Half Dwarf Early Margaret.

GOOD FOR EDGINGS OF BEDS AND WALKS

• Alyssum, Sweet.
• Brachycome.
• Collinsias.
• Dianthuses or Pinks.
• Gypsophila muralis.
• Iberis or Candytufts.
• Leptosiphons.
• Lobelia Erinus.
• Nigellas.
• Nemophilas.
• Portulacas or Rose Moss.
• Saponaria Calabrica.
• Specularia.

KINDS WHICH CONTINUE TO BLOOM AFTER FROST

• Abronia umbellata.
• Adonis æstivalis.
• Adonis autumnalis.
• Argemone grandiflora.
• Calendulas.
• Callirrhoë.
• Carduus Benedictus.
• Centaurea Cyanus.
• Centauridium.
• Centranthus macrosiphon.
• Cerinthe retorta.
• Cheiranthus Cheiri.
• Chrysanthemums.
• Convolvulus minor.
• Convolvulus tricolor.
• Dianthus of various kinds.
• Elscholtzia cristata.
• Erysimum Peroffskianum.
• Erysimum Arkansanum.
• Eschscholtzias, in several varieties.
• Gaillardia picta.
• Gilia Achilleæfolia.
• Gilia capitata.
• Gilia laciniata.
• Gilia tricolor.
• Iberis affinis.
• Lavatera alba.
• Matthiolas or Stocks.
• Œnothera rosea.
• Œnothera Lamarckiana.
• Œnothera Drummondii.
• Phlox Drummondii.
• Podolepis affinis.
• Podolepis chrysantha.
• Salvia coccinea.
• Salvia farinacea.
• Salvia Horminum.
• Verbenas.
• Vicia Gerardii.
• Virginian Stocks.
• Viscaria elegans.
• Viscaria oculata.
• Viscaria cœli-rosa.

Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon.

Apple, the “King of Fruits,” thrives over a wider range of territory and under more varied conditions than any other tree fruit. This means that it is easy to grow. In fact, it is so easy to grow that it usually is neglected; and people wonder why the trees do not bear.

The selection of varieties of Apples for home use is, to a large extent, a personal matter; and no one may say what to plant. A variety that is successfully grown in one section may prove disappointing in another. One should study the locality in which he wishes to plant and choose those varieties which are the most successfully grown there,—choosing from amongst the successful kinds those which he likes best and which seem best to meet the purposes for which he is to grow them. When the selection is made, the trees should be procured from a near-by nurseryman, if possible, as one is then able to select his own trees, receive them in the shortest time, and plant them before they have become dry.

The land on which an orchard is to be planted should have been in cultivation at least two years previous to setting the trees and be in a fine physical condition. Dig the hole broad and deep enough to take in all the roots left after pruning off the bruised ends caused by digging up the tree, and trim back the branches at least two-thirds, making a smooth cut. Set the trunk in the center of the hole, and sift the fine dirt down through the roots, slightly lifting the tree once or twice in order that the fine soil may settle under the roots, making congenial soil for the new roots to run through. Fill in over the roots, gradually firming the soil above with the feet. When the hole is full, firm the soil around the trunk to prevent whipping by the wind, leaving the surface level. If the trees are set in the fall a slight earthing up to the trunk may be beneficial in certain soils, and if set in a dry spring a mulch of straw or grass will benefit them. Two- or 3-year-old trees (usually the latter) are the most desirable for planting in home grounds. Commercial orchards are often planted exclusively with 2-year-olds.

Spray of Apples

In orchard cultivation, Apple trees are usually planted 35 to 40 ft. apart each way. In home grounds they may be placed somewhat closer than this, especially if they are planted upon the boundaries, so that the limbs may project freely in one direction.

It is ordinarily advisable, especially in the humid climates east of the Great Lakes, to have the body of the tree 3½ to 4½ ft. long. The limbs should be trimmed up to this point when the tree is set. From three to five main branches may be left to form the framework of the top. These should be shortened back one-fourth or one-half when the tree is set. Subsequent pruning should keep the top of the tree open and maintain it in more or less symmetrical form. See Pruning.

In orchard conditions, the trees should be kept in clean culture, especially for the first few years; but this is not always possible in home yards. In lieu of tillage, the sward may be mulched each fall with stable manure, and commercial fertilizer may be applied each fall or spring. If fruit is wanted rather than foliage and shade, care should be taken not to make ground too rich but to keep it in such condition that the tree is making a fairly vigorous growth, with good strong foliage, but is not overgrowing. An Apple tree in full bearing is usually in good condition if the twigs grow from 10 to 18 in. each season. All leaf-eating insects may be kept off by spraying with Paris green. The Appleworm or codlin-moth may be kept in check by spraying with Paris green as soon as the blossoms fall, and again a week or ten days later. The leaf blight or apple-scab fungus may be kept in check by spraying with Bordeaux mixture just before the flowers open, and again after they fall (see Spraying). A close watch should be kept for borers. Whenever the bark appears to be dead or sunken in patches, remove it and search for the cause. A borer will usually be found underneath the bark. About the base of the tree the most serious injury occurs from borers, since the insect which enters there bores into the hard wood. His presence can be determined by the chips which are cast from his burrows. The only remedy is to dig out the larvæ. If they have got far into the wood, they can be killed by running a flexible wire into the burrows.

Apple trees should begin to bear when three to five years planted, and at ten years should be bearing good crops. With good treatment, they should continue to bear for thirty or more years. It is cheaper to buy trees from the nursery than to attempt to raise them for oneself.

The dwarf Apples are secured by grafting any