pilgrims—Varied costumes—We meet the Vladika of Montenegro—The ordeal of hot coffee—A real pilgrimage—The shrine of S. Vasili—The ancient hermit—A miracle—Nikšić—The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's palace—We are disappointed at Nikšić

    248-262         CHAPTER XIX       The Club and its members—Gugga—Irregularities of time—The absence of the gentle muse and our surprise—The musician's story and his subsequent fate—The Black Earth—A typical border house—The ordeal of infancy—A realistic performance which is misunderstood—Concerning a memorable drive—A fervent prayer     263-279         CHAPTER XX       We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje—A Montenegrin wake and its consequences—A hero's death—Montenegrin conversation—Needless appeals to the Deity—We visit the hospital     280-289         CHAPTER XXI       The Law Court in Cetinje—The Prince as patriarch—A typical lawsuit—Pleasant hours with murderers—Our hostel—A Babel of tongues—Our sojourn draws to a close—The farewell cup of coffee and apostrophe     290-297         Index     298

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

		Face Page
H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO		Frontispiece
THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO		33
THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO		37
NJEGUSI		38
THE GUSLAR		39
MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY		43
THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG		43
THE PRINCE'S PALACE		45
GENERAL VIEW OF CETINJE		46
THE FEMALE PRISONERS		50
THE PRISONERS DANCING		52
THE VIZIER BRIDGE		62
GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA		65
THE RIBNICA		67
THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN		86
VOIVODA MARKO		89
SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL		89
SPUZ		90
ACHMET UIKO		100
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