قراءة كتاب The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

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The Heritage of Dress
Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

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دار النشر: Project Gutenberg
الصفحة رقم: 5

colspan="2">An ornamental baldric of the early fifteenth century. (Royal MS. 15, D. 5, after Fairholt)

108 105. A lady’s dress, showing the part which is called a yoke, and recalls a primitive method of carrying burdens 109 106. A loom comb found in the Glastonbury lake dwellings (after Boyd Dawkins) 118 107. A modern comb for the hair 118 108. Two studs of bronze, seen from above and from the side, later Bronze Age (after Worsaae) 119 109. The “flash” of five black ribbons on the collar of the Welsh Fusiliers. A survival from the days of the pigtail 134 110. The modern groom, showing the belt to which ladies clung when riding on a pillion 140 111. A footman in plush breeches and with powdered hair. His “pouter” coat dates from the reign of George III. By the courtesy of Messrs. F. T. Prewett and Co. 141 112. A sheriff’s coachman with the full-skirted coat of the time of George II. By the courtesy of Messrs. Prewett and Co. 142 113. The wig-bag (a survival of the bag-wig) now seen on the back of the collar of the Lord Mayor’s coachman 143 114. A modern page-boy’s livery 145 115. The Dutch skeleton dress, fashionable for boys in 1826 145 116. The cockade known as the “large treble,” representing a survival of the chaperon 152 117. A “treble cockade” covered with black cloth for mourning. The concentric circles would appear to represent the twisted liripipe of the chaperon 154 118. Treble cockade used by Chelsea pensioners 155 119. The Regent cockade 155 120. Royal cockade for state occasions 155 121. Ordinary Royal cockade 155 122. Two stages in the evolution of the chaperon. Combined hood and cape 156 123. Enlargement of the peak of the hood to form the liripipe. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black) 156 124.   Further development of the chaperon. Cape and liripipe made into a head-dress that can be altered at will 157 125. A chaperon ready made up, in order to save trouble. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black) 157 126. Dress worn by the girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham. It is a modification of the Dervish Djibah 172 127. Dress worn by the girls at the Croft School, Betley, when at work 173 128. St. Gregory the Great with his father Gordianus, who was a senator, on his right, and his mother Sylvia on his left. This shows the similarity between ecclesiastical and civil costume in early times. From an authentic picture (after Marriott) 188 129. A priest in the vestments now worn at the celebration of the Eucharist 194 130. The coat of arms of Thomas à Becket, showing an archbishop’s pall 198 131. The head-dress of a nun showing the veil and breast-cloth derived from the wimple, the cap which represents the chin-cloth, together with the frontal and the hood 203 132. The head-dress of a lady of the time of Henry II. The wimple is shown covering the chin and head-bands (after Calthrop) 203 133. The chin-band and forehead strap after the wimple has been removed (after Calthrop) 203 134. Hanging sleeve of the fifteenth century 209 135. The hanging sleeve of a Chancellor of Oxford University 211 136. A college cap or trencher 214 137. Cranmer’s hat, illustrating a stage in the evolution of a mortar-board (after Fairholt) 214 138. The hat of a bishop of the Stuart Period showing a stage at which the stiffening now seen in the mortar-board was becoming necessary (after Fairholt) 214 139. The wig of a modern judge 216 140. The vestige of the coif from the wig of a serjeant-at-law 217 141. A barrister’s gown showing the vestigial hood and its streamer. The buttons and braid which once temporarily looped up the sleeves now fix it permanently 219 142. A Yeoman of the Guard of the present reign 224 143. The wig-bag or “flash” from a Court suit, showing the rosette held away and displaying the black silk bag. At the lower corners of the latter loops are seen, which are probably the remains of those through which a ribbon was passed, which went round the neck and fastened on the breast by a brooch 229 144. The hood from the mantle of a Knight of the Garter, showing the survival of the chaperon and its liripipe 230 145. Relic of chain mail on the shoulder of an Imperial Yeoman 233 146. Chain mail illustrated by the brass of Sir Richard de Trumpington, A.D. 1289 234 147. A reversion in military equipment. One of Cromwell’s Ironsides (1679), from a print. A Cavalryman sketched at Aldershot in 1901. Copied, by permission, from the Daily Mail 237 148. The prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, which survive from the time of flint-lock muskets 239 149. The Oscan Pulicinella of 1731, without a long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni) 256 150. The Calabrian Giangurgolo of 1731, with the long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni) 257 151. An ancient bronze statuette with the face and features of Punch (after Ficorroni)

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