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قراءة كتاب Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets
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Emollient, and tho' otherwiſe not for our Sallet, the Roots brewed in Ale or Beer, are excellent for the Scorbute.
Earth-Nuts, Bulbo-Caſtanum; (found in divers places of Surry, near Kingſton, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by Rustics, with a little Pepper; but are beſt boil'd like other Roots, or in Pottage rather, and are ſweet and nouriſhing.
24. Elder, Sambucus; The Flowers infus'd in Vinegar, grateful both to the Stomach and Taſte; attenuate thick and viſcid Humours; and tho' the Leaves are ſomewhat rank of Smell, and ſo not commendable in Sallet; they are otherwiſe (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most ſovereign Vertue; and the ſpring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently wholſome in Pottage at that Seaſon of the Year. See Flowers.
25. Endive, Endivium, Intubum Sativum; the largeſt, whiteſt, and tendereſt Leaves beſt boil'd, and leſs crude. It is naturally Cold, profitable for hot Stomachs; Inciſive and opening Obſtructions of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in Compoſition, with the uſual Intinctus: It is alſo excellent being boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk ſeparated, eats firm, and the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before Lettuce. See Succory.
Eſchalot. See Onions.
26. Fennel, Fœniculum: The ſweeteſt of Bolognia: Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, ſharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain; eſpecially the tender Umbella and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be peel'd when young, and then dreſs'd like Sellery. The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with Vinegar, or Oyl, and Pepper, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into Compoſition. The Italians eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call Cartucci) all Winter long. There is a very ſmall Green-Worm, which ſometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, as the Red one in that of Sellery.
27. Flowers, Flores; chiefly of the Aromatick Eſculents and Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their Simples, in a more intenſe degree; and may therefore be eaten alone in their proper Vehicles, or Compoſition with other Salleting, ſprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Reliſh, being Infus'd in Vinegar; Eſpecially thoſe of the Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange, Cowſlip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Naſturtium Indicum, &c. Some of them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make alſo very pleasant and wholſome Theas, as do likewiſe the Wild Time, Bugloſſ, Mint, &c.
28. Garlick, Allium; dry towards Exceſs; and tho' both by Spaniards and Italians, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with almoſt every thing, and eſteem'd of such ſigular Vertue to help Conception, and thought a Charm againſt all Infection and Poyſon (by which it has obtain'd the Name of the Country-man's Theriacle) we yet think it more proper for our Northern Ruſtics, especially living in Uliginous and moiſt places, or ſuch as uſe the Sea: Whilſt we abſolutely forbid it entrance into our Salleting, by reaſon of its intolerable Rankneſs, and which made it ſo deteſted of old; that the eating of it was (as we read) part of the Puniſhment for ſuch as had committed the horrid'ſt Crimes. To be ſure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, nor thoſe who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the Diſh, with a Clove thereof, much better ſupply'd by the gentler Roccombo.
Note, That in Spain they ſometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its fierceneſs, turns it into Nouriſhment, or rather Medicine.
Ginny-Pepper, Capſicum. See Pepper.
29. Goats-beard, Trago-pogon: The Root is excellent even in Sallet, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breaſt, and may be ſtew'd and dreſs'd as Scorzonera.
30. Hops, Lupulus: Hot and moiſt, rather Medicinal, than fit for Sallet; the Buds and young Tendrels excepted, which may be eaten raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like Aſparagus: They are Diuretic; depurate the Blood, and open Obſtructions.
31. Hyſſop, Hyſſopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran, Mary-gold, &c. as all hot, ſpicy Aromatics, (commonly growing in Kitchin-Gardens) are of Faculty to Comfort, and ſtrengthen; prevalent againſt Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like theſe, going under the Names of Pot Herbs, are much more proper for Broths and Decoctions, than the tender Sallet: Yet the Tops and Flowers reduc'd to Powder, are by ſome reſerv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.
32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, Alliaria, or Sauce-alone; has many Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other Sallets, eſpecially by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.
33. Leeks, and Cibbols, Porrum; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, ſince Latona, the Mother of Appolo long'd after them: The Welch, who eat them much, are obſerv'd to be very fruitful: They are alſo friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being ſod in Milk; a few therefore of the ſlender and green Summities, a little ſhred, do not amiſs in Compoſition. See Onion.
34. Lettuce, Lactuca: Tho' by Metaphor call'd 18Mortuorum Cibi, (to ſay nothing of 19Adonis and his ſad Miſtriſs) by reason of its Soporiferous quality, ever was, and ſtill continues the principal Foundation of the univerſal Tribe of Sallets; which is to Cool and Refreſh, beſides its other Properties: And therefore in ſuch high eſteem with the Ancients; that divers of the Valerian Family, dignify'd and enobled their Name with that of Lactucinii.
It is indeed of Nature more cold and moiſt than any of the reſt; yet leſs aſtringent, and ſo harmleſs that it may ſafely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguiſhes Thirſt, excites Appetite, kindly Nouriſhes, and above all repreſſes Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates Pain; beſides the effect it has upon the Morals, Temperance and Chaſtity. Galen (whoſe beloved Sallet it was) from its pinguid, ſubdulcid and agreeable Nature, ſays it breeds the moſt laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called Sana, by way of eminency, and ſo highly valu'd by the great 20Auguſtus, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickneſs to them, 'tis reported, he erected a Statue, and built an Altar to this noble Plant. And that the moſt abſtemious and excellent Emperor