tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">Fig. 8 there is a load water-line, which the vessel sinks to when loaded, and the second and first load water-line, which the vessel sinks to when only partially loaded or when carrying no load aside from its regular necessary equipment. The keel line of the boat is the line that runs along the bottom from bow to stern. (The bow of the boat is the front and the stern the back.)

Motor-boating and marine magazines often publish the lines of different boats, and if the young boat-builder understands how to read boat drawings he will be able to make a model of any boat that is so described.

Directions will now be given regarding the method of producing a boat-hull similar to the lines shown in Figs. 7 and 8, by the built-up method of construction.

First, it will be necessary to procure the lumber. Several clean white pine boards will be very suitable to work with, and will not require much skill in handling. Let us assume that the boat-hull is to measure 22 inches in length, with a depth of 4 inches. The beam, which is the width of the boat at its widest point, will be 5 inches. (It will be well to remember what the term "beam" means, since the term will be used constantly throughout the book.)

On a piece of heavy wrapping-paper draw the deck plan full size, that is, 22 inches long by 5 inches at its widest point. Next cut out along the pencil line with a pair of shears. Now lay the paper outline on a plank and mark out the pattern on the wood. Repeat this process with three more planks. When this is done, cut out the boards with a keyhole saw.

After the boards are cut out mark them as shown in Fig. 11. The space marked out on the board must be sawed out in two of the boards, to form the inside of the hull, if the boat is to carry some form of power, such as a battery-motor, or steam-engine. After the lines are marked out, make a hole with a ³/₄-inch bit, as shown in Fig. 12. Insert the point of the keyhole saw in one of these holes to start it and cut out the piece. Treat the second board in the same way. The third board must have a smaller portion cut out of the center, owing to the fact that this board is nearer the bottom of the hull, where the width of the boat is narrower. The width of the piece cut out in the third board should not be more than 2 inches.

When this work is done, a very thin layer of glue is placed over the boards, and they are then laid one on top of another. The boards are then placed in a vise or clamp and allowed to remain there over night. In applying the glue, the builder should be careful not to put too much on the boards. Too much glue is worse than not enough. It should be merely a thin film.

After the boards have been glued together the crude hull will appear, as shown in Fig. 13 .

At this point the hull sections from 0 to 10 must be marked off. By referring again to Fig. 7 it will be seen that the sections 0 to 1 and 9 to 10 are not so far apart as the other sections. Section 0 is 1 inch from the bow of the boat and section 1 is 1 inch from section 0. Sections 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 are all 1 inch apart. Section 9 is 1 inch from 10 and 10 is 1 inch from the stern. Lines should be drawn across the deck to correspond with these sections, which can be measured off with a ruler. It will now be necessary to cut some templates, or forms, from cardboard to guide the builder in bringing the hull to shape. It will be an easy matter to make these templates by following Fig. 8. A template of section 9 is shown in Fig. 14. It will be necessary to make eleven templates, corresponding to the sections 0 to 10. The templates should be cut from heavy cardboard so they will hold their shapes.

The hull of the boat is now placed in a vise and roughly brought to shape with a draw-knife. After it has been brought to shape by this means a spoke-shave is used. This little tool has an adjustable blade by means of which it is possible to regulate the cut. When the builder starts to use the spoke-shave he should also start to use his templates or forms, applying them sectionally to determine how much more wood he will have to remove to bring the hull to shape. For instance, when he is working in the vicinity of sections 5, 6, and 7 he will apply these forms at the proper points occasionally to determine when enough wood has been removed. This procedure is followed out the entire length of the boat, care being taken to see that both sides are the same and that too much wood is not removed, since there is no remedy for this mistake. The builder who proceeds carefully and is not in too great a hurry to finish the work need not make this mistake.

Of course, it will not be possible to bring the hull to a perfect finish with a spoke-shave. This can be done, however, by the use of a coarse file and sandpaper. The coarse file is used to take the rough marks of the spoke-shave away, and the marks left by the file are in turn removed by the sandpaper. The sandpaper must be applied unsparingly and always with the grain. It will be necessary to use considerable "elbow grease" to obtain a good finish.

Boat-hulls can also be hewn to shape from a solid block, but it will be understood that this method involves more work than the one just described. Of course, the procedure of bringing the hull to shape by the aid of the draw-knife, spoke-shave, and