be in contact with large stones. It may be increased by cuttings taken in spring and planted in the shade in leaf-mould. It flowers at midsummer. Height, 6 in.

Antirrhinum (Snapdragon).—Handsome hardy perennials; most effective in beds or borders. They stand remarkably well both drought and excessive rainfall, and succeed in any common soil. Seeds sown early in spring produce flowers the same year. For spring bedding, sow in July; keep the young plants in a cold frame, and plant out in March or April. Choice sorts may be plentifully increased by cuttings taken in July or August. Flower from July to September. Height, 1-1/2 ft. to 2 ft.

Ants in Gardens.--- Contrary to general belief, ants do more good than harm to a garden; but as they are unsightly on flowers, it is advisable to tie a little wool round the stems of standard roses and other things upon which they congregate. They will not crawl over the wool. A little sulphur sprinkled over a plant will keep them from it; while wall-fruit, etc., may be kept free from them by surrounding it with a broad band of chalk. Should they become troublesome on account of their numbers a strong decoction of elder leaves poured into the nest will destroy them; or a more expeditious method of getting rid of them is to put gunpowder in their nests and fire it with a piece of touch-paper tied on to a long stick.

Aotus Gracillima.—A charming and graceful evergreen shrub, whose slender branches are covered with small pea-like flowers in May. It is most suitable for the greenhouse, and delights in a soil of loamy peat and sand. Cuttings of half-ripened wood planted under glass will take root. Height, 3 ft.

Aphides, or plant-lice, make their presence known by the plant assuming an unhealthy appearance, the leaves curling up, etc. Frequently swarms of ants (which feed upon the aphides) are found beneath the plants attacked. Syringe the plant all over repeatedly with gas-tar water, or with tobacco or lime-water. The lady-bird is their natural enemy.

Apios Tuberosa (Glycine Apios).—An American climbing plant which produces in the autumn bunches of purple flowers of an agreeable odour. The foliage is light and elegant. The plant is quite hardy. It enjoys a light soil and a good amount of sunshine. It may be increased by separating the tubers after the tops have died down, and planting them while they are fresh. Height, 12 ft.

Aponogeton.—See "Aquatics."

Apples.—Apples delight in a moist, cool climate. All apples will not succeed on the same soil, some preferring clay, while others grow best in sandy loam or in well-drained peat. For a deep, good soil and a sheltered situation the standard form grafted on the Crab-apple is generally considered to be the most profitable. For shallow soils it is better to graft on to the Paradise stock, as its roots do not run down so low as the Crab. The ground, whether deep or shallow, should receive a good mulching in the autumn; that on the deep soil being dug in at the approach of spring, while that on the shallow soil should be removed in the spring to allow the ground to be lightly forked and sweetened, replacing the manure when the dry, hot weather sets in. The best time to perform the grafting is March, and it should be done on the whip-handle system, particulars of which will be found under "Grafting." Young trees may be planted in the autumn, as soon as the leaves have fallen. Budding is done in August, just in the same manner as roses. In spring head back to the bud; a vigorous shoot will then be produced, which can be trained as desired. Apples need very little pruning, it being merely necessary to remove branches growing in the wrong direction; but this should be done annually, while the branches are young—either at the end of July or in winter. If moss makes its appearance, scrape it off and wash the branches with hot lime. The following sorts may be specially recommended:—For heavy soils, Duchess of Oldenburgh, equally suitable for cooking or dessert; Warner's King, one of the best for mid-season; and King of the Pippins, a handsome and early dessert apple. For light, warm soils, Cox's Orange Pippin or Bess Pool. The Devonshire Quarrenden is a delicious apple, and will grow on any good soil. In orchards standards should stand 40 ft. apart each way, and dwarfs from 10 ft. to 15 ft.

Apricots.—Early in November is the most favourable time for planting Apricots. The soil—good, sound loam for preference—should be dug 3 ft. deep, and mixed with one-fourth its quantity of rotten leaves and one-fourth old plaster refuse. Place a substratum of bricks below each tree and tread the earth very firmly round the roots. They will not need any manure until they are fruiting, when a little may be applied in a weak liquid form, but a plentiful supply of water should be given during spring and summer months. The fan shape is undoubtedly the best way of training the branches, as it allows a ready means of tucking small yew branches between them to protect the buds from the cold. They may be grown on their own roots by planting the stone, but a quicker way to obtain fruit is to bud them on to vigorous seedling plum trees. This should be done in August, inserting the bud on the north or north-west side of the stem and as near the ground as possible. To obtain prime fruit, thin the fruit-buds out to a distance of 6 in. one from the other. In the spring any leaf-buds not required for permanent shoots can be pinched back to three or four leaves to form spurs. The Apricot is subject to a sort of paralysis, the branches dying off suddenly. The only remedy for this seems to be to prevent premature vegetation. The following are good sorts: Moor Park, Grosse Peche, Royal St. Ambroise, Kaisha, Powell's Late, and Oullin's Early. In plantations they should stand 20 ft. apart.

Aquatics.—All aquatics grow best in wicker-baskets filled with earth. Cover the surface of the earth with hay-bands twisted backwards and forwards and round the plant, and lace it down with tarred string, so as to keep the earth and plant from being washed out. The following make good plants:—White Water Lily (Nymphaea Alba) in deep water with muddy bottom; Yellow Water Lily (Nuphar Lutea); and Nuphar Advena, having yellow and red flowers; Hottonia Palustris, bearing flesh-coloured flowers, and Alismas, or Water Plantain, with white, and purple and white flowers. Water Forget-me-nots (Myosotis Palustris) flourish on the edges of ponds or rivers. The Water Hawthorn (Aponogetou Distachyon) does well in a warm, sheltered position, and may be grown in loam, plunged in a pan of water. Calla Ethiopica bears pretty white flowers, so also does the before-mentioned Aponogeton Distachyon. The Flowering Rush (Butomus Umbellatus), produces fine heads of pink flowers. The Water Violet merely needs to be laid on the surface of the water; the roots float. For shallow water Menyanthus Trifoliata (Three-leaved Buckbean) and Typha Latifolia (Broad-leaved Cat's Tail) are suitable. Weeping Willows grow readily from cuttings of ripened shoots, planted in moist soil in autumn. Spiraea does well in moist situations, near water. Aquatics are propagated by seed sown under water: many will allow of root-division. Tender Aquatics are removed in winter to warm-water tanks.

Aquilegia (Columbine).—Very ornamental and easily-grown hardy perennials. Sow seed in March in sandy soil, under glass, and transplant when strong enough. Common garden soil suits them. The roots may be divided in spring or autumn. The flowers are produced from May to July. Height, 2 ft.

Arabis Alpina (Rock Cress, or Snow in Summer).—Pure white hardy perennial, which is valuable for spring bedding. Not particular to soil, and easily raised from seed sown from March to June, placed under a frame, and transplanted in the autumn, or it may be propagated by slips, but more surely by rootlets taken after the plants have done flowering. Plant