PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT" title="PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}img"/>
PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY TO CUT

To fasten two pieces of brace wire diagonally—

To fasten two pieces of brace wire without the use of tie wire—

Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which it is to be fastened, at right angles to it, with about two and one-half or three inches extending beyond the point at which the twist is to be made. Press the end straight backward, close to and parallel with the other end of the wire. The end should pass once and a half around. Use the jaws of the pliers to press parallel wires in the twist together, and to tighten the twist. Cut the end off close and use the pliers to press the end down flat.

To make wire frame for hat having flat brim and square crown—

Always remember that it will greatly simplify the work first to make a paper pattern for every hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of the brim of equal width, and this is one important reason why it is more satisfactory first to make a paper pattern.

Pattern for brim—

Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim sailor, being careful to fold the pattern in halves from front to back, and to crease sharply. Fold the halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and crease. This is to determine the position of the wire spokes in the brim. The eight creases will correspond to the eight spokes in the brim; this is the correct number of spokes.

Headsize wire for wire frame—

A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut two just alike, remembering always that the headsize wire is the most important wire in any hat, as the comfort of the wearer depends upon the measurements taken for this wire. Measure as for the headsize in a fabric hat, lapping the ends one inch, and tying them. Try on these wires and shape to fit the head. They should usually be elongated two inches.

Pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern, placing the joining on the back crease and the exact center front of wire on the front crease; next pin the sides securely, being careful to keep the wire shaped to fit the head. Allow one-half inch inside of wire and slash every half inch out to headsize wire. The pattern may now be tried on the head for any necessary alterations. The brim pattern may be added to or cut away.

Working measurements needed—

Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the headsize wire. Before removing the wire, mark the eight different points where it crosses the creases in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the pattern.

Sticks for brim—

Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the length of the diameter of the brim plus three inches for finishing. Place one of these sticks across the headsize wire from front to back on the marks made by the pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal length. Fasten to the headsize wire with tie wire. Place the next stick from side to side, joining on the pencil marks. The two remaining sticks when placed on the remaining marks divide the circle into eighths. This is called the skeleton of the brim; the wires are named front, back, right side, left side, right side front, right side back, left side front, left side back. The position of these ends or spokes should correspond to the creases in the paper pattern, and the length of each one should be determined by measuring the corresponding crease on the pattern.

Edge wire—

Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the circumference of the brim plus one inch for lap and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the pattern and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches it, always keeping the tied ends on the back crease. If these measurements are carefully made, the brim will be exactly like the pattern.

To join edge wire—

Begin at the back and place the mark on the edge wire on the back spoke at the pencil mark. Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten the twist. Cut the end off close and press the cut end flat with the pliers. Next finish the center front spoke, then the sides and those in between. A great deal depends upon accuracy in making an acceptable wire frame. Add as many circles of wire between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired, fastening to the spokes with tie wire. Keep all wire laps at the back on the center spoke.

Collar of brim—

Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the center. Twist these wires once and a half around the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at right angles to the headsize wire. Join the second headsize wire to the top of these wires, using the same method as for joining the edge wire. This collar may be made very low or as high as the wires will permit. A separate crown of wire is not always used in a hat covered with very sheer material or sheer braid. In such a case the collar would be made as high as possible to make a support for the crown trimming.