complying with the foregoing directions, the article being now all ready for graining, having, as shown, received the distemper-color, take three-fourths burnt umber and one-fourth Vandyke brown, mixed with three-fourths turpentine, one-fourth oil and japan, using beeswax or soap to prevent its running as in oak-graining (of course the color must be varied to comply with the ground-work by adding burnt umber, Vandyke brown, or burnt Sienna, as hereinbefore set forth in our directions for oak-graining), and to avoid darkening the graining but a very little, the color should be used thin.

In graining a panel, for instance, in order to obtain a correct imitation of black walnut, the grainer, when running the heart-piece (as shown in our illustrations), should have upon his pallet, glass, or board, a small quantity of umber and Vandyke brown to darken the centre a little, thereby showing the grains perfectly clear in the centre while they lose themselves near the outer edge.

In graining black walnut, combs should be used as little as possible, leaving all the plain parts to be finished in the glazing. For wiping out growths, some use chamois, others use cotton cloths drawn closely over the thumb nail, while many use in place of either, a small piece of rubber, or belting cut about one-fourth of an inch wide at the end used, and in some instances, where a cheap job of graining is desired, rubber combs cut fine and coarse can be used with good success in running growths or hearts by blending lightly after combing.

This brings the work up to a finishing, or shading point, for which purpose use principally Vandyke brown, burnt umber and ivory-black, mixed with oil, turpentine, etc. (as hereinbefore named), and by keeping upon the board, glass or pallet, a little of these separately, and using more of one than the other, a beautiful and correct variety can be produced, it being almost impossible to find two pieces of walnut exactly alike in shade. Like the rest, shading must be applied with a brush, and where crooks, curls, or knots in the grain may appear (see illustrations), careless and light shades should be thrown in, and in the greater number of cases cause growths a trifle darker than edges. For shading the plain parts, a fine and very proper effect will be produced by first applying the color and then by laying on a flat brush, pressing it heavily, and drawing it crooked or straight as desired, then by blending the same very lightly. Where the brush is not thus used, a similar effect can be produced by wiping out lines at small intervals, then blending, in all cases avoiding the too common error of putting too much work in the graining, and preserve a proper harmony of colors so that when completed the work will appear rich, clean, and finished.

All graining can be finished by varnishing, or to imitate in "oil-finish" if preferable. Should the latter be desirable take one (1) quart of turpentine; one-fourth (1/4) lb. of white wax (melted in turpentine), adding one half (1/2) pint of best coach varnish (hard drying); one half (1/2) pint of boiled oil, and one (1) gill of japan—apply with a brush, and use sparingly, one coat is sufficient.

By conforming to our directions, in the graining of black walnut, great and satisfactory results will follow.

ROSEWOOD.

Illustrations of ROSEWOOD include Plates 29-31.

In preparing work for rosewood the same instructions should be followed as are laid down in the preceding remarks upon the graining, etc., of black walnut, for the ground-work of both woods is formed of the same colors, only more of the red and yellow is used for rosewood than walnut, as the former varies more in