Vieux Homme et Enfant. Ghirlandaio (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Mansell " 136 Vénus et l'Amour. Rembrandt (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 146 Les Pèlerins d'Emmaüs. Rembrandt (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 154 La Vierge au Donateur. J. van Eyck (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 166 Portrait de sa Mère. Whistler (Luxembourg) " 176 La Bohémienne. Franz Hals (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 186 Ste. Geneviève. Puvis de Chavannes (Panthéon)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 190 La Leçon de Lecture. Terburg (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 206 La Dentellière. Vermeer of Delft (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Woodbury " 216 Girl's Head. Ecole de Fabriano (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Mansell " 228 Le Bénédicité. Chardin (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Giraudon " 234 Madame Le Brun et sa Fille. Madame Le Brun (Louvre)
From a Photograph by Hanfstaengl " 246 Le Pont de Mantes. Corot (Louvre, Moreau Collection)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 252 La Provende des Poules. Troyon (Louvre, Thomy-Thierret Collection)
From a Photograph by Alinari " 266 The Windmill. R. P. Bonington (Louvre) " 274 L'Amateur d'Estampes. Daumier (Palais des Beaux Arts) " 286 Le Baiser. Rodin (Luxembourg)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 294 La Bergère Gardant ses Moutons. Millet (Louvre, Chauchard Collection) " 308 Le Monument aux Morts. A. Bartholomé (Père la Chaise)
From a Photograph by Neurdein " 316

A WANDERER IN PARIS

CHAPTER I
THE ENGLISH GATES OF PARIS

The Gare du Nord and Gare St. Lazare—The Singing Cabman—"Vivent les femmes!"—Characteristic Paris—The Next Morning—A Choice of Delights—The Compas d'Or—The World of Dumas—The First Lunch—Voisin wins.

Most travellers from London enter Paris in the evening, and I think they are wise. I wish it were possible again and again to enter Paris in the evening for the first time; but since it is not, let me hasten to say that the pleasure of re-entering Paris in the evening is one that custom has almost no power to stale. Every time that one emerges from the Gare du Nord or the Gare St. Lazare one is taken afresh by the variegated and vivid activity of it all—the myriad purposeful self-contained bustling people, all moving on their unknown errands exactly as they were moving when one was here last, no matter how long ago. For Paris never changes: that is one of her most precious secrets.

The London which one had left seven or eight hours before was populous enough and busy enough, Heaven knows, but London's pulse is slow and fairly regular, and even at her gayest, even when greeting Royalty, she seems to be advising caution and a careful demeanour. But Paris—Paris smiles and Paris sings. There is an incredible vivacity in her atmosphere.

Sings! This reminds me that on the first occasion that I entered Paris—in the evening, of course—my cabman sang. He sang