CLARET AND OLIVES,

FROM

THE GARONNE TO THE RHONE;

OR,

NOTES, SOCIAL, PICTURESQUE, AND LEGENDARY,
BY THE WAY.

By ANGUS B. REACH,

AUTHOR OF "THE STORY OF A BUCCANEER," ETC.

LONDON: DAVID BOGUE, FLEET STREET.

MDCCCLII.

LONDON:

HENRY VIZETELLY, PRINTER AND ENGRAVER,
GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREET.

TO

CHARLES MACKAY, Esq., LL. D.,

MY EARLIEST AND KINDEST LITERARY FRIEND,

These Pages

ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED.

CONTENTS.

Page
CHAPTER I.
The Diligence—French Country Places—The English in Guienne—Bordeaux—Old Bordeaux—A Bordeaux Landlord—A Suburban Vintaging—The Vintage Dinner	1-20
CHAPTER II.
Claret v. Port—The Claret Soil—The Claret Vine—Popular Appetite for Grapes—Variable qualities of the Claret Soil—French Veterans—The "Authorities" in France	21-38
CHAPTER III.
The Claret Vintage—The Treading of the Grape—The Last Drops of the Grape—Wanderings amongst the Vineyards—Wandering Vintagers—The Vintage Dinner—The Vintagers' Bedroom—The Claret Chateaux—The Chateau Margaux	39-57
CHAPTER IV.
The Landes—The Bordeaux and Teste Railway—M. Tetard and his Imitator—Start for the Landes—The Language of the Landes—A Railway Station in the Landes—The Scenery of the Landes—The Stilt-walkers of the Landes—A Glimpse of Green	58-76
CHAPTER V.
The Clear Water of Arcachon—Legend of the Baron of Chatel-morant—The Resin Harvest—The Witches of the Landes—The Surf of the Bay of Biscay—French Priests—Do the Landes Cows give Milk?—The Amour Patriæ of the Landes	77-101
CHAPTER VI.
Dawn on the Garonne—The Landscape of the Garonne—The Freaks of the Old Wars in Guienne—Agen—Jasmin, the Last of the Troubadours—Southern Cookery and Garlic—The Black Prince in a New Light—Cross-country Travelling in France	102-126
CHAPTER VII.
Pau—The English in Pau—English and Russians—The View of the Pyrenees—The Castle—The Statue of Henri Quatre—His Birth—A Vision of his Life—Rochelle—St. Bartholomew—Ivry—Henri and Sully—Henri and Gabrielle—Henri and Henriette d'Entragues—Ravaillac	127-136
CHAPTER VIII.
The Val d'Ossau—The Vin de Jurancon—Pyrenean Cottages—The Bernais Peasants—The Devil learning Basque—The Wolves of the Pyrenees—The Bears of the Pyrenees—The Dogs of the Pyrenees—An Auberge in the Pyrenees—Omens and Superstitions in the Pyrenees—The Songs of the Pyrenees	137-155
CHAPTER IX.
Wet Weather in the Pyrenees—Eaux Chaudes out of Season, and in the Rain—Plucking the Indian Corn at the Auberge at Laruns—The Legend of the Wehrwolf, and the Baron who was changed into a Bear