قراءة كتاب The Ascent of the Matterhorn
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CHAPTER XIV.
LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS—SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES.
A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL D’HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THÉODULHORN—NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE BEDS—TRY ANOTHER ROUTE—“SAUVE QUI PEUT”—BEATEN AGAIN—ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES—NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN AVALANCHE
CHAPTER XV.
THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT.
CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE PASS—EXTRAORDINARY ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX
CHAPTER XVI.
THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.
CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE—ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—STORMS COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX
CHAPTER XVII.
THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE.
THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO COURMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.
FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES’ OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPE—ON THE USE AND ABUSE OF THE ROPE—ALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTION—THE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ, HUDSON, AND HADOW
CHAPTER XIX.
THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY—ASCENT OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT—DISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA
CHAPTER XX.
THE DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS—THE BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE END
APPENDIX.
| PAGE | |
| A. THE DEATH OF BENNEN | 301 |
| B. STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN | 303 |
| C. NOTE ON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN FRANCE | 304 |
| D. SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN | 304 |
| E. TABLE OF ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN | 315 |
| F. TABLE OF ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN | 316 |
| G. GEOLOGY OF THE MATTERHORN, BY SIG. F. GIORDANO | 323 |
| H. PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE MATTERHORN | 325 |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The Drawings were made on the Wood by
H. J. Boot, Gustave Doré, C. Johnson, J. Mahoney, J. W. North, P. Skelton, W. G. Smith, C. J. Staniland, and J. Wolf; and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.
FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
| 1. | “They saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, dart round the corner” | Frontispiece. | |
| 2. | Outlines of the Matterhorn from the North-East and from the Summit of the Théodule Pass (to show Ridges, and Points attained on the different attempts to Ascend the Mountain) | To face page | 44 |
| 3. | The Matterhorn, from near the Summit of the Théodule Pass | „ | 46 |
| 4. | “The Chimney” | „ | 76 |
| 5. | “In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell” | „ | 78 |
| 6. | A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862) | „ | 84 |
| 7. | “They scattered in a panic when saluted by the cries Of my excited comrade” | „ | 107 |
| 8. | The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, August 10, 1863 | „ | 120 |
| 9. | The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864 | „ | 202 |
| 10. | The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg | „ | 227 |
| 11. | Sections of the Matterhorn | „ | 230 |
| 12. | Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865 | „ | 288 |
| 13. | The Hut on the Eastern Face (Zermatt side) of the Matterhorn | „ | 309 |
| 14. |