CHAPTER XVIII. A Visit to Rugby and a Tramp to the White Horse Hill. Tom Brown's School Days at Rugby.—The Rugby of To-day.—Our Expedition to Tom Brown's Birthplace.—The Highest Horse we Ever Mounted.—The Roman Camp.—King Alfred's Defeat of the Danes.—The Manger and the Dragon's Hill.—The Blowing Stone.—The effect upon our Appetites.—The Tea we did not Drink.—Return to Oxford.—London Once More, 142   CHAPTER XIX. The Most Interesting Building in the World. The Birthplace of the Shorter Catechism.—The Coronation Postponed.—Westminster Abbey Still Closed.—The Assembly of Divines.—The Two Places of Meeting.—The Two Types of Worship.—Interior of the Jerusalem Chamber.—Exterior of the Jerusalem Chamber.—Connection of Henry IV., Sir Thomas More, Joseph Addison, and Sir Isaac Newton with the Jerusalem Chamber.—Architectural Glory of Westminster Abbey.—Its Historical Interest.—Coronations.—The Stone of Scone.—Burials.— Monuments.—Pagan Sculptures in a Christian Church, 151   CHAPTER XX. The Royal Chapels in Westminster Abbey. A Hard-Hearted Verger.—A Courteous Sub-Dean.—The Wax Effigies.—Mutilated Monuments.—Monuments Denied to Notable Persons.—The Objection to Milton.—General Meigs and President Davis.—The Vindication of Cromwell.—Treatment of his Dead Body.—History of his Head.—His Statue at Westminster, 168   CHAPTER XXI. The Cathedrals versus The Gospel. Original Significance of the Cathedrals.—Their Æsthetic Influence.—Their Romanizing Tendency.—Their Charm for the Greatest of the Puritans.—A Half-Reformed Church.—Relics of Romanism.—Effect of Cathedrals on Presbyterian Worship.—Superior Impressiveness of Protestant Simplicity, 177   CHAPTER XXII. Some Things for High Churchmen to Think About. The Use of Written Prayers.—The Huguenot Presbyterians in Canterbury Cathedral.—Scuffle Between the Archbishops of Canterbury and York.—The Concomitants of Anglican Worship.—The Intoning.—Canon Henson at St. Margaret's.—His Remarks on Anglican Narrowness.—What he Could See in Virginia.—Decreasing Attendance in the Anglican Churches in London.—An Episcopalian Estimate of Presbyterian Preaching, 186   CHAPTER XXIII. Paris and Memories of the Huguenots. The English Channel as a Health Resort.—The External Beauty of the French Capital.—What we Did Not Like About Paris.—The Louvre and its Treasures.—The Boer Generals.—The Huguenot Name and the Huguenot Character.—Palissy the Potter.—Other Huguenot Heroes and Heroines.—A Roman Catholic's Condemnation of Roman Catholic Persecutions.—France's Loss the World's Gain.—What we Owe to the Huguenots.—The Huguenot Strain in Virginia.—The Present Huguenot Revival in France.—Brussels and Waterloo, 199   CHAPTER XXIV. The Making of Holland. Unique Interest of Holland.—A Land Below Sea-Level.—Water as an Enemy.—Dykes as Protectors.—How Dykes are Made.—Sand Dunes.—Canals.—Wind-Mills.—Polders.—Entering Holland.—The Scenery and the Scenes.—Rotterdam and Erasmus.—Delft and William the Silent.—The Hague.—Rembrandt's "School of Anatomy."—A Presbyterian Queen.—A Presbyterian Preacher as Prime Minister.—Unpresbyterian Church Buildings.—Would the Destruction of all the Cathedrals have been a Loss or a Gain? 212   CHAPTER XXV. Leyden's University, Haarlem's Flowers, and Amsterdam's Commerce. The Great Siege.—A University as a Reward of Valor.—John Robinson and the Pilgrim Fathers.—Horse Flesh as Food.—Haarlem and the Flower Boom.—Amsterdam's Islands and Canals.—A City Built on Stakes.—Business of Amsterdam.—President Kruger at Utrecht.—Queer Customs in Holland.—The Dutch Mania for Cleanliness.—Mr. Edward Bok on "The Mother of America," 222   CHAPTER XXVI. Up the Rhine and Over the Alps. Cologne and Coblentz.—The Vintage of the Rhine Valley.—Wiesbaden and the German Woods.—The Luther Monument at Worms.—Wintry Weather at Heidelberg.—Strasburg's Cathedral and Clock.—Switzerland in Winter-time.—The Lion of Lucerne.—A Cold Day on the Lake.—Over the Alps.—Snow in Italy.—Milan, 238   CHAPTER XXVII. Venice, Bologna, Florence, and Pisa. The Queen of the Adriatic.—The Fallen Campanile.—Fra Paolo Sarpi, the Greatest of the Venetians.—Busy Bologna.—The Leaning Towers.—The Colonnades.—The Oldest University.—Galvani and his Frog.—The Flower of Fair Cities.—Art Treasures of Florence.—The Reformer Before the Reformation.—Martyrdom of Savonarola.—Pisa's Four Monuments, 245