colspan="2">An ornamental baldric of the early fifteenth century. (Royal MS. 15, D. 5, after Fairholt)
108 |
105. |
A lady’s dress, showing the part which is called a yoke, and recalls a primitive method of carrying burdens |
109 |
106. |
A loom comb found in the Glastonbury lake dwellings (after Boyd Dawkins) |
118 |
107. |
A modern comb for the hair |
118 |
108. |
Two studs of bronze, seen from above and from the side, later Bronze Age (after Worsaae) |
119 |
109. |
The “flash” of five black ribbons on the collar of the Welsh Fusiliers. A survival from the days of the pigtail |
134 |
110. |
The modern groom, showing the belt to which ladies clung when riding on a pillion |
140 |
111. |
A footman in plush breeches and with powdered hair. His “pouter” coat dates from the reign of George III. By the courtesy of Messrs. F. T. Prewett and Co. |
141 |
112. |
A sheriff’s coachman with the full-skirted coat of the time of George II. By the courtesy of Messrs. Prewett and Co. |
142 |
113. |
The wig-bag (a survival of the bag-wig) now seen on the back of the collar of the Lord Mayor’s coachman |
143 |
114. |
A modern page-boy’s livery |
145 |
115. |
The Dutch skeleton dress, fashionable for boys in 1826 |
145 |
116. |
The cockade known as the “large treble,” representing a survival of the chaperon |
152 |
117. |
A “treble cockade” covered with black cloth for mourning. The concentric circles would appear to represent the twisted liripipe of the chaperon |
154 |
118. |
Treble cockade used by Chelsea pensioners |
155 |
119. |
The Regent cockade |
155 |
120. |
Royal cockade for state occasions |
155 |
121. |
Ordinary Royal cockade |
155 |
122. |
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Two stages in the evolution of the chaperon. Combined hood and cape |
156 |
123. |
Enlargement of the peak of the hood to form the liripipe. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black) |
156 |
124. |
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Further development of the chaperon. Cape and liripipe made into a head-dress that can be altered at will |
157 |
125. |
A chaperon ready made up, in order to save trouble. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black) |
157 |
126. |
Dress worn by the girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham. It is a modification of the Dervish Djibah |
172 |
127. |
Dress worn by the girls at the Croft School, Betley, when at work |
173 |
128. |
St. Gregory the Great with his father Gordianus, who was a senator, on his right, and his mother Sylvia on his left. This shows the similarity between ecclesiastical and civil costume in early times. From an authentic picture (after Marriott) |
188 |
129. |
A priest in the vestments now worn at the celebration of the Eucharist |
194 |
130. |
The coat of arms of Thomas à Becket, showing an archbishop’s pall |
198 |
131. |
The head-dress of a nun showing the veil and breast-cloth derived from the wimple, the cap which represents the chin-cloth, together with the frontal and the hood |
203 |
132. |
The head-dress of a lady of the time of Henry II. The wimple is shown covering the chin and head-bands (after Calthrop) |
203 |
133. |
The chin-band and forehead strap after the wimple has been removed (after Calthrop) |
203 |
134. |
Hanging sleeve of the fifteenth century |
209 |
135. |
The hanging sleeve of a Chancellor of Oxford University |
211 |
136. |
A college cap or trencher |
214 |
137. |
Cranmer’s hat, illustrating a stage in the evolution of a mortar-board (after Fairholt) |
214 |
138. |
The hat of a bishop of the Stuart Period showing a stage at which the stiffening now seen in the mortar-board was becoming necessary (after Fairholt) |
214 |
139. |
The wig of a modern judge |
216 |
140. |
The vestige of the coif from the wig of a serjeant-at-law |
217 |
141. |
A barrister’s gown showing the vestigial hood and its streamer. The buttons and braid which once temporarily looped up the sleeves now fix it permanently |
219 |
142. |
A Yeoman of the Guard of the present reign |
224 |
143. |
The wig-bag or “flash” from a Court suit, showing the rosette held away and displaying the black silk bag. At the lower corners of the latter loops are seen, which are probably the remains of those through which a ribbon was passed, which went round the neck and fastened on the breast by a brooch |
229 |
144. |
The hood from the mantle of a Knight of the Garter, showing the survival of the chaperon and its liripipe |
230 |
145. |
Relic of chain mail on the shoulder of an Imperial Yeoman |
233 |
146. |
Chain mail illustrated by the brass of Sir Richard de Trumpington, A.D. 1289 |
234 |
147. |
A reversion in military equipment. One of Cromwell’s Ironsides (1679), from a print. A Cavalryman sketched at Aldershot in 1901. Copied, by permission, from the Daily Mail |
237 |
148. |
The prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, which survive from the time of flint-lock muskets |
239 |
149. |
The Oscan Pulicinella of 1731, without a long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni) |
256 |
150. |
The Calabrian Giangurgolo of 1731, with the long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni) |
257 |
151. |
An ancient bronze statuette with the face and features of Punch (after Ficorroni) |
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