shown in section BB. Care should be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same height. This is best done by placing the four legs side by side with the ends square, and then laying out the mortises across all four at once with a try-square.

The Finished Library Table

The table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued together. Be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out for the posts as shown. The posts are to be fastened to the board by means of screws. The holes can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged. The top rails are also fastened to the top board by means of screws.

The end pieces can now be made. Two or more boards will have to be glued together for these. The top corners will have to be cut to fit about the top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to the top board. The shelves also have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in the posts. They are held to the end boards by means of screws.

If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, they can be glued and screwed together, which will complete the table except for the slats and drawers. The slats can be fastened on with nails, then the heads covered with fancy nails which can be secured for this purpose. The drawer supports can now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards as shown. A bottom brace should be fastened under the lower shelves to help steady the table. The two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch. No handles are needed as the lower edge of the front board can be used for pulling them out.

When the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper and all rough spots removed. Scrape the glue from about the joints as finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply the stain preferred or the one that matches the other furniture. This can be any of the many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A PRINCESS DRESSER

Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak

A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be as follows:

• 4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
• 1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.
• 5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.
• 1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
• 2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
• 2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.
• 2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
• 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.
• 1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.

The following pieces may be of any soft wood:

• 5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.
• 6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.
• 2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.
• 1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.
• 4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and then marked and cut directly from each tenon. The posts as well as the end rails should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. end panels.

The top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts. The corners of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing.

The end sections of the dresser can be glued together first, care being taken to get the joints square and tight. When these are dry the side rails and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. The top board is held in position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides of the rails.

Detail of the Princess Dresser

The mirror frame is made by mortising the end pieces with the side pieces as shown. It is rabbeted on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in. mirror. After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame a thin wood covering should be tacked on the back to protect the glass. The frame swings between two upright posts which are securely fastened to the body of the dresser as shown.

The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner. The drawing shows two drawers in the top compartment, but one exactly like the lower can be made and used instead by simply leaving out the 1 in. partition. Suitable handles for the drawers can be purchased at any hardware store.

The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from about the joints as the stain will not take where there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper and apply the stain desired, which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A SEWING BOX

A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite as convenient as unique, is shown in the illustration. The material is walnut and ash. The posts are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are finished in their natural colors. The following is the stock bill:

• 4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut.
• 1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut.
• 4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash.
• 4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut.
• 72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.

In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine the lengths of pieces having like widths and thicknesses.

If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter indicated for the verticals, it is an easy matter to take a square piece of stock, lay it off and work it into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises may again be planed until it has 16 and then 32 sides. The rest may be removed with sandpaper. Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will be available. Saw these posts to length and leave the ends square.

Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash

Square up the stock for the other parts. Work the bottom piece