tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">160

FLOTILLA AT FAJAO 162 THE TOP OF THE MURCHISON FALLS 164 UGANDA SCENERY 164 THE LANDING-PLACE AT FAJAO 169 EARLY MORNING ON THE NILE AT FAJAO 170 FAJAO 170 APPROACH TO LAKE ALBERT, WITH THE CONGO HILLS IN THE DISTANCE 174 WADELAI 174 THE "KENIA," "JAMES MARTIN," AND "GOOD HOPE" NEARING NIMULE 178 HIPPO CAMP 178 MR. CHURCHILL ON THE OBSERVATION LADDER AT HIPPO CAMP 182 BANK OF THE VICTORIA NILE 182 MR. CHURCHILL AND BURCHELL'S WHITE RHINOCEROS 186 COLONEL WILSON'S ELEPHANT 187 THE "KENIA," "JAMES MARTIN," AND "GOOD HOPE" ON THE WHITE NILE 187 FORDING THE ASUA 192 THE BELGIAN OFFICIALS AT LADO 196 GONDOKORO 196 REVIEW AT KHARTOUM 198 SOUDAN GOVERNMENT STEAMER "DAL" 198 A SHELUK AT KODOK (FASHODA) 202 THE PALACE, KHARTOUM 204 GEORGE SCRIVINGS 207 PHILAE 208

MAPS

EASTERN AFRICA	2
BRITISH EAST AFRICA	16
UGANDA	92

CHAPTER I

THE UGANDA RAILWAY

The aspect of Mombasa as she rises from the sea and clothes herself with form and colour at the swift approach of the ship is alluring and even delicious. But to appreciate all these charms the traveller should come from the North. He should see the hot stones of Malta, baking and glistening on a steel-blue Mediterranean. He should visit the Island of Cyprus before the autumn rains have revived the soil, when the Messaoria Plain is one broad wilderness of dust, when every tree—be it only a thorn-bush—is an heirloom, and every drop of water is a jewel. He should walk for two hours at midday in the streets of Port Said. He should thread the long red furrow of the Suez Canal, and swelter through the trough of the Red Sea. He should pass a day among the cinders of Aden, and a week among the scorched rocks and stones of Northern Somaliland; and then, after five days of open sea, his eye and mind will be prepared to salute with feelings of grateful delight these shores of vivid and exuberant green. On every side is vegetation, moist, tumultuous, and varied. Great trees, clad in dense foliage, shrouded in creepers, springing from beds of verdure, thrust themselves through the undergrowth; palms laced together by flowering trailers; every kind of tropical plant that lives by rain and sunshine; high waving grass, brilliant patches of purple bougainvillea, and in the midst, dotted about, scarcely keeping their heads above the fertile flood of Nature, the red-roofed houses of the town and port of Mombasa.