additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES, BOX LOOM WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and fancy weaves.

The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this direction, this should prove a valuable help.

The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval and encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should his efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of Textiles."

THEORY OF SILK WEAVING

DRAWING-IN

With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by which all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the harness.

The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:

Straight draws,

Skip draws,

Point draws,

Section draws.

STRAIGHT DRAWS

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin with the first heddle on the left side of the shaft nearest to the warp-beam, then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until all the shafts the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one "draw," and this operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are taken up.

The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is almost universal with the silk business and is technically called drawing-in from back to front.

The opposite, or drawing in from front to rear, is used occasionally, however, and in this case makes the first heddle on the left hand side of the front shaft No. 1.

The making out of the Drawing-in Draft, which must indicate the arrangement or the rotation in which the warp-threads are drawn in, can be done in various ways, of which we will mention the two most popular methods. The first is by using common designing paper, and indicating the rotation by dots. The horizonal rows of squares represent the shafts, the vertical rows the warp-threads. Fig. 1 shows four repeats of a straight draw on six harness marked out according to this idea. A second method is to use paper ruled horizontally, the lines representing the shafts; and to draw vertical lines

for the warp-threads. The latter are made to stop on the lines bearing the number of the shafts into which the respective threads are to be drawn. Fig. 2 is such a draft, illustrating six repeats of a draw on four harness from "Front to Rear."

SKIP DRAWS

Fig. 3