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قراءة كتاب How to Make a Shoe

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How to Make a Shoe

How to Make a Shoe

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دار النشر: Project Gutenberg
الصفحة رقم: 6

The last we put upon a side
Of white or red sole leather,
And mark with knife, or pencil wide,
The parts of sole together.

The parts are known, each one defined,
Inner and outer sole;
A middle one, when we are kind,
Lifts and shank piece make the whole.

[p74]
The inner sole pegged to the last


[p75]
The inner sole on the last is put,
The pegs just where you see
Keep the sole where it belongs,
In order to agree.

The edge is bevelled from heel to heel;
The mark across the breast
Shows us when and where we may
Take a little rest.

[p76]
Placing the upper over the last


[p77]
The upper straight upon the last,
With the seams appearing right,
The stiffening smooth just at the back,
Will draw upon our sight.

This should be done when we begin
To draw the upper over,
So that the last in all its parts
Shall have a proper cover.

[p78]
Drawing the upper over the last


[p79]
Draw steady, until we have it close
At the heel and at the toe;
If these parts should be too loose
It would nearly spoil the shoe.

Draw steady, or you’ll make a crack,
Which will there remain;
Perhaps may cause us to go back,
And do it over again.

[p80]
Fastening the upper to the sole


[p81]
The upper, in the way described,
Drawn gently at the toe,
We hold it down with our left thumb,
While a peg we try make go.

On either side of the toe now work,
And in the same way fasten
The upper down upon the sole;
To the heel we now must hasten.

[p82]
Tacking the upper at the seam


[p83]
Let the upper at the seam
Have now a secure tack;
The stiffening, all straight in between
The lining and the back.
Be sure you get the lining smooth,
The part inside the shoe;
If it is not, you may sometime
Have a thing to make you blue.

[p84]
Closing the front


[p85]
Now put the shoe upon the bench,
In the way shown in the cut;
And with a string and button
Use care to close the front.

We no doubt now do see the thing
Taking on a shape,
Which, in the end, will surely bring
Us clear out of the scrape.

[p86]
The shoe now placed on the jack


[p87]
The shoe is now placed on the jack;
A hole, for the pin in the last,
Serves to keep the same intact,
While the toe piece holds it fast.

Now at the breast, draw over outside,
Close upon the sole;
Take your time, for something’s gained,
While filling up the hole.

The awl, you see, should not be large;
In lasting use small pegs;
Just drive them through the inner sole,
No danger of your legs.

[p88]
Using the thumbs while lasting


[p89]
We will now note the difference:
The inside shank is longer;
If we would last it very smooth,
We must pull all the stronger.
The thumbs at this are very clever,
When their part is nicely played,
Serving as a splendid lever,
While working in the shade.

[p90]

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