•   7.  A Woman of Thrace, of the Shôp Tribe, and of Macedonia 33
  

•   8.  *Sistov, on the Danube 40
  

•   9.  Ancient Costume of Balkan Peasant Women near Gabrovo 49
  

• 10.  A Wedding in the Rhodopes 56
  

• 11.  *Roustchouk, on the Danube 65
  

• 12.  "Mystery"—a Study in the Roustchouk District 67
  

• 13.  A Blind Beggar Woman 70
  

• 14.  A Young Married Shôp Woman 72
  

• 15.  *A Bulgarian Market Town 75
  

• 16.  Blessing the Lamb on St. George's Day 78
  

• 17.  *The Cathedral, Sofia 81
  

• 18.  *An Adrianople Street 88
  

• 19.  *The Shipka Pass 97
  

• 20.  A Young Widow at her Husband's Grave 104
  

• 21.  Gipsies 113
  

• 22.  A Peasant of the Tsaribrod District 120
  

• 23.  The Ratchenitza, the National Dance of Bulgaria 129
  

• 24.  A Bagpiper 136
  

• 25.  A Young Girl of Irn 145
  

• 26.  Guarding the Flocks and Herds; 152
  

• 27.  An Old Street in Philippopolis 161
  

• 28.  A Grave Question 168
  

• 29.  A Young Man of the Choumla District 177
  

• 30.  *A Bulgarian Farm 184
  

• 31.  A Young Woman of the Roustchouk District 193
  

• 32.  At the Well 200
  

Sketch Map at end of Volume.

BULGARIA

CHAPTER I

BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION

Instructed in the autumn of 1912 to join the Bulgarian army, then mobilising for war against Turkey, as war correspondent for the London Morning Post, I made my preparations with the thought uppermost that I was going to a cut-throat country where massacre was the national sport and human life was regarded with no sentimental degree of respect. The Bulgarians, a generation ago, had been paraded before the eyes of the British people by the fiery eloquence