the surface and let it rebound back, and be ready to strike again, being careful that the stippling proceeds evenly, and that the porousness indicated be as near equal all over as possible. It is not a very difficult operation, but one minute of actual work with the flogger will teach more to the student as to how it should be done than an hour of description will.

QUESTIONS ON LESSON IX.

44. How should the distemper colors be put on?

45. What is said of the thinners used in distemper work?

46. How should the check roller be used?

47. How is the stippling done?

LESSON X.

WIPING OUT IN GRAINING.

48. Wiping out is the name given to the operation in graining whereby some of the color is removed, as in champs or flakes in quartered oak, for instance, or else where the veining in heart growth is also removed and the remaining dark color not removed forms the veining. This operation is mainly used in graining oak in oil, but is not confined to that alone by any means, nor to oil graining alone, either. Many grainers who know “how” wipe out water or distemper work and it looks well, too.

49. To do the “wiping” the operator takes some soft cotton rags, folding a couple of thicknesses together, and using the thumb inside of it he draws it gently wherever he desires to remove any of the color; by drawing gently on the cloth it will wipe out the color cleanly, and always present a clean face to the fresh color. Under no consideration should the grainer permit himself to keep on using a soiled part of the cloth, as it is sure to show up streaky and dirty. Many persons for good reasons sometimes cannot use their thumbs in wiping, and such resort to the artificial one described in paragraph 23. While this has not the sensitiveness of the natural organ, by practice one can use it to do very good work.

50. Combing. The operation known as “combing” may be performed by the use of combs of various material, such as steel combs; leather combs, which are simply sole leather upon the ends of which have been cut out with a knife square teeth of such size as is desired; rubber combs, which are somewhat upon the same order and which can be bought ready made, each fitted into a wooden handle as shown in Fig 10. This, however, shows one with graduated teeth which is very useful for many purposes. Any of the above are better adapted for certain kinds of work than are any of the others. Practice will soon show the grainers which ones to use.

51. The combing proper requires more care than skill, but the latter always counts in this as well as any of the other operations in graining. The operator should be provided with clean, soft cotton rags to wipe the combs every time that they are used. Never be tempted to draw it over the work a second time. “Get the habit” and it will stay with you so it will become automatic. Many an otherwise good job of graining has been ruined in looks by the slovenly habit of using dirty combs. Clean cut edges count many points in good graining. When nearing joints it is a good plan to cover an already grained or combed part with a small sheet of tin, which will prevent the comb from trespassing over into forbidden ground. Do not hold the tin flat over the grained or combed work, as it might mar it, but let it touch just at the joint, the hand holding it at an angle off the face of it.

52. Combing is not confined to oil work only, although by far most of the combing done is in that medium, but it is frequently resorted to in distemper work. The steel combs are seldom used for this kind of work, the rubber ones being infinitely superior. It is more difficult, however, and it must be done very quickly, as the color will otherwise be dry, when it will be impossible to do anything with it, and the part being combed will have to be washed off and another application of distemper color given it. Quickness, therefore, is an important consideration in combing distemper colors; cleanliness is just as essential as was stated in the preceding paragraph for oil combing, only a little more so if possible. The operator should make up his mind as to what he is going to do before he touches a tool and then stick to it to the end, giving all his thoughts to his work.

QUESTIONS ON LESSON X.

48. Describe what is meant by “wiping out”?

49. What is needed for this operation and how done?

50. What are the tools needed in “combing”?

51. How is the combing done in oil graining?

52. How is combing done in distemper work?

LESSON XI.

PENCILLING IN THE VEINING, ETC.

53. In water color work the heart growth of veins, some of the flaking, knots, burls, etc., are done by pencilling the same with a camel’s hair brush. Some is left just as the outlines made by the brush leaves it, but only in such outlinings as those of knots or in the imitating of defects and in some burls.

54. The “pencilling” requires a steady hand with a perfect control of the freedom of movement of the hand doing the work. To insure this it will be found much the best way is to use a mahl stick for a rest. It will insure against unsteadiness and will enable the operator to do his work just as he wants it and where he wants it. It will enable him to give the heaviest part of the stroke at the center of the heart growth, where it ought to be, and to gradually lessen its width toward the sides, where it is not so full nor heavy.

55. The operator should be careful while executing his veining that the blender is used while the color of the veining put on is still wet, as otherwise it will not blend and the chances are that the work will be spoiled, or at least greatly inferior in quality. (Fig. 2 shows the blender.) The blending itself is the drawing of the soft hair over the wet color, which softens it and divides its stiff outlines in serrated, uneven, pore-like, outlines. While the operation is not a difficult one, good blending requires an intimate knowledge of what will be the effects produced by the use of the tool, as the blending can be overdone as well as underdone. A little practical experience will soon teach the operator its proper use.

56. Fan overgrainers, as shown in Fig. 4, come in various widths. It was said in paragraph 14 describing them, that many grainers preferred to make them themselves. This no doubt is due to the reason that in preparing them themselves they are able to arrange the hair so that they can get various effects from them, such as graduated lines, and again thick or thin lines, etc. But one can easily obtain the same results by buying a dozen or two of the ready made ones. They usually are made with a surplus of hair, and with a pair of sharp scissors the operator can easily cut out all the superfluous hair from the parts desired. With a good supply of overgrainers thus prepared before hand, he will be prepared to do an endless variety of veinings in lines equidistant, or graduated to suit.

57. The fan overgrainers are used for many purposes, not only in overgraining, as their name would seem to indicate, but also in laying out the veining adjacent to heart growths wherever a succession of fine lines are required, and which in water color work corresponds to combing in