home quick enough to suit me.

I had always wanted to catch a fox so bad and I thought the time had come. I set them as well as I could and covered them up good, as I thought, and went home. It seemed to me that morning would never come. I knew I was going to have a fox, so I was up early and started after it. When I got almost to the bait I saw new tracks going towards the horse and that made my heart beat a little faster, as I was sure I had one, but they had gone as near as three feet and that was as near as they would go. They knew the traps were there as well as I did, and they never went there as long as my traps were set.

CHAPTER V.
TRAPS AND HINTS.

My idea is that manufacturers make traps too strong for the animal it is made for, says C. F. Keith. Now the No. 2 is too strong for fox, and also it is very hard to conceal from view.

Of course if you get a fox in a No. 2 you are more sure than if he is caught in a No. 1 1/2 or smaller. I use the No. 1 1/2 Newhouse for fox and I find it the best fox trap made. I have also used the Jump and the Blake & Lamb, but I do not like them as well. Some trappers think that the Blake & Lamb are the best mink traps made. I beg leave to differ with them, for the simple reason that I have lost many a mink by the trap cutting off the leg and the mink escaping, which never happens with the Newhouse.

The Blake & Lamb trap are, without doubt, the best trap to conceal, but when it comes to be the best trap it is not in it with the Newhouse. I think if trappers would use long chains when using clogs, they would have better luck in trapping the fox. The kind of traps I use are the No. 1 1/2 Newhouse for fox, with four foot chains. When I first began to trap fox I used cheap traps, and many a fox have I lost by not knowing enough to use good traps. By all means, trappers, buy good traps in the first place and you will not be sorry.

SILVER AND BLACK FOX SKINS.

Now let me first give you a few pointers on fox trapping. First, forget everything you have bought from humbugs and use common sense; second, study the habits of the fox and you will have better success. Third, be sure and have your traps in proper shape so the fox can't smell the iron; fourth, be careful in making a set, use the wooden paddle or gloved hand in placing dirt over trap; fifth, be sure that your bait is not scented with human scent, and use cat, skunk, or muskrat scents.

I have bought scent for many years, but the best scent I can find is skunk essence or oil of anise. Skunk essence and honey equal parts, but never use skunk essence in early winter, as it will be a failure. I have trapped fox for many years and I am very successful and lucky, and every fall I believe I learn something.

Another thing, never get discouraged, for it is grit that counts. When a fox turns the trap over reset it and place another trap in the bed, and you are liable to catch him the first night, but if this fails, turn trap bottom side up and he will get fooled, sometimes, not always, for fox trapping is uncertain.

In the first place, when an animal gets into a trap he tears around for a while, says G. F. Moon, of Dakota, and if the trap be lightly clogged so he can move around, the trapper most generally finds his game when he visits the traps. On the other hand, let the trap get fastened solid and the animal sets his reasoning powers to work; he finds out that he can chew from the under side of the jaws of the trap, and that too without giving himself any pain, and finds that he can easily slip the trap off from the stump of his leg.

Man has been known to do the same thing, when by accident he has been caught by the leg by a tree or a large rock falling on him. Surely the animal showed as much reason as the man. I once had a large fox trap set in a hollow log. The log was about the size of a barrel. A she fox got into the trap, and as the trap was a good bit out of the way I did not visit it for several days. When I did visit the trap the snow was all tramped down by foxes around the log and on the inside of the log by the fox in the trap. There were the remains of several rabbits and one whole rabbit fresh killed, one fresh killed quail and feathers enough to have been on a couple more quail. Now the question arises, "Did the other foxes let instinct guide them to feed the unfortunate fox in the trap? Or did they use their power of reason?" I leave that for others to answer.

LIVE SILVER FOX.

CHAPTER VI.
ALL ROUND LAND SET.

I have made a close study of the red fox for years and the all round land set is one of my best and latest sets, says J. H. Shufelt, of Canada. First used last year and took 15 red foxes, and when properly and carefully set, is the most killing method I ever used.

How to make the scent--This scent should be made in August, of house cat, muskrat or skunk, chopped fine and put in a two quart glass jar and sealed until it forms a liquid, and should fill the jar two-thirds full. Two weeks before using put in the musk of one skunk, one oz. oil of amber, and enough skunk oil to nearly fill the jar; get a new paint brush, a small one will do, and see that it is clean, to use scent with, and it should be kept in the jar.

How to fix trap--I prefer a waxed trap. I find a smoked trap will rust on the under side after setting about a week. It's not so with a waxed trap. If properly waxed, water will not rust them. Take a large kettle of hot water and keep it boiling hot. Melt your beeswax in a cup or dish and pour on the water; now take your traps, six at a time, and dip them, and the wax will adhere to them; just leave the traps in the water long enough to warm them a little, when the wax will spread evenly over them; drain over kettle and hang up to dry a week before using. One half pound of wax is sufficient for three dozen traps and chains and will last one trapping season.

NOVEMBER CATCH.

How to set the trap--I use rubber boots and set in the morning when the dew is on the grass or on a wet day. The set should be made near the foxes' runways or on high ground; dig out a place the size of your trap, take something with you to put the trap and dirt on--for this purpose I use a piece of oil cloth, two feet square--fill all around outside of your trap with fine dirt, and put a large leaf over your trap. I use a large leaf from a first growth basswood. As soon as they fall from the tree I gather them and lay them flat together in the mud until I want them to use. Why I prefer this particular kind of leaf is, they grow so large that one leaf covers the trap. After the leaf is over your trap cover with fine dirt or something that must be in keeping with the surroundings. Now stand in one place and take your brush from the jar and paint a circle about two feet in diameter, the width of your brush on the grass all around your trap. This should be repeated once or twice a week, especially after a heavy rain storm. Nothing can steal your bait, John Sneak'um cannot locate your trap.

When visiting your traps carry an extra trap along, and when you make a catch set a clean trap by exchanging traps; always clean your trap after making a catch before setting again. Now boys, start in right, by using a good trap with a large pan, one that can be easily concealed. Don't try to catch a fox with a weak trap, for you will only be disappointed and at the same time be educating another fox, and he will