moisture but not stagnant water. Whatever the character of the ground, spade it deep so that it may be mellow, and make it very rich. If the ground is to be spaded a foot deep, a 3-inch layer of rotted manure is about right to dig in. Rotted manure does not mean fresh or lumpy manure. It means that the fertilizing element shall have been rotted until ready to drop to pieces. Stable manure is too fiery. Cow manure over a year old is best. Many expert Aster growers scatter an inch of unleached hardwood ashes over the bed before it is broken up and spade it in with the manure. They claim it both suits the Aster and helps to keep off root-lice.

It is usual to plant tall or half dwarf varieties in the center of the beds, and use some of the dwarf Asters for an outside row or border. The tall kinds should stand 10 to 12 inches apart in the row. The dwarf ones about 8 inches apart. Asters make a sightly bed because of the uniform height of each class and because of their blooming at the same time.

Hot dry soil quickly spoils Asters. About July mulch them well.

Two inches of coarse manure spread out well over their roots is the best mulch of all, as every rain washes nutrition from it down to the roots below. Chip dirt, pine needles, or grass clippings will do, or anything else that is light, yet will let the rains or waterings leach through. No one who has not actually tried it can know of the help a mulch really is to Asters. I doubt whether first-class flowers can be obtained in dry, windy countries, or in hot, sun-scorched valleys without its aid. Asters love the sun, nevertheless unless their feet are kept cool and moist they inevitably burn and wilt. A mulch keeps the ground cool, and it keeps it moist also.

I know of Asters that gained the prizes at county fairs that were regularly soaked once a week with the suds from the weekly washing. In most climates a thorough drenching of the ground once a week will promote a luxuriant growth of the plants. There is nothing gained by watering in dry weather unless the ground is mulched. Without this protection the ground will bake as hard as a brick and the plants suffer more than if no water had been given. In some sections hot dry winds prevail through August and September. This is most trying to Asters. If there is a tank, or system of water works, a good sprinkling, not only to the roots but of the foliage as well, will revive them wonderfully. Use the hose about sunset. By morning the plants will be entirely revived.

The red spider and aphis have no special fondness for the Aster. They get after it when it comes in their way, as they do anything else. But the Aster has two implacable enemies that by their ravages have done more to discourage people from growing these plants than all other causes combined. These two foes are blister beetles and root lice.

Red spider bothers in hot dry weather. Water is their foe. When the familiar thin, half-dying foliage appears, grey on the under-side and showing a few fine webs underneath, there is no mistaking the signs. It is the red spider. If a hose is used in the garden, turn the water on under a full head, directing it to the under-side of the leaves where the invisible pests have their colonies. Never mind if it does bend the plants by the force of the stream. They can be straightened afterwards. Play up and down, under and all around. If well done, and the deed repeated a couple of days after, they will have been killed. If no hose is available, use a sprinkler, dashing the water on with all the force possible.

Aphis is the common plant louse. Some use tobacco stems as a mulch about Asters instead of manure. Tobacco factories and dealers in florist's supplies sell these at low prices, as it is the refuse material left after manufacturing tobacco for smoking and chewing. Where these can be obtained it is a sure preventative not only against aphis but almost any other insect.

Other remedies for aphis are spraying with a hard stream of water. Two or three thorough applications will finish them. Kerosene emulsion will kill them. So will insect powder if it has not become stale, and if used on a still, calm day when there is no air stirring to revive its suffocated victims.

The blister beetle or aster beetle comes along when the plants are in bloom or in bud. They are half to three-quarters of an inch long, black with grey stripes down their back. Oh! how they devour all before them! Out of the unknown they come, hordes of them. They tarry but two or three days, and leave but bare stalks behind them, every bed, every flower, and every leaf eaten off.

The remedy is to fight them.

QUILLED GERMAN ASTER

When the lytta, alias blister beetle, arrives, prepare to give a warm welcome to him and all of his kind. There are several methods of doing this. Any of them must be repeated two or three times a day, for there seem to be successive waves of the beetles. In a few days the danger is past.

My own method is to get a helper, and, taking one plant at a time, knock the beetles off and kill them with a stick. It is a joy to look upon the heaps of slain when all is done. Whenever the plant upon which it is is jarred in the slightest, this beetle falls to the ground exactly as though it were dead. Only for a second, however, then it runs for dear life. That is why it takes more than one person, for it's no child's play to kill a score of scampering bugs in a quarter of a minute.

My other half's way is to get a fresh supply of insect powder (Dalmation, Persian, Bubach, etc., whatever name it may be sold under) and squirt it thickly over the bugs by the use of one of those 10-cent powder guns that all druggists keep. It is effective if the insect powder is fresh.

Other remedies are to put netting over the bed; to spray the plants with poisoned water, made by stirring 1 teaspoonful of Paris green into 2 gallons of water; and to use kerosene emulsion. The last is made after this formula: 1 tablespoonful of kerosene beaten up with half a cupful of milk. Dilute with 2 gallons of water.

Do not forget that any remedy must be used two or three times a day while the raid is on.

Root-lice, blue aphis, etc., is one of the most common enemies of the Aster. When the plants are almost at their best the tops turn a peculiar sickly green, or they wilt, or become brown. They die quickly unless something is at once done. Pull one up and the roots are found alive with a little insect that looks like a plant louse. Insecticides poured on the soil rarely kill the pests. A bed that has been ashed, or had a mulching of tobacco stems, as has already been advised, will have escaped.

Where the root lice have already commenced, Rexford recommends drawing the dirt away until the roots are exposed, then sifting tobacco dust thickly over them replacing the soil afterwards. Others recommend flooding the bed with kerosene emulsion in the same way. While some have success, others claim failure by either of these methods. Here is a way of dealing with root lice, however, that is always sure.

Heat a lot of water. Then pull up every affected plant, shake the dirt off their roots, and dip them quickly into scalding water. Leave them in but a second, but dip their roots two or three times to make sure every bug gets its dose. Pour