inclined to stoop when walking, and prevents that ugly ridge so often seen in the back of the coat or blouse caused by the top of the corset.

The Crochet Trimming gives a pretty finish.

They are so very easily made that every woman and girl should make as many as she requires, for they are expensive articles to buy, and the garments one makes for one’s self are likely to outlast three or four of the bought kind and this, too, at about one-third the cost.

This Section of the Front shows the actual size of the Crochet.

The pattern for the Brassiere shown here is in three parts, the front, side-front and back. Half a yard of 36 inch wide linen or cambric is sufficient. The material used must be strong but fine, and linen is, of course, the best for wearing qualities.

Having cut out the sections, join all seams with a row of stitching less than a quarter of an inch from the edge, open out the seams flat and cover each with a casing made by a strip of the linen with the edge turned inwards, each should then be half an inch wide. Stitch close to the edge at each side. The three centre casings have buttonholes worked in the centre of the casing, in an upward direction, each an inch in length. These are to admit of a strip of whalebone, eight inches in length and which can readily be removed for washing.

Turn in a narrow hem at each side of the shoulder section and stitch in place. Make the insertion and place in position on the front, mark the lines at each side, cut the material along the centre where the various strips are to be, turn in a narrow hem and stitch all round. Then turn a hem all round the edge and stitch.

With the crochet hook, put a row of 8 ch 1 d c into the edge of the hem from the lower edge of the back round to the opposite point and around each armhole. Into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice, with 5 ch 1 d c from loop to loop.

Sew a patent fastener to the top edge of the back, and a long strip of tape to the lower edge. The tapes are crossed at the back and brought round to the front to regulate the fit of the brassiere.

This is the pretty Rose beading in Irish crochet, and is made with Manlove’s Irish lace thread, No. 50, with a No. 6 crochet hook.

Form 6 ch into a ring.

1st Row.—6 ch 1 tr into the ring, 3 ch 1 tr into the ring 4 times, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch.

2nd Row.—1 d c 7 tr 1 d c into each loop.

3rd Row.—5 ch 1 d c into the d c between the petals in last row.

4th Row.—1 d c 10 tr 1 d c into each loop.

5th Row.—Same as 3rd, but 6 ch instead of 5.

6th Row.—1 d c 12 tr 1 d c into each loop.

7th Row.—8 ch, picot 5 of them, 3 ch 1 d c into the 3rd tr on 1st petal in last row; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 3rd tr on next petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal.

8th Row.—Turn with 8 ch and repeat the 4 picot loops as in last row, for 8 rows of the 4 loops.

16th Row.—Turn with 5 ch, 1 tr into 1st loop, 2 ch 1 tr into each of the others, turn.

17th Row.—10 ch 1 d c into the 2nd of the 5 ch at the turning of last row.

18th Row.—Repeat the 4 picot loops over the 10 ch and form 5 rows. Then repeat the 16th and 17th rows and form 8 rows more of the picot loops.

Make another rose and join to the picot loops in the last row to correspond with the joining of the first one.

When the front strip is of sufficient length, make the strip for each shoulder and the front piece, joining each to the loops in the straight strip.

Make the straightening rows at each side with 1 tr 2 ch into each loop and petal along the sides, placing the trs so that the chs may form a straight line.

Work a 2nd row of 2 ch 1 tr into each space of 1st row, then finish with 3 d c into each space.

Now top-sew the insertion in place and join the shoulders with a flat “run and fell” seam.

Sew a piece of tape ending with a loop on the point of the front to fasten the Brassiere to the corset.

A Camisole Yoke of Embroidered Filet Net and Crochet.

From this diagram the Shamrock Design can be worked in darning.

Machine-made filet net was used in making this pretty yoke, on which the trefoil is worked in darning stitch with Tenax embroidery silk in a moss-rose shade of pink. Other lovely shades can be had in the Tenax silk, and blue, green, or mauve will answer quite as well. The shape is cut out from the net, allowing two meshes for a margin at all edges.

Using No. 70 Peri-Lusta crochet cotton, overcast the two rows of meshes left as a margin with an overcasting through each mesh, then with a No. 5 crochet hook work a row of d c all round the edges, 2 d c into each mesh.

Around the edge of the sleeve part, neck, and fronts of the yoke, work a row of 9 ch loops, 1 into every 4th d c.

Then into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice.

The trefoil is then worked in simple darning stitch. Have the wrong side turned towards you while doing the embroidery, as all fastenings of the thread must be made on this side.

The trefoil can readily be copied from the diagram.

This kind of trimming would also be pretty for a Blouse or Jumper.

A Pretty Camisole Yoke.

Use No. 70 Peri-Lusta Crochet for this pretty yoke.

Form 5 ch into a ring, into which put 8 d c, and close the row with a s c into the 1st d c, 6 ch 1 tr into next d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each d c, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch to close a row of 8 spaces.

3rd Row.—5 d c into each sp.

4th Row.—7 ch, 1 long tr into the 1st ch (thread 3 times over the needle)—the 7 ch stands for a long tr—work off the loops of the long tr, two at a time, but retain the last on the needle; make another long tr through the same ch stitch, work off as before, then work off all the loops together. Make 7 ch, and repeat the 2 long tr through the 1st of the 7 ch, 1 ch, 1 d c into the d c over the next tr in the row below, repeat this long tr loop into the d c over each tr (8 loops).

5th Row.—6 ch, bring these up behind the 1st loop and fasten with a d c on centre of the loop, 10 ch 1 d c into centre of each loop.

6th