino—Churches— Theatres—Popularity of the Grand Duke—Napoleon's downfall not regretted—Academies in Florence.

CHAPTER X

Journey from Florence to Rome—Sienna—Radicofani—Bolsena—Montefiascone wine—Viterbo—Baccano—The Roman Campagna—The papal douans—Monuments and Museums in Rome—Intolerance of the Catholic Christians—The Tiber and the bridges—Character of the Romans—The Palazzi and Ville—Canova's atelier—Theatricals—An execution in Rome.

CHAPTER XI

From Rome to Naples—Albano—Velletri—The Marshes—Terracina—Mola di
Gaeta—Capua—The streets of Naples—Monuments and Museums—Visit to
Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius—Dangerous ventures—Puzzuoli and
Baiae—Theatres at Naples—Pulcinello—Return to Rome—Tivoli.

CHAPTER XII

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816

From Rome to Florence—Sismondi the historian—Reminiscences of
India—Lucca—Princess Elisa Baciqochi—Pisa—The Campo Santo—Leghorn—
Hebrews in Leghorn—Lord Dillon—The story of a lost glove—From Florence
to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis—Lombardy in winter—The
Hospice of Mont Cenis.

PART III

CHAPTER XIII

MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817

Journey from Lausanne to Clermont-Ferrand—A wretched conveyance—The first dish of frogs—Society in Clermont-Ferrand—General de Vergennes— Cleansing the town—Return to Lausanne—A zealous priest—Journey to Bern and back to Lausanne—Avenches—Lake Morat—Lake Neufchatel—The Diet in Bern—Character of the Bernois—A beautiful Milanese lady.

CHAPTER XIV

SEPTEMBER, 1817-APRIL, 1818

Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples—Residence at Naples—The theatre of San Carlo—Rossini's operas—Gaming in Naples—The Lazzaroni—Public writers—Carbonarism—Return to Rome—Christmas eve at Santa Maria Maggiore—Mme Dionigi—Theatricals—Society in Rome—The papal government—Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino—Louis Napoleon, ex-King of Holland—Pope Pius VII—Thorwaldsen—Granet—The Holy Week in Rome—The Duchess of Devonshire—From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road.

CHAPTER XV

APRIL-JULY, 1818

Journey from Florence to Pisa and from thence by the Appennines to
Genoa—Massa—Carrara—Genoa—Monuments and works of art—The
Genoese—Return to Florence—Journey from Florence through Bologna and
Ferrara to Venice—Monument to Ariosto in Ferrara—A description of
Venice—Padua—Vicenza—Verona—Cremona—Return to Milan—The Scala
theatre—Verona again—From Verona to Innspruck.

CHAPTER XVI

JULY-SEPTEMBER, 1818

Innspruck—Tyrol and the Tyrolese—From Innspruck to Munich—Monuments and churches—Theatricals—Journey from Munich to Vienna on a floss—Trouble with a passport—Complicated system of Austrian money—Description of Vienna—The Prater—The theatres—Schiller's Joan of Arc—A Kinderballet—The young Napoleon at Schoenbrunn—Journey from Vienna to Prague.

CHAPTER XVII

SEPTEMBER, 1818-MARCH, 1819

The splendid city of Prague—The German expression, "To give the basket"—
Journey from Prague to Dresden—Journey from Dresden to Berlin—A
description of Berlin—The Prussian Army—Theatricals—Peasants talk about
Napoleon—Prussians and French should be allies—Absurd policy of the
English Tories—Journey from Berlin to Dresden—A description of
Dresden—The battle of Dresden in 1813—Clubs at Dresden—Theatricals—
German beds—Saxon scholars—The picture gallery—Tobacco an ally of
Legitimacy—Saxon women—Meissen—Unjust policy of Europe towards the King
of Saxony.

CHAPTER XVIII

MARCH-APRIL, 1819

Journey from Dresden to Leipzig—The University of Leipzig—Liberal spirit—The English disliked in Saxony—The English Government hostile to liberty—Journey to Frankfort—From Frankfort to Metz and Paris—A.F. Lemaître—Bon voyage to the Allies—Return to England.

* * * * *

CHAPTER I

MAY-JUNE, 1815

Passage from Ceylon to England—Napoleon's return—Ostend—Bruges—Ghent— The King of France at Mass—Alost—Bruxelles—The Duke of Wellington very confident—Feelings of the Belgians—Good conduct of British troops—Monuments in Bruxelles—Theatricals—Genappe and Namur—Complaints against the Prussian troops—Mons—Major-General Adam—Tournay—A French deserter—General Clinton's division—Cavalry review—The Duke de Berri—Back to Bruxelles—Unjust opinions about Napoleon and the French—Battle at Ligny—The day of Waterloo in Bruxelles—Visit to the battlefield—Terrible condition of the wounded—Kindness of the Bruxellois.

BRUXELLES, May 1, 1815.

I proceed to the fulfilment of my promise, to give you from time to time the details of my tour, and my reflections on the circumstances that occur at this momentous crisis.

To me, who have spent the greatest part of my life out of Europe, the whole scene is so new that I am quite bewildered with it; and you will, I am afraid, as I write on the impulse of the moment, find my ideas at times rather incoherently put together. What changes have taken place in Europe within the last two years! and how great were those which occurred during the interval of my passage from Ceylon last year, which island I quitted about the