id="Fig_7"/> Fig. 7.—Steel tub on legs.

The Wash Bowl.—Succeeding the hand basin the first wash basins used in this country were made of marble or slate, with a round bowl of crockery. The bowl was 14 inches in diameter originally, but later was changed to an oval bowl. Like the bath tub these wash stands were encased in wood, the encasing being used to support the marble top. Ornamental brackets were introduced and the wood encasement done away with.

Fig. 8.—Modern built-in tub.

Fig. 9.—Encased wash bowl.

About 1902 the iron-enamelled lavatory appeared on the market and drove all other kinds from the market at once. The reason for this is clear. The marble stands were absorbent and were made with three parts, top, back, and bowl; the enamelled iron lavatory is made all in one piece of material non-absorbent. A study of the illustrations will show clearly how the lavatory has been improved. Strange to say, in all plumbing fixtures, and especially the lavatory, as improvements were made to make them more sanitary a reduction has been made in the price of an individual fixture.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.—Bath room of early 80's. All fixtures are enclosed.

The development of the urinal, showers, wash trays, drinking fountains and other fixtures I will not attempt to cover. As the demand has been evident for fixtures of certain types, the plumber has been alert to anticipate and supply it. There is need, however, for improvement in all our fixtures, especially that part which connects with the waste pipes, also the hanging, that is the arrangement or lack of arrangement for hanging fixtures to the wall. The waste and overflow of all fixtures need considerable change to make them sanitary. The opportunity is, therefore, before anyone who will apply himself to this development. Much money, thought, and time have been spent by the manufacturers of iron enamelled ware and by the potteries to gather suggestions made by the plumber in regard to fixtures, and then to perfect them. To these manufacturers is due the beautiful design, stability, and perfect sanitary material which make up our plumbing fixtures of today.

Fig. 12.

CHAPTER II

The Use and Care of the Soldering Iron. Fluxes. Making Different Soldering Joints

The Soldering Iron.—The soldering iron is one of the first tools a plumber has to master. This tool is sometimes called a "copper bit" as it is made of copper; and so throughout this book the words "soldering iron," "copper bit," "iron," and "bit" are used synonymously. There are several different-shaped irons in common use today, but an iron shaped like the one in Fig. 13 is the one for use in the following work. Take the iron as it is purchased, having a wooden handle and the copper exposed on pointed end. Before it can be used the point must be faced and tinned. To do this, proceed as follows:

1. First, heat the iron on the furnace.
2. Second, place in vise and file the four surfaces of the point.
3. Third, run a file over edges and point.
4. Fourth, heat the iron until it will melt solder.
5. Fifth, put 6 or 8 drops of solder and a piece of rosin the size of a chestnut on an ordinary red brick. (This rosin is called a flux.)
6. Sixth, take the hot iron and melt the solder and rosin on the brick.
7. Seventh, rub the four surfaces of the point of the iron on the brick keeping the point in the melted solder.

Fig. 13.—Copper.

The solder will soon stick to the copper surfaces and then the iron is ready for use.

Another way to tin the iron that is in common use is to rub the point of a hot iron on a piece of sal-ammoniac, or dip the hot iron in reduced muriatic acid, then rub the stick of solder on the iron. The use of muriatic acid in tinning the iron is not recommended. In the first place, it is not always possible to carry it, and in the second place it eats holes in the surface of iron, which makes it necessary to file and smooth the surfaces again. The constant use of muriatic acid on the copper soon wears it away and makes it unfit for use. Rosin is easily carried and applied and is by far the best to use in regular work.

Points to Remember in the Care of the Soldering Iron.—

1. First, proper tinning is absolutely necessary for rapid and good work.
2. Second, do not allow the iron to heat red hot.
3. Third, keep the point of the iron properly shaped.
4. Fourth, use the same flux in tinning as is to be used in soldering.
5. Fifth, when filing iron, file as little as possible.
6. Sixth, keep in use two irons of the same size.

FLUX

A flux is used to clean the surfaces of joints and seams to be soldered, also to