manure pile.

If the soil is wet, or of a heavy nature, it would be better that the bed be made entirely upon the surface. If the situation is a dry one, and the soil gravelly or sandy, then a pit may be excavated, of the size of the intended frame, and three feet in depth. A hollow brick wall should be built up from the bottom, six inches above the surface, if it is intended that the bed should be permanent; otherwise the excavation may be lined with boards, or if designed for only a season's use, it may be left without any support. Hot-beds made under ground require less material, are more lasting in their heat, and require less attention than those built on the surface. On the contrary, should the heat fail from any cause, beds built up on the surface possess the advantage of being more easily renewed by the application of fresh fermenting materials, or "linings" as they are usually termed.

About the 20th of February is early enough, in this latitude, to gather and prepare materials for the hot-bed. Fresh stable manure alone may be used, though preference is generally given to a mixture, in equal proportions, of manure and forest leaves. Place on the ground, (under a shed if possible,) a layer of leaves one foot thick, and on this a foot of manure, then leaves and manure alternately until the required quantity is obtained. Let this heap remain four or five days, or until it begins to heat, then turn over and thoroughly mix the leaves and manure together, and throw them up into a compact, conical heap. In four or five days more your materials will be ready for your bed. Mark off your intended site, running as nearly east and west as practicable. Your frame should be about six feet wide and of any required length. The manure bed should extend a foot outside the frame on the sides and ends. See Figure 1, in which a is the manure heap.