to a 16-in. square. The rails are not to be squared on the ends but are to be mitered each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts by metal brackets.

Detail of the Sewing Box

Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom may be inserted. Insert the corners and use glue and nails to hold them in place. Place the lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts as is necessary to bring the inner edge of these rails in position. Fasten to the posts. Miter and place the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened to the bottom from the outer side and to the lower of the two top rails from the inner side. Brass-headed tacks such as upholsterers use are required.

In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a coat of boiled linseed oil. Allow this to stand a half hour or so and then wipe the surface clean. After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating of shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac when hard with No. 00 sandpaper and then apply several coats of wax, polishing in the usual manner.

Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with which the box may be moved about.

A FERN STAND

When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying sketch use quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the different mission stains. Considerable labor can be saved in its construction by ordering the stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Order the following pieces:

• 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
• 8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S.
• 1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S.
• 16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.

The legs are made first. Be sure they are square and of equal length. The mortises can be laid out and cut or they can be left until the tenons on the side rails are all made, then marked and cut from each tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly alike for the four sides, as the table is square. In addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves should be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into as shown in the cross section in the detail drawing. Holes should be cut in the slats as shown.

Detail of the Fern Stand

The top board should have the corners cut out to fit around the posts. It is held in place by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides of the top rails.

The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails that are mortised into the posts as shown. The top and bottom boards should be of one piece if possible, otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together.

Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces fit together square and tight. The posts and rails should be glued and assembled, then the top and bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the clamps are put on.

Finished Stand in Quartered Oak

Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing the clamps. Fasten the top and bottom boards in place and then go over the stand with fine sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.

A WARDROBE

The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing will be found a great convenience in a bedroom where closet space is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides ample room for hanging suits, dresses and other wearing apparel, as well as space for boots and shoes. It can be made of any of the several furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way much labor will be saved. The following pieces will be needed:

• 4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
• 1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
• 1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S.
• 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S.
• 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S.
• 1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S.
• 4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.
• 2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S.
• 8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood.
• 2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
• 2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood.
• 4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood.
• 3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood.
• 2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
• 2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
• 1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
• 1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.