form the large squares. Work a button-hole stitch at each crossing to make it firm. Now begin at the top, at the right side and fill the first square with Brussels net stitches, finishing at the lower left corner. Fill every alternate square in the same way as seen in the picture.

Now cross the open squares diagonally with two threads, twisting each thread around the adjoining one as represented. (Carry one thread across all the squares from corner to corner first, then twist back, fastening at the corner started from; cross these threads in the same way from the opposite direction). When twisting the thread back from the last set of crossings, make a rosette at each center crossing as follows: Keep the space open with a pin and trace round it with a darning movement five or six times; commence at the single thread and work a close button-hole stitch over the tracing entirely around, and then twist along the single thread to the center of the next square. This is a very effective design for spaces.

WHEELS AND ROSETTES.

Wheels and rosettes are used to fill up spaces, or in combination, to form lace.

No. 25.—Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.—This rosette is worked in a manner similar to the English wheel, the difference being that after each stitch is passed round and under the bars, the thread is passed loosely around in the reverse direction, as shown in the illustration, before proceeding to make the next stitch.

No. 25.—Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.

No. 26.—Mechlin Lace Wheels.—This is one of the prettiest stitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work correctly. It is made thus: Work a number of diagonal bars in button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin at the opposite side in the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spot where the two lines cross; pass the thread round the cross twice, under and over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch half of one-quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop held open by the pin, then take the pin out and continue as before. Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and parallel lines of thread.

No. 26.—Mechlin Lace Wheels.

No. 27.—English Wheel.

No. 27.—English Wheel.—This is worked in the same manner as Sorrento wheels, but instead of winding the thread over and under the bars, the needle is inserted under each bar, and brought out again between the thread and the last stitch; this produces a kind of button-hole stitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel.

Nos. 28 and 30.—Sorrento Wheel.—This is worked by fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled up, as indicated by the letters. Fasten it first to the place a, then at place b, carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar by winding it round; fasten again at c, carrying it back again to the center by winding it around the bar, and so on to all the letters; then work over and under the bars thus formed.

No. 28.—Sorrento Wheel.

No. 30.—Sorrento Wheel.

No. 29.—Close English Wheels.—These wheels may be used in open spaces and may be very easily made from the engraving. They are much like the wheels used in drawn work—indeed, many of the stitches used in lace are identical with those used in drawn-work.

No. 29.—Close English Wheels.

BARS AND PICOTS.

The word "Bar" is applied to the many stitches used to connect the various parts of point lace, and the beauty of the work depends greatly upon the class of bar selected and its suitability to the lace stitches used.

Nos. 31 and 32.—Raleigh Bars.—These bars are much used in making Battenburg lace and are very effective. They are worked over a foundation or net-work of coarse thread, and are twisted in places so that they will more easily fall into the desired form.

By following the numbering from 1 to 21, in No. 31, a square place may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form ground-work of any shape desired. Upon this ground-work tight point de Bruxelles stitches are made, and the dot worked upon these in one of the following ways:

No. 31.—Net-work for Working Raleigh Bars.

Dot or Picot.—First Method.—Make 5 tight point de Bruxelles stitches, 1 loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over the thread, as shown in point de Venise bars at No. 47, on page 18, and draw up, leaving a small, open loop as in tatting. Work 5 tight point de Bruxelles stitches, and repeat.

Second Method.—Proceed as above directed, but instead of continuing the tight stitches, work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed and repeat.

No. 32.—Raleigh Bars.

Third Method.—Work 4 tight point de Bruxelles stitches; 1 loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three or four times round the point (see No. 48, page 18), press the thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through the twists. This is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates most closely the real Spanish lace.

Illustration No. 48 shows how this stitch may also be applied as a regular ground-work, but the beauty of old point ground-work bars consists of variety in form.

No. 33.—Italian Ground Stitch.—Commence at the left side, and work as follows:

First row.—Make a loose button-hole stitch to form a loop a quarter of an inch wide, and then make a plain stitch into the loop to twist it, and continue to the end.

Second row.—Make two plain stitches into each loop, working back to the left.

Third row.—Repeat first row.

No. 33.—Italian Ground