borders.  The seams of the spenser, and the arm-holes, are also trimmed with smaller coloured borders.  On their heads they wear a handkerchief, and over this a kind of shade, like a bonnet.  On Sundays I saw many of them in small, pretty caps, worked with silk, with a border of lace of more than a hand’s breadth, plaited very stiffly; at the back they have large bows of fine riband, the ends of which reach half down to their feet.  I found nothing very remarkable in the dress of the peasants.  As far as strength and beauty were concerned, I thought these peasants were neither more nor less gifted than those of Austria.  As regards the beauty of the fair sex, I should certainly give the preference to the Austrians.  Fair hair and blue eyes predominate.

I saw but few soldiers; their uniforms, particularly those worn by the king’s life-guards, are very handsome.

I especially noticed the drummers; they were all little lads of ten or twelve years old.  One could almost have exclaimed, “Drum, whither art thou carrying that boy?”  To march, and to join in fatiguing manoeuvres, carrying such a drum, and beating it bravely at the same time, is rather cruel work for such young lads.  Many a ruined constitution may be ascribed to this custom.

During my stay in Copenhagen I spent many very delightful hours with Professor Mariboe and his amiable family, and with the kind clergyman of the embassy, Herr Zimmermann.  They received me with true politeness and hospitality, and drew me into their circle, where I soon felt myself quite at ease.  I shall never forget their friendship, and shall make use of every opportunity to shew them my appreciation of it.  Herr Edouard Gottschalk and Herr Knudson have also my best thanks.  I applied to the first of these gentlemen to procure me a passage to Iceland, and he was kind enough to use his interest with Herr Knudson on my behalf.

Herr Knudson is one of the first general dealers in Copenhagen, and carries on a larger and more extended commerce with Iceland than any other house trading thither.  He is already beginning to retire, as the continual journeys are becoming irksome to him; but he still owns a number of great and small vessels, which are partly employed in the fisheries, and partly in bringing all kinds of articles of consumption and luxury to the different harbours of Iceland.

He himself goes in one of his ships every year, and stays a few months in Iceland to settle his affairs there.  On the recommendation of Herr Gottschalk, Herr Knudson was kind enough to give me a passage in the ship in which he made the journey himself; a favour which I knew how to value.  It is certainly no small kindness to take a lady passenger on such a journey.  Herr Knudson knew neither my fortitude nor my perseverance; he did not know whether I should be able to endure the hardships of a journey to the north, whether I would bear sea-sickness philosophically, or even if I had courage enough, in case of storms or bad weather, to abstain from annoying the captain by my fears or complaints at a time when he would only have too much to harass him.  The kind man allowed no such considerations to influence him.  He believed me when I promised to behave courageously come what might, and took me with him.  Indeed his kindness went so far that it is to him I owe every comfort I enjoyed in Iceland, and every assistance in furthering the attainment of my journey’s object.  I could certainly not have commenced a voyage under better auspices.

All ships visiting Iceland leave Copenhagen at the end of April, or at the latest in the middle of May.  After this time only one ship is despatched, to carry the mails of the Danish government.  This vessel leaves Copenhagen in October, remains in Iceland during the winter months, and returns in March.  The gain or loss of this expedition is distributed in shares among the merchants of Copenhagen.

Besides this, a French frigate comes to Iceland every spring, and cruises among the different harbours until the middle of August.  She superintends the fishing vessels, which, attracted by the large profits of the fisheries, visit these seas in great numbers during the summer. [17]

Opportunities of returning from Iceland occur during the summer until the end of September, by means of the merchant-ships, which carry freights from the island to Denmark, England, and Spain.

At length, on Sunday the 4th of May, a favourable wind sprung up.  Herr Knudson sent me word to be ready to embark at noon on board the fine brig John.

I immediately proceeded on board.  The anchor was weighed, and the sails, unfolding themselves like giant wings, wafted us gently out of the harbour of Copenhagen.  No parting from children, relations, or old-cherished friends embittered this hour.  With a glad heart I bade adieu to the city, in the joyful hope soon to see the fulfilment of my long-expected journey.

The bright sky smiled above us, and a most favourable wind filled our sails.  I sat on deck and revelled in the contemplation of scenes so new to me.  Behind us lay spread the majestic town; before us the Sound, an immense natural basin, which I could almost compare to a great Swiss lake; on the right and left were the coasts of Sweden and Denmark, which here approach each other so closely that they seem to oppose a barrier to the further progress of the adventurous voyager.

Soon we passed the little Swedish town of Carlscrona, and the desolate island Hveen, on which Tycho de Brahe passed the greater portion of his life, occupied with stellar observations and calculations.  Now came a somewhat dangerous part, and one which called into action all the careful seamanship of the captain to bring us safely through the confined sea and the strong current,—the entrance of the Sound into the Cattegat.

The two coasts here approach to within a mile of each other.  On the Swedish side lies the pretty little town of Helsingborg, on the Danish side that of Helsingör, and at the extremity of a projecting neck of land the fortress Kronburg, which demands a toll of every passing ship, and shews a large row of threatening cannon in case of non-compliance.  Our toll had already been paid before leaving Copenhagen; we had been accurately signalled, and sailed fearlessly by. [18]