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The plain backstop of wire net and iron posts does not enhance the beauty of the lawn, and consequently many experiments have been made to eliminate, so far as possible, their ugly appearance. Painting the whole affair a grass green so as to render it as inconspicuous as possible, is one way of partly achieving the desired results. Another simple and more satisfactory method of hiding the plain backstops is to utilize the things which nature furnishes so lavishly for us. These may be growing in our garden or found rampant in the fields and woods, climbing over hedges and fences and reaching to the tops of trees.

The most economical form of stop-net is here shown, although it will not, of course, stop all stray balls

For instance the wire net erected at either end back of the courts can be converted into screens of living green by planting vines on the outside, or, if one prefers, it can be covered with the climbing roses to make it a glorious color effect. Better even than the ordinary wire net, an artistic screen of lattice work or trellis can be erected. This can be covered on the back with almost any of the climbing vines. Roses, honeysuckle, clematis, trumpet vine, or moon flower are all suitable for this purpose. With a little pruning and training, the screen can, within a season or two, be converted into a beautiful garden ornament.

A grass tennis court with back nets to keep the balls from going too far, covered with climbing vines or flowers, adds so much to the appearance of a garden that other improvements are sure to follow. A series of rustic benches for spectators should be arranged on the west side, so that they can watch the afternoon game without having the sun in their eyes. If the land is rolling and hilly, the benches should be placed on a terrace at one side.

A tea house of suitable character is a great addition to a tennis court. This may be nothing more than a rustic covering to protect the heads of the spectators, with seats and a rustic table for serving the tea. If it is built on a terrace on the west side of the court visitors can watch the game under the most comfortable circumstances.

Nets of a great variety, from plain, machine-made twine to the hand-made, double-knitted cotton ones, canvas-bound at top and bottom, and reinforced at the corners and middle, may be had to-day. A strong, durable net is the cheapest in the end, and there will be less trouble from shrinking and stretching. For single courts the nets are 27 feet long and 3 feet high, and for double courts they run from 36 to 42 feet in length.

The most serviceable posts for holding the nets in position are those made with anchor sockets, which are permanently driven in the ground. These spade-shaped iron sockets hold the posts firmly in an upright position without the use of guy ropes. When the posts are removed from the sockets a wooden plug is inserted to keep dirt from collecting in them. In addition to this the iron posts are supplied with tennis-net reels that tighten or loosen the net as demanded. The reels automatically lock to hold the net firmly in position, and they are instantly released by moving the handle.

Other varieties of tennis posts can be used if needed, but the wooden poles supported by guy ropes and pegs are the least satisfactory. The pegs are constantly pulling out and destroying the sod. Straight iron anchor posts are better than these. They are driven in the ground, and by means of triple claw clutches they are held rigid. In place of the iron center forks for holding the middle of the net at the regulation three-foot height, canvas center straps are now preferred. The canvas straps do not chafe the net, and cannot cause the ball to glance off and strike out of court. Another method sometimes used for holding the top line of the net straight is to use galvanized steel cable top cords. These cords are a quarter of an inch thick, with metal loops at the ends and manila rope ends to fasten to the posts. They keep the net from sagging in the middle. Canvas-bound nets are also designed to keep the top firm.