training. {ix} This book is so written that the easier flies to make are the first encountered. Although you may not expect to use Bucktail Streamers, the fundamental principles employed in their construction, the knack of handling fur, feathers and tinsel, will be acquired, and a sense of proportion will be realized. I sincerely encourage you to begin at the beginning, and by careful and patient study the satisfactory result will be the ability to make flies that are second to none.

The illustrations in this book are all drawn to correct proportions except the tying silk, which is purposely drawn large for clearness of illustration. Follow these illustrations, and begin by making a very careful study of Diagram 3, "Bucktails" (page 15). Here will be learned how to overcome some of the difficulties encountered by beginners. Many of the fundamentals learned in tying Bucktails are used in tying all of the flies to follow. For instance, in putting the wings or tail on a wet fly, the same method of holding the wing between the thumb and finger and making the loose loop, are explained as when putting the hair or tail on a Bucktail. Putting the wings on a fly correctly seems to be the greatest difficulty encountered by the beginner. Consequently, the necessity of carefully studying Figs. 4, 5, 10, and 11 of Diagram 3 cannot be too greatly emphasized. Before tying any other part of the fly, place a bare hook in the vise, and practice tying on the tail, {x} and then the wings, until you have mastered this knack, and have the wings and tail setting straight on top of the hook, as in Figs. 4, 5, 10 and 11 of Diagram 3. First using hair and then a section of feather.

Other faults of the beginner where literal descriptions are followed entirely or where illustrations are not drawn to correct proportions or followed closely are as follows. The wings are usually too large, and much too long for the size of the hook, and the tail is most always too long, as are the hackles. The bodies seldom have a nicely tapered shape, and most always start too far back on the hook shank. The ribbing is seldom put on in even tight spirals. The hair on hair flies is always too long, and too much is used. The head is too large, because the tying silk is not wound tightly and smoothly. The eye of the hook on the finished fly is filled with hair, tying silk, hackles and cement.

I do not mean to criticize these common mistakes of the beginner. Instead, I merely wish to call them to your mind, and assure you that they are not necessary, and will not happen if you will diligently follow instructions in this book.

{xi}

Diagram2

{xii}

Tools two-thirds actual size

{1}

TOOLS, HOOKS AND
MATERIALS

Very few tools are required by the Fly-Tier. Those that are necessary are inexpensive, and most of them can be homemade. However, as with any other craft good tools are an asset. I advise the beginner to procure the following:

TOOLS

Fly-Tiers' vise. There are many styles of fly-tying vises on the market. The simplest is just a slot cut in a 3/8" piece of square steel with a hacksaw, and a thumb screw to tighten the slot. This type of vise will work all right, although rather clumsy and hard to tighten enough to hold the hook truly. Another simple vise is just a small pin chuck, soldered to one end of a 1/4" brass rod, bent at the desired angle, and the other end of the rod soldered to a small C clamp. However, I prefer a vise of the cam lever type. That is, a vise that has a cam lever for opening and closing the jaws. These vises, of which there are several makes, are {2} adjustable to various angles and hook sizes. They will hold all sizes of hooks very firmly, and are easily and quickly opened with a flip of the lever.

Hackle Pliers. These can be purchased for about fifty cents and will prove a worthwhile investment, as they are rather difficult to make satisfactorily.

Scissors. One pair with curved blades and sharp points for small flies and one pair with small straight blades. A needle pushed into a stick, for picking out hackles that are wound under, and for putting lacquer on the finished head, completes the list of necessary tools.

HOOKS

Hooks used for fly-tying differ somewhat from those used for bait fishing etc., inasmuch as they are usually hollow ground, and tapered shank especially those used for dry flies. The tapered shank next to the eye allows the head of the fly to be tied smaller, and also reduces the weight of the hook, an advantage for dry flies. Of course flies may be tied on any style or grade of hook, but considering the work involved in making the fly, and realizing that with an old razor blade the fly can be quickly removed from the hook should the first attempts prove unsatisfactory, you will see the advantage in using good hooks.

{3}

Various styles of hooks used for fly-tying--actual size

MATERIALS

{4}

Materials used by the Fly-Tier cover an extremely large field. Although only a few simple and easily obtained items are necessary for a start, it is interesting to know that furs, feathers and body materials come from all parts of the world. There's the jungle cock from India whose neck feathers are extensively used on salmon flies and a very large percentage of all fancy flies. The golden pheasant from China, the bustard from Africa, the Mandarin wood duck from China, the capercailzie from Ireland, the game cocks from Spain and the Orient, the teal, mallard, grouse, ibis, swan, turkey, and hundreds of others. The polar bear, Impala, North and South American deer, seal, black bear, skunk, rabbit, squirrel, are a few of the hairs that are used. The beginner need not worry about the great variety. Some hooks, silk floss and spun fur or wool yarn and chenille for bodies, a few sizes of tinsel for ribbing, bucktails of three or four colors, an assortment of duck and turkey wing quills some mallard breast, an assortment of neck and saddle hackles, a spool of tying silk, a piece of wax, a bottle of head lacquer, and many of the popular patterns can be made. Numerous other items can be added from time to time, and the novice Fly-Tier will soon find himself in possession of a collection of fuzzy furs and feathers that will delight the heart of any professional, and from which any conceivable lure can be made to attract the denizens of the shady pools.

{5}

Body materials two-thirds actual size

{6}

BODY MATERIAL: Tinsel, Silk Floss, Fur, Chenille, Wool, Quill and Cork are used for bodies. The most commonly used for Bucktail Streamers is flat tinsel ribbed with oval tinsel or no ribbing at all. About the easiest body to make is one of chenille ribbed with tinsel. Silk floss is mostly