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قراءة كتاب Textiles and Clothing

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Textiles and Clothing

Textiles and Clothing

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دار النشر: Project Gutenberg
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CRUDE WHEEL AND DISTAFF" title="" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}img"/> SPINNING WITH CRUDE WHEEL AND DISTAFF

Distaff Thrust Into the Belt.

"GOSSIP" IN THE OLDEN TIMES"GOSSIP" IN THE OLDEN TIMES

COLONIAL WOOL WHEELCOLONIAL WOOL WHEEL
The Large Wheel Revolved by Hand Thus Turning the Spindle and Twisting the Yarn, Which Is Then Wound on the Spindle; Intermittent in Action.

COLONIAL FLAX WHEELCOLONIAL FLAX WHEEL
Worked by a Foot Treddle; Distaff on the Frame of the Wheel; "Fliers" on the Spindle, Continuous in Action; Capacity Seven Times That of Hand Spindle.

DUTCH WHEELDUTCH WHEEL
Spinner Sits in Front of the Wheel—Spinning Flax at Hull House.

Distaff

Later the distaff was used for holding the bunch of wool, flax, or other fibers. It was a short stick on one end of which was loosely wound the raw material. The other end of the distaff was held in the hand, under the arm or thrust in the girdle of the spinner. When held thus, one hand was left free for drawing out the fibers.

Graphic Diagram Showing Time During which Different Methods of Spinning Has Been Used.Graphic Diagram Showing Time During which Different Methods of Spinning Has Been Used.
Wheel Spinning

On the small spinning wheel the distaff was placed in the end of the wheel bench in front of the "fillers"; this left both hands free to manage the spindle and to draw out the threads of the fibers.


SYRIAN SPINNINGSYRIAN SPINNING
Spinner Sits on the Floor, Wheel Turned by a Crank; Spindle Held in Place by Two Mutton Joints Which Contain Enough Oil for Lubrication. At Hull House.

The flax spinning wheel, worked by means of a treadle, was invented in the early part of the sixteenth century and was a great improvement upon the distaff and spindle. This it will be seen was a comparatively modern invention. The rude wheel used by the natives of Japan and India may have been the progenitor of the European wheel, as about this time intercourse between the East and Europe increased. These wheels were used for spinning flax, wool, and afterwards cotton, until Hargreaves' invention superseded it.

WEAVING

PUEBLO WOMAN WORKING HEDDLE IN WEAVING A BELTPUEBLO WOMAN WORKING HEDDLE IN WEAVING A BELT

Someone has said that "weaving is the climax of textile industry." It is an art practiced by all savage tribes and doubtless was known before the dawn of history. The art is but a development of mat-making and basketry, using threads formed or made by spinning in place of coarser filaments.


A NAVAJO BELT WEAVERA NAVAJO BELT WEAVER

ZUNI WOMAN WEAVING CEREMONIAL BELTZUNI WOMAN WEAVING CEREMONIAL BELT

The Heddle

In the beginning of the art the warp threads were stretched between convenient objects on the ground or from horizontal supports. At first the woof or filling threads were woven back and forth between the warp threads as in darning. An improvement was the device called the "heald" or "heddle," by means of which alternate warp threads could be drawn away from the others, making an opening through which the filling thread could be passed quickly. One form of the heddle was simply a straight stick having loops of cord or sinew through which certain of the warp threads were run. Another form was a slotted frame having openings or "eyes" in the slats. This was carved from one piece of wood or other material or made from many. Alternate warp threads passed through the eyes and the slots. By raising or lowering the heddle frame, an opening was formed through which the filling thread, wound on a rude shuttle, was thrown. The next movement of the heddle frame crossed the threads over the filling and made a new opening for the return of the shuttle. At first the filling thread was wound on a stick making a primitive bobbin. Later the shuttle to hold the bobbin was devised.

PRIMITIVE HEDDLESPRIMITIVE HEDDLES

NAVAJO LOOMNAVAJO LOOM
One on the Earliest Types of Looms. At Hull House.

SIMPLE COLONIAL LOOMSIMPLE COLONIAL LOOM

The Reed

Before the "reed" was invented, the filling threads were drawn evenly into place by means of a rude comb and driven home by sword-shaped piece of wood or "batten." The reed accomplished all this at one time.


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