a rising ground on the banks of the river, is the obelisk, backed by a very bold declivity.  Pursued the road till near it, quitted my chaise, and walked to the foot of it.  It is founded on a rock which rises boldly from the river.  It is a noble pillar, and admirably placed.  I seated myself on the opposite rock, and indulged the emotions which, with a melancholy not unpleasing, filled my bosom, while I reflected on the consequences that had sprung from the victory here obtained.  Liberty was then triumphant.  May the virtues of our posterity secure that prize which the bravery of their ancestors won!  Peace to the memory of the Prince to whom, whatever might be his failings, we owed that day memorable in the annals of Europe!

Returned part of the way, and took the road to Cullen, where the Lord Chief Baron Forster received me in the most obliging manner, and gave me a variety of information uncommonly valuable.  He has made the greatest improvements I have anywhere met with.  The whole country twenty-two years ago was a waste sheep-walk, covered chiefly with heath, with some dwarf furze and fern.  The cabins and people as miserable as can be conceived; not a Protestant in the country, nor a road passable for a carriage.  In a word, perfectly resembling other mountainous tracts,

and the whole yielding a rent of not more than from three shillings to four shillings an acre.  Mr. Forster could not bear so barren a property, and determined to attempt the improvement of an estate of five thousand acres till then deemed irreclaimable.  He encouraged the tenants by every species of persuasion and expense, but they had so ill an opinion of the land that he was forced to begin with two or three thousand acres in his own hands; he did not, however, turn out the people, but kept them in to see the effects of his operations.

To Dundalk.  The view down on this town also very beautiful: swelling hills of a fine verdure, with many rich inclosures backed by a bold outline of mountain that is remarkable.  Laid at the Clanbrassil Arms, and found it a very good inn.  The place, like most of the Irish towns I have been in, full of new buildings, with every mark of increasing wealth and prosperity.  A cambric manufacture was established here by Parliament, but failed; it was, however, the origin of that more to the north.

July 22.  Left Dundalk, took the road through Ravensdale to Mr. Fortescue, to whom I had a letter, but unfortunately he was in the South of Ireland.  Here I saw many good stone and slate houses, and some bleach greens; and I was much pleased to see the inclosures creeping high up the sides of the mountains, stony as they are.  Mr. Fortescue’s situation is very

romantic—on the side of a mountain, with fine wood hanging on every side, with the lawn beautifully scattered with trees spreading into them, and a pretty river winding through the vale, beautiful in itself, but trebly so on information that before he fixed there it was all a wild waste.  Rents in Ravensdale ten shillings; mountain land two shillings and sixpence to five shillings.  Also large tracts rented by villages, the cottars dividing it among themselves, and making the mountain common for their cattle.

Breakfasted at Newry—the Globe, another good inn.  This town appears exceedingly flourishing, and is very well built; yet forty years ago, I was told, there were nothing but mud cabins in it.  This great rise has been much owing to the canal to Loch Neagh.  I crossed it twice; it is indeed a noble work.  I was amazed to see ships of one hundred and fifty tons and more lying in it, like barges in an English canal.  Here is a considerable trade.

Reached Armagh in the evening, and waited on the Primate.

July 23.  His Grace rode out with me to Armagh, and showed me some of the noble and spirited works by which he has perfectly changed the face of the neighbourhood.  The buildings he has erected in seven years, one would suppose, without previous information, to be the work of an active life.  A list of them will justify this observation.

He has erected a very elegant palace, ninety feet by sixty, and forty high, in which an unadorned simplicity reigns.  It is light and pleasing, without the addition of wings or lesser parts, which too frequently wanting a sufficient uniformity with the body of the edifice, are unconnected with it in effect, and divide the attention.  Large and ample offices are conveniently placed behind a plantation at a small distance.  Around the palace is a large lawn, which spreads on every side over the hills, and is skirted by young plantations, in one of which is a terrace, which commands a most beautiful view of cultivated hill and dale.  The view from the palace is much improved by the barracks, the school, and a new church at a distance, all which are so placed as to be exceedingly ornamental to the whole country.

The barracks were erected under his Grace’s directions, and form a large and handsome edifice.  The school is a building of considerable extent, and admirably adapted for the purpose: a more convenient or a better contrived one is nowhere to be seen.  There are apartments for a master, a school-room fifty-six feet by twenty-eight, a large dining-room, and spacious, airy dormitories, with every other necessary, and a spacious playground walled in; the whole forming a handsome front: and attention being paid to the residence of the master (the salary is four hundred pounds a year), the school flourishes, and must prove one of the greatest advantages to the country

of anything that could have been established.  This edifice entirely at the Primate’s expense.  The church is erected of white stone, and having a tall spire makes a very agreeable object in a country where churches and spires do not abound—at least, such as are worth looking at.  Three other churches the Primate has also built, and done considerable reparations to the cathedral.

He has been the means also of erecting a public infirmary, which was built by subscription, contributing amply to it himself.

A public library he has erected at his own expense, given a large collection of books, and endowed it.  The room is excellently adapted, forty-five feet by twenty-five, and twenty high, with a gallery, and apartments for a librarian.

He has further ornamented the city with a market-house and shambles, and been the direct means, by giving leases upon that condition, of almost new-building the whole place.  He found it a nest of mud cabins, and he will leave it a well-built city of stone and slate.  I heard it asserted in common conversation that his Grace, in these noble undertakings, had not expended less than thirty thousand pounds, besides what he had been the means of doing, though not directly at his own expense.

In the evening reached Mr. Brownlow’s at Lurgan, to whom I am indebted for some valuable information. 

This gentleman has made very great improvements in his domain.  He has a lake at the bottom of a slight vale, and around are three walks, at a distance from each other; the centre one is the principal, and extends two miles.  It is well conducted for leading to the most agreeable parts of the grounds, and for commanding views of Loch Neagh, and the distant country.  There are several buildings, a temple, green-house, etc.  The most beautiful scene is from a bench on a gently swelling hill, which rises almost on every side from the water.  The wood, the water, and the green slopes, here unite to form a very pleasing landscape.  Let me observe one thing much