href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@12970@[email protected]#d0e2152" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Chapter XXI

Deep Valley.—A poor ranchería.—Escort of boys.—Descent of Tinglayan Hill.—Sullen reception at Tinglayan.—Bangad.—First view of the Kalingas.—Arrival at Lubuagan.

Chapter XXII

Splendid appearance of the Kalingas.—Dancing.—Lubuagan.—Basi—Councils.—Bustles and braids.—Jewels and weapons.—Excellent houses.

Chapter XXIII

We leave the mountains.—Nanong.—Passage of the Chico.—The Apayao.—Tabuk.—The party breaks up.—Desolate plain—The Cagayán Valley.—Enrile.

Chapter XXIV

Tobacco industry.—Tuguegarao.—Caves.—The Cagayán River.—Barangayans.—Aparri.—Island of Fuga.—Sail for Manila.—Stop at Vigan.—Arrival at Manila.

Chapter XXV

Future of the Highlanders.—Origin of our effort to improve their condition.—Impolicy of any change in present administration.— Transfer of control of wild tribes to Christianized Filipinos.—Comparison of our course with that of the Japanese in Formosa.

Appendix

List of Illustrations.

• An Igorot Warrior
• Hon. Dean C. Worcester
• Views of the Benguet Road
• Working on the Benguet Road
• Padre Juan Villaverde
• Benguet Road, Zig-zag
• Tree Fern, Province of Bontok
• Ilongot Women
• Native Policemen
• Reception Committee of Ifugaos
• Mountain Scene in the Ifugao Country
• Mountain Scene between Benawe and Kiangan
• Inaba, Ifugao Village
• Ifugao Couple with Adornments of a Wedding Ceremony
• Ifugao Children
• Headless Body of Ifugao Warrior
• Ifugao Warrior
• Typical Ifugao House
• Ifugao Making Rounds of Granary
• Anitos, Kiangan
• Ifugao Chief Making a Speech
• Conference between Government Officers and the Headmen of the District
• Ifugao Head-hunter, Full Dress
• Head-hunter Dance, Kiangan
• Dancing at Kiangan
• Ifugaos Dancing
• Silipan Ifugao Earring
• Ifugaos Dancing, Benawe
• Crossing Ibilao River by Flying Trolley
• Ifugao Head Dance
• Rice Terraces at Benawe
• Body of Igorot Girl Prepared for Burial
• Carabao Fight
• Igorot Tribunal
• A Bontok Igorot House
• Igorot Rice Fields
• On the Trail from Benguet to Cervantes
• Bontok Igorot Woman
• Elaborate Tattooing of the Head-hunter
• Bontok Igorot Constabulary Soldiers
• Bontok Igorot Slapping Game
• Gansas with Human Jaws as Handles
• Women and Girls Wearing Banana-leaf Skirts
• New School-house, Bontok
• Valley of the Rio Chico
• Kalinga Girl
• Looking Down the Rio Chico
• Spiral Camote Patch
• Madallam, Kalinga Headman
• Two Headmen of Lubuagan
• Kalinga Warriors
• Typical Kalinga House
• Conference at Lubuagan
• View of Lubuagan, Capital of Kalinga
• Kalinga Head-ax
• Igorot Shield
• Ifugao Carved Bowl
• Ifugao Pipe, Carved Figure, and Wooden Spoon
• Carved Wooden Figurines
• Map of Northern Luzon

Preface.

In 1910 the Secretary of the Interior of the Philippine Islands did me the honor to invite me to accompany him on his annual tour of inspection through the Mountain Province of Northern Luzon. In the following pages I have tried to describe what fell under my notice during the journey, with such comments, observations, and conclusions as seemed pertinent.

I should like here to thank Mr. Worcester for having invited me to join him, and Major-General Duvall, United States Army, for allowing me to accept. My thanks are also due the various officers and officials of the Insular Government who placed me under obligations by their hospitality and other courtesies and by the never-failing patience with which they received and answered my many questions. To my friend Colonel J.G. Harbord, United States Army, Assistant Director of Constabulary, I am beholden for instructions sent out in advance of the journey to the various Constabulary posts on the itinerary, directing them to offer me every opportunity to accomplish the purpose of my trip. Except where otherwise indicated, the illustrations are from photographs taken either by Mr. Worcester himself, or else under his direction. Some of these, as shown, were lent to me by the National Geographic Magazine of Washington, and others by the Bureau of Insular Affairs of the War Department. My best thanks are due and given in each case. Dr. Heiser was kind enough to let me have a few photographs taken by him. To Lieutenant P.D. Glassford, 2d Regiment of Field Artillery, I am indebted for the map of Northern Luzon and for one or two other illustrations copied from Jenks’ “The Bontoc Igorot”; to Father Malumbres, of the Dominican Monastery in Manila, for information relating to Padre Villaverde and for the portrait of that missionary; it is to be regretted that this portrait should be so unsatisfactory, but it is the only one available. The frontispiece is by Mr. Julian Miller, who has lived in the Igorot country, and whose drawing is from life.

C. De W.W.
West Point, N.Y.,
January, 1912.

Chapter I.

It is to be regretted that the people of the United States should in general show so little interest in the Philippine Islands. This lack of interest may be due to lack of knowledge; if this be so, then it is the duty of those better informed to do all that lies in their power to develop the interest now regrettably absent. Be this as it may, it is assumed here that most of our people do not know that a very large fraction of the inhabitants of the Philippines consists of the so-called wild men, and that of these the greatest group or collection is found in the mountains of Northern Luzon.

These mountaineers or highlanders constitute perhaps, all other things being equal, as interesting a body of uncivilized people as is to be found on the face of the earth to-day. The Spaniards, of course, soon discovered their existence, the first mention of them being made by De Morga, in his “Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas” (1609). He speaks