Funchal.—Departure.

58 CHAPTER V. RIO DE JANEIRO. Brazil the Land of Contrasts.—Appearance of the City of Rio and its Environs.—Excursion to the Peak of Corcovado, and the Tejuca Waterfalls.—Germans in Rio.—Brazilian Literary Men.—Assacú (Hura Brasiliensis.)—Snake-bite as an Antidote against Leprosy.—Public Institutions.—Negroes of the Mozambique Coast.—The House of Misericordia.—Lunatic Asylum.—Botanical Garden.—Public Instruction.—Historico-Geographical Institution.—Palæstra Scientifica.—Military Academy.—Library.—Conservatory of Music.—Sanitary Police.—Yellow Fever and Cholera.—Water Party on the Bay.—Chamber of Deputies.—Petropolis.—Condition of the Slave Population.—Prospects of German Emigration.—Suitability of Brazil as a Market for German Commerce.—Natural Products, and Exchange of Manufactures.—Audience of the Emperor and Empress.—Extravagant Waste of Powder for Salvoes.—Songs of the Sailors.—Departure from Rio.—Retrospect.—South-east Trades.—Cape Pigeons.—Albatrosses—Cape Tormentoso.—A Storm at the Cape.—Various Methods of Measuring the Height of Waves.—Arrival in Simon's Bay. 121 CHAPTER VI. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Contrasts of Scenery and Seasons at Cape Colony.—Ramble through Simon's Town.—Malay Population.—The Toad-fish, or Sea-devil.—Rondebosch and its delightful Scenery.—Cape Town.—Influence of the English Element.—Scientific and other Institutions.—Botanical Gardens.—Useful Plants.—Foreign Emigration.—A Caffre Prophet and the Consequences of his Prophecies.—Caffre Prisoners in the Armstrong Battery.—Five young Caffres take Service as Sailors on Board the Novara.—Trip into the Interior.—Stellenbosch.—Paarl.—Worcester.—Brand Vley.—The Mission of Moravian Brethren at Genaadendal.—Masticatories and intoxicating

Substances used by the Hottentots.—Caledon.—Somerset West.—Zandvliet.—Tomb of a Malay Prophet.—Horse Sickness.—Tsetse-fly.—Vineyards of Constantia.—Fête Champétre in Honour of the Novara.—Excursion to the actual Cape of Good Hope.—Departure.—A Life saved.—Experiments with Brook's Deep-sea Sounding Apparatus.—Arrival at the Island of St. Paul in the South Indian Ocean.

196 CHAPTER VII. THE ISLANDS OF ST. PAUL AND AMSTERDAM, IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. Former History.—Importance of the Situation of St. Paul.—Present Inhabitants.—Preliminary Observations.—To whom do the Islands belong?—Fisheries.—Hot springs.—Singular Experiment.—Penguins.—Disembarkation.—Inclement Weather.—Remarks on the Climate of the Island.—Cultivation of European Vegetables.—Animal Life.—Library in a Fisherman's Hut.—Narrative of old Viot.—Re-embarkation.—An official Document left behind.—Some Results obtained during the Stay of the Expedition.—Visit to the Island of Amsterdam.—Whalers.—Search for a Landing-place.—Remarks on the Natural History of the Islands.—A Conflagration.—Comparison of the Two Islands.—A Rencontre at Sea.—Trade-wind.—Christmas at Sea.—"A man overboard!"—Cingalese Canoe.—Arrival at Point de Galle, in Ceylon. 267 CHAPTER VIII. CEYLON. Neglect of the Island hitherto by the English Government.—Better Prospects for the Future.—The Cingalese, their Language and Customs.—Buddhism and its Ordinances.—Visit to a Buddhist Temple in the Vicinity of Galle.—The sacred Bo-tree.—Other Aborigines of Ceylon.—The Weddàhs.—Traditions as to their Origin.—Galle as a City and Harbour.—Snake-charmers.—Departure for Colombo.—Cultivation of the Cocoa-nut Palm a benevolent, Buddha-pleasing work.—Polyandria; or, Community of Husbands—Supposed Origin.—Annual Exportation of Cocoa-nuts.—Rest-houses for Travellers.—Curry the national Dish.—A Misfortune and its Consequences.—The Catholic Mission of St. Sebastian de Makùn, and Father Miliani.—Annoying Delays with restive Horses.—Colombo.—A Stroll through the "Pettah," or Black Town.—Ice Trade of the Americans with Tropical Countries.—Cinnamon Gardens and Cinnamon Cultivation.—Consequences of the Monopoly of Cinnamon.—Rise and Expansion of the Coffee Culture in Ceylon.—Pearl-fishery.—Latest Examination of the Ceylon Banks of Pearl Oysters, by Dr. Kelaart, and its Results.—Aripo at

the Season of Pearl-fishing.—The Divers.—Pearl-lime, a chewing Substance of wealthy Malays.—Annual Profit of the Pearl-fishery.—Origin of the Pearl.—Poetry and Natural Science.—Artificial Production of the Pearl.—The Chank-shell.—The Wealth of Ceylon in Precious Stones.—Visit to a Cocoa-nut Oil Manufactory.—The Cowry-shell, a Promoter of the Slave Trade.—Discovery of valuable Cingalese MSS. on Palm-leaves.—The heroic Poem of "Mahawanso," and Turnour's English Translation of it.—Hospitality of English Officials in Colombo.—A second Visit to Father Miliani.—Agreeable Reception.—The Antidote-oil against Bites of Poisonous Snakes.—Adventures on the Journey back to Galle.—Ascent of Adam's Peak by two Members of the Expedition.—The Sacred Footprint.—Descent.—The "Bullock-bandy," or Native Waggon.—Departure from Galle for Madras.—The Bassos (Shallows).—A Berlin Rope-dancer among the Passengers.—Nyctalopia; or, Night Blindness.—Fire on Board.—Arrival in Madras Roads.

345 CHAPTER IX. MADRAS. "Catamarans" and "Masuli" Boats.—Difficulty of Disembarkation, and Plans for remedying it.—History.—Brahminism.—Festival in Honour of Vishnù.—Employment of Heathens under a Christian Government.—Politics and Religion.—Laws of Brahminic Faith.—The Observatory.—Museum of Natural History and Zoological Garden.—Academy of Fine Arts.—Medical School.—Infirmary.—Orphan Asylum.—Dr. Bell.—Lancastrian Method of Teaching Children first Applied in Madras.—Colonel