قراءة كتاب The Ascent of the Matterhorn

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The Ascent of the Matterhorn

The Ascent of the Matterhorn

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دار النشر: Project Gutenberg
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CHAPTER XIV.

LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS—SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES.

A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL D’HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THÉODULHORN—NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE BEDS—TRY ANOTHER ROUTE—SAUVE QUI PEUT—BEATEN AGAIN—ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES—NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN AVALANCHE

223-238

[pg xvii]

CHAPTER XV.

THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT.

CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE PASS—EXTRAORDINARY ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX

239-246

CHAPTER XVI.

THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.

CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE—ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—STORMS COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX

247-254

CHAPTER XVII.

THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE.

THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO COURMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC

255-258

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.

FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES’ OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPE—ON THE USE AND ABUSE OF THE ROPE—ALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTION—THE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ, HUDSON, AND HADOW

259-272

CHAPTER XIX.

THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.

CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY—ASCENT OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT—DISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA

273-283

[pg xviii]

CHAPTER XX.

THE DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.

ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS—THE BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE END

284-298

APPENDIX.

PAGE
A. THE DEATH OF BENNEN 301
B. STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN 303
C. NOTE ON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN FRANCE 304
D. SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN 304
E. TABLE OF ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN 315
F. TABLE OF ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN 316
G. GEOLOGY OF THE MATTERHORN, BY SIG. F. GIORDANO 323
H. PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE MATTERHORN 325

[pg xix]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Drawings were made on the Wood by
H. J. Boot, Gustave Doré, C. Johnson, J. Mahoney, J. W. North, P. Skelton, W. G. Smith, C. J. Staniland, and J. Wolf; and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.

FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. They saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, dart round the corner Frontispiece.
2. Outlines of the Matterhorn from the North-East and from the Summit of the Théodule Pass (to show Ridges, and Points attained on the different attempts to Ascend the Mountain) To face page 44
3. The Matterhorn, from near the Summit of the Théodule Pass 46
4. The Chimney 76
5. In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell 78
6. A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862) 84
7. They scattered in a panic when saluted by the cries Of my excited comrade 107
8. The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, August 10, 1863 120
9. The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864 202
10. The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg 227
11. Sections of the Matterhorn 230
12. Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865 288
13. The Hut on the Eastern Face (Zermatt side) of the Matterhorn 309
14.

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