distant view of the Jura Range from the south side of the Lake of Geneva

25 5. Fluelen at the end of Uri Lake 32 6. Altdorf 41 7. A Village on the St. Gothard Railway 48 8. The Statue of Jean-Jacques Rousseau on the Island in the Rhone, Geneva 57 9. Château de Prangins 64 10. Geneva from the Arve 73 11. L'Église de la Madeleine, Geneva 80 12. An Alpine Village, Grindelwald 89 13. Alpine Herdsmen 91 14. Hay Hauling on the Alpine Snow 94 15. Sunset on Mont Blanc from Geneva 96 16. The Palu Glacier 105 17. Winter Sunrise in the Engadine—Cresta, Celerina, and Samaden 107 18. The Schiahorn. "The Châlets are like fairy houses or toys" 110 19. A Mountain Path, Grindelwald 112 20. Castle of Chillon 121 21. Davos in Winter—The Home of John Addington Symonds 128 22. Märjelen See and Great Aletsch Glacier 137 23. Looking up Valley towards Zermatt from near Randa 144 24. The Dents du Midi from Gryon above Bex 147 25. The Schwartzhorn from the Fluela Hospice 150 26. An Alpine Meadow in Bloom 153 27. Hepatica in the Woods at Bex 156 28. Alpine Garden (La Linnea) at Bourg St. Pierre on the road to the Great St. Bernard, beginning of August 160 29. Hunting the Chamois 169 30. A Corner of Aigle Skating Rink 176 31. Berne 185 32. Lausanne 192

Sketch Map at end of Volume

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SWITZERLAND

CHAPTER I

THE SPIRIT OF THE MOUNTAINS

The Swiss as a people often suffer in the judgment of the tourist by failure to live up to their reputation as a "mountain people"—to a glorious "Alpine" character.

The dweller by the shores of the sea or by the riverine plains, setting