position that valve "C" is also in closed position, proving out the latter feature by loosening connection of valve "C" lever holding long connecting rod; holding Throttle Lever "L" in closed or idling position and bringing up valve "C" lever on connecting rod "R" as far as it will go to the right toward the carbureter and tightening its connection on the connecting rod in that position. After having made the adjustment as just described, it is assured that "Heat Setting No. 1" has been properly made and that all of the heat possible from the exhaust has been secured.

This "Heat Setting No. 1," provides as stated, for the most exhaust heat obtainable and should be used during the entire year, except in extremely hot seasons or hot climates or when high-test gasoline is being used in engine and even then unless engine is losing power due to excessive heat.

If loss of power or mileage due to too much heat is experienced, first be sure that it is not due to driving on hot-air instead of cold-air. After making this observation, if there is still too much heat, refer to cut (See Page 7) describing "Heat Setting No. 2." It will be noted that connecting rod "R" from valve "C" is removed from "Hole No. 1," in Throttle Lever "L" and placed in "Hole No. 2," in Throttle Lever. This change is all that is necessary in order to reduce the amount of heat applied to carbureter. In "Heat Setting No. 2," when the throttle is in closed or idling position, valve "C" is quite aways off its seat. This adjustment provides for a great deal less heat than is provided by "Heat Setting No. 1" and is all that is required in the reduction of the volume of heat together with driving on "Cold" air for the main-air-supply, in the warmest weather or hottest climates.

HEAT SETTING No. 2

NOTE—After original position of valve "C" is made as described in "Heat Setting No. 1" do not again readjust valve "C" on connecting rod but when changing from "Heat Setting No. 1" to "Heat Setting No. 2," merely change position of long connecting rod from "Hole No. 1" to "Hole No. 2" in throttle lever.

ADJUSTMENT

No change should be made in the carbureter adjustments until after an inspection has been made to determine if the trouble is in some other unit. It should be noted that the gasoline lines are clear, that there is gasoline in the vacuum tank, that there are no leaks at connections between carbureter and engine, that the ignition system is in proper condition, and that there is even compression in all cylinders.

If it is necessary to test adjustment or to make a readjustment proceed as follows:

Set air screw so that the end is flush with the end of ratchet set spring. Loosen packing nut on needle adjustment. Turn gasoline adjustment to the right very carefully so as not to injure the needle point, until the valve is closed gently against its seat. Then turn to left approximately one complete turn which will bring notch in the disc handle directly below the guide post above it. Tighten packing nut to hold needle firmly as set.

The notch in disc handle of needle is put in handle after the needle has been carefully calibrated by a flow-meter at the factory, therefore the notch in handle should register with guide post above it. This setting of needle valve is absolutely essential to get the best results. The object in directing that needle be first turned to the right until closed is to insure against two or more turns open, as from closed position to notch (usually about one turn) is the normal setting. This being true it is not necessary to turn needle in to the right firmly but merely far enough to be sure that when turning back to the left, to the notch registering with guide post, that the needle is not