href="@public@vhost@g@gutenberg@html@files@43912@[email protected]#marguerita" class="pginternal" tag="{http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml}a">PASTA MARGUERITA

  FOREWORD

n this world war we are learning many lessons from our Allies beside those of the battle field. The housewives of the old world have much to teach us in thrift, especially in the kitchen. Italian cooking—not that of the large hotel or restaurant, but the cucina casalinga of the little roadside hostelry and of the home where the mother, or some deft handmaid trained in the art from infancy, is priestess at the tiny charcoal stove—is at once so frugal and so delicious that we do well to study it with close attention.

If you have ever sat at a snowy table in the garden of some wayside inn in the Appennines, a savory dish of risotto before you and the music of the mountain torrent far below in your ears; or sipped a zabaione in the portico of a cafe on the sun-baked piazza of some brown old town clinging to a hillside of Umbria; or eaten fritto misto on a pensione terrace overhanging the sapphire Gulf of Naples, one of those inimitable haunts of comfort kept by a handsome Italian dame who served her apprenticeship in Anglo-Saxon ways as an English lady's maid; if any of these experiences have been yours you do not need to be convinced of the inimitable charms of the Italian cuisine.

The Italian housewife uses quantities of vegetables, many soups and made dishes containing only a small proportion of meat and that the inexpensive cuts. Vegetable salads are a staple, while fresh or dried fruits, coffee, cheese and nuts are the regular dessert. The elaborate creations for which the Italian confectioner is justly famous are reserved for festal occasions.

At first reading many of the recipes may sound elaborate, but in using them it is well to bear in mind the general plan of the Italian menu. Each dish is usually served as a course in itself. A good soup, a savory dish of spaghetti, rice or vegetables combined with meat, a crisp salad dressed with oil and vinegar, followed by a piece of fruit, a bit of cheese and black coffee make a characteristic Italian meal and one with which an epicure could find no fault. It is a meal, moreover, in keeping with the suggestions of our Food Administrator that we use a minimum of meats and sweets and a maximum of soups, fruits, vegetables, made dishes and cheese.

This little venture is launched in the hope that the booklet may pay its way in new suggestions to American homemakers while it is earning money to prevent Italian homes from being destroyed. The expenses incident to publication have been contributed, so that every penny from the sale of every copy is forwarded direct to responsible people in Italy who will use it for food and clothing for the families of Italian soldiers.

Additional copies may be had at fifty cents apiece, from Julia Lovejoy Cuniberti, 14 West Milwaukee street, Janesville, Wisconsin.

  SUGGESTIONS

TOMATO PASTE. This is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices to be had of importers or grocers in Italian neighborhoods. Thinned with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes. Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes as they are too sweet in flavor, but canned tomatoes seasoned with salt and a bit of bay leaf, cooked down to a thick cream and rubbed through a sieve, serve very well in lieu of tomato paste.

PARMESAN CHEESE. When an Italian recipe calls for grated cheese it usually means Parmesan. This is practically unobtainable now, except the grated, bottled cheese, which is inferior in flavor. Gruyère, our own brick cheese, or any skim milk cheese dried and grated fresh as needed makes a good substitute.

DRIED MUSHROOMS. These may be had of importers or small groceries in foreign neighborhoods. They sound expensive until one realizes that a very few ounces go a long way. They make a pleasing variety added to soups or sauces, and are much cheaper and more highly flavored than the canned mushrooms. They should be thoroughly washed and softened in warm water before using.

ANCHOVIES. These recipes do not call for the filets of anchovy prepared for hors-d'oeuvres, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. To clean them plunge in boiling water. This loosens the skin and removes superfluous salt. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for use.

GARLIC. Garlic is an inoffensive and wholesome ingredient if properly handled. Used in small quantities and thoroughly cooked it gives an indescribable flavor that is never disagreeable. By "a clove of garlic" is meant one of the tiny sections of a whole garlic peeled down to its white, fleshy core.

SUBSTITUTION OF OTHER INGREDIENTS. Many of the recipes which have been written down just as they were given can be made more economical and no less delicious by the substitution of clarified drippings, vegetable shortenings and corn or nut oils for salt pork, butter or bacon. Corn-starch is recommended for thickening instead of flour. Anyone who does not care for as much cheese or tomato as the Italian likes, may omit them entirely or greatly reduce the quantity in most of the recipes and still have an excellent dish.

Soups

  BROWN STOCK
Sugo di Carne

• 1 lb. beef from some tough but juicy cut
• A small piece of salt pork
• A large onion
• A stalk of celery
• 2 tablespoons butter
• A carrot
• 2 cloves
• Salt, pepper

Chop the pork and put it in the bottom of a saucepan. Next add the onion, celery and carrot chopped. Dot with butter and over this place the meat cut into small pieces. Add any trimmings from steaks, roasts or chops that may be on hand and any bits of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and the cloves. Put over the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown turn the meat and when everything is extremely brown add a cup of water and let it cook almost dry. Repeat this operation of adding the water three times. Finally add three pints of boiling water and let it boil gently five or six hours, when the stock will be reduced to a few cupfuls. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on top of the liquid.

The meat may afterwards be used for a Flam, for Polpettone or croquettes. The stock may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes. In soups it is far superior to beef extract or bouillon cubes which may be substituted for it.

  VEGETABLE CHOWDER
Minestrone alla Milanese

• ½ lb. salt pork
• 2 or 3 sprigs parsley
• 1 kernel garlic
• 2 carrots
• ¼ medium sized cabbage
• 1 scant cup dried beans, Lima or kidney, soaked over night
• 2 quarts cold water
• A little celery
• Any left over peas
• 1 tablespoon butter
• Rice, salt and pepper

Cut off the rind of the pork and put it into 2 quarts of water to boil. Cut off a small slice of the pork and beat it to a paste with