class="x-ebookmaker-pageno" title="p. 24" id="pgepubid00020"/>with such men as our captain and mates.  On Sunday, the 30th, we reached Somerset, where we were met by the Bertha, with Mr. McFarlane on board of her.  Mr. McFarlane was soon on board of the steamer to welcome us, and remained with us till the evening.  There was very little of the Sabbath observed that day—all was bustle and confusion.  Quite a number of the pearl-shelling boats were at Somerset awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and the masters of these boats were soon on and around the steamer receiving their goods.

On Tuesday, October 2nd, we left Somerset in the Bertha, for Murray Island, anchoring that night off Albany.  On Wednesday night, we anchored off a sandbank, and on Thursday, off a miserable-looking island, called Village Island.  On Friday, we came to York Island, where we went ashore and saw only four natives—one man and three boys.  At eleven p.m. on Saturday, we anchored at Darnley Island.  This is a fine island, and more suitable for vessels and landing goods than Murray, but supposed to be not so healthy.  The island is about five hundred feet in height, in some parts thickly wooded, in others bare.  It was here the natives cut off a boat’s crew about thirty years ago, for which they suffered—the captain landing with part of his crew, well-armed, killing many and chasing them right round the island.  They never again attempted anything of the kind.  As a native of the island expressed himself on the subject:—

“White fellow, he too much make fright, man he all run away, no want see white fellow gun no more.”  In 1871, the first teachers were landed here.

The Sunday morning was fine, and we resolved to spend a quiet forenoon on shore.  We landed after breakfast, and walked through what must be in wet weather a deep swamp, to the mission house on the hill.  Gucheng, the Loyalty islander, who is teacher here, looks a good determined fellow.  The people seem to live not far from the mission house, so did not take long to assemble.  There were about eighty at the service, including a few Australians employed by one of the white men on the island to fish for trepang.  The Darnley islanders appear a much more interesting people than the Australians.  Many of those present at the service were clothed.  They sang very well indeed such hymns as “Come to Jesus,” “Canaan, bright Canaan,” which, with some others, have been translated into their language.  Mr. McFarlane addressed them, through the teacher, and the people seemed to attend to what was said.

Because of a strong head wind, we could not leave the next day, so Mr. McFarlane and I returned to the shore.  We found the children collected in Gucheng’s house, learning to write the letters on slates.  There were very few girls present—indeed, there are not many girls on the island, so many have been destroyed by their fathers at birth.  We strolled about and visited the large cocoanut plantation belonging

to the society.  On our return we found the teacher and a number of natives collected near the beach.  They had just buried a man who had died the night before—so Christian burial has begun.  Formerly, the body would have been hung up and tapped, to allow the juices to run out, which would have been drunk by the friends.  We returned to the mission house for dinner.  I was glad to find so many boys living with Gucheng.  They were bright, happy little fellows, romping about, enjoying themselves.

We did not get away from Darnley Island till the morning of Wednesday, the 10th.  The navigation between Darnley and Murray Islands is difficult, arising from various reefs and currents.  Although only twenty-seven miles separate the two, it was Friday night before we anchored at Murray Island.  We went ashore the same night.

On Saturday, we climbed to the highest point of the island, seven hundred feet high.  There seems to be no lack of food, chiefly grown inland.  From the long drought, the island presented in many places a parched look, and lacked that luxuriance of vegetation to which we had been so long accustomed on Rarotonga.

At the forenoon meeting on Sunday there were nearly two hundred present.  Mr. McFarlane preached.  A few had a little clothing on them; some seemed attentive, but the most seemed to consider the occasion a fit time for relating the week’s news, or of

commenting on the strangers present.  The Sabbath is observed by church attendance and a cessation from work.  There is not much thieving on the island; they are an indolent people.  The school is well attended by old and young, and Josiah, the teacher, has quite a number of children living with him.  They sing very well.

Several of the old men here wear wigs.  It seems when grey hairs appear they are carefully pulled out; as time moves on they increase so fast that they would require to shave the head often, so, to cover their shame, they take to wigs, which represent them as having long, flowing, curly hair, as in youth.  Wigs would not astonish the Murray islanders, as Mr. Nott’s did the Tahitians after his return from England.  They soon spread the news round the island that their missionary had had his head newly thatched, and looked a young man again.

On Monday, the teachers’ goods and mission supplies were put on board the Bertha.  On Tuesday afternoon, after everything was on board, a farewell service was held with the teachers, and early on Wednesday morning we left Murray Island for New Guinea.  On Friday, we made New Guinea, off Yule Island, and about sunset on October 21st we anchored about five miles off Boera.  Near to the place where we anchored was a low swampy ground covered with mangrove.  We could see Lealea, where there has been so much sickness.  It presented the same low,

swampy, unhealthy appearance.  Soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside with Mr. Lawes and Piri on board.  Mr. Lawes did not seem so strong as I remembered him eleven years ago, yet he looked better than I had expected to see him.  He has suffered greatly from the climate.  Piri is a strong, hearty fellow; the climate seems to have had little effect on him.  They remained some time on board, when they went ashore in the vessel’s boat—Piri taking the teachers and their wives ashore with him.  The wind was ahead, and too strong for the canoe, so the men who came off in her with Mr. Lawes and Piri remained on board the Bertha till midnight, when the wind abated.  When the boat was leaving, they shouted to Mr. Lawes to tell us not to be afraid, as they would not steal anything.  They remained quietly on board till two a.m.

Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore in the morning.  The country looked bare and not at all inviting.  This is now the most western mission station on New Guinea proper.  Piri has a very comfortable house, with a plantation near to it.  The chapel, built principally by himself and wife, is small, but comfortable, and well suited for the climate.  The children meet in it for school.  The village has a very dirty, tumbledown appearance.

The widows of two teachers who died last year shortly after their arrival in the mission were living with Piri.  We took them on board, with their things,

to accompany us to the new mission.  I returned ashore with the boat to fetch away the remainder of the things and teachers who were ashore, and when ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetch her, so, after pulling for some time, we up sail and away for Port Moresby.  Piri and