Row.—12 d c over each 10 ch.

7th Row.—10 ch, 6 triple tr into the d c on centre of 1st loop below, 3 ch between the trs, * 10 ch, 1 d c over the d c on centre of next loop, 10 ch 6 triple tr with 3 ch between into the d c over centre of next loop, and repeat from *.

8th Row.—12 d c over each 10 ch, over each 3 ch put 1 d c 7 ch 1 d c.

To Join the Motifs.

Work the last row to the 3rd group of picots, form 2 of the picots as before; for the 3rd picot make only 2 ch, join to the 3rd picot on preceding motif with a d c, make 2 ch, then continue on to next picot on the motif in hands, and join the next two in the same way; 12 d c over next 10 ch, 6 ch 1 d c into the d c between the two bars on preceding motif after the joining, come back on the 6 ch with 2 ch, 1 d c over the centre of the 6 ch, 3 ch, 12 d c over next chs on the motif, then join next 3 picots as before and finish off the motif.

Twenty-three motifs are required for this yoke.

The extension of the front at each side is formed of a motif and the point. For the point, make the ring as in the centre of the motif, then 6 ch 1 tr into the 1st d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each of next 2 d c, turn.

2nd Row.—9 d c into 1st loop, 5 d c into each of next two, turn, and put three of the long tr loops into the d c’s over the trs in the same manner as in the motif.

4th Row.—Turn, 10 ch, 1 d c into top of long tr loop; put the 6 triple trs into the d c’s as before with the 3 ch between and the two 10 ch loops.

5th Row.—Make the picots and d c’s as in the motif, joining to the 2 lower groups of triple trs as before.

There are 23 motifs in all required, 4 for each front, 5 for the back, 4 for each shoulder and the two extensions.

To Re-sole Cashmere Stockings.

Stockings re-soled according to the following directions can be worn with slippers, and will be found comfortable.

Fig. 1.

Place the stocking as shown in Fig. 1, cut off the sole at the dotted line a—b; then cut off the toe at the line c—d. As the heel of the sole piece will not lie flat it must be slit, until, when laid out, it resembles fig. 2. Cut pieces to these patterns from the leg of another stocking, allowing turnings as follows:

Fig. 2.

Fig. 1, the toe piece, ½-inch at c—d where it joins the stocking; fig. 2. ½-inch all round except at the lines a—b, c—b, where ¼-inch only must be allowed. If the stocking is short this can be remedied by leaving the extra length required at fig. 1, a, and fig. 2, d, in addition to the turnings previously mentioned.

Machine the new toe piece to the stocking at c—d (fig. 1), open and press the seam. Machine a—b to b—c, of the sole piece (fig. 2), open and press the seam. Machine this new sole to the stocking, open and press the seam. Fasten down all seams with small slip stitches.

It is advisable to use mercerised cotton or silk, and to leave the tension of the machine rather slack.

Three Pretty Aprons.

In a Christmas parcel sent to me from Italy this year, I found two of the dearest little aprons I have ever seen—much less owned.

AN EASILY SLIPPED-ON APRON.

They were so very unusual and yet so simple of make, that I feel every girl who is fond of aprons would love to have one. To these two I have added one other, equally simple, and which costs but a few pence all told.

An Easily-Slipped-on Apron.

The first one of the three is one of the Italian ones, and is made of two yards of ordinary kitchen roller towel. This particular one is made from unbleached linen, utterly free from coloured stripes or borders.

From a two yard length of towelling, cut off a strip ten inches long, which will be used for the waistband.

At one end of the long length make a three inch hem, this being the front.

Now lay this strip on the table, and measuring 39 inches from the hem, make a dot with a lead pencil, and take this dot as the centre of a circle 33 inches in circumference, which also mark out with the pencil with the help of a compass. Next cut out this circle and neatly turn in the raw edge, making a tiny hem. At the back of the apron, that is the end unhemmed, make three pleats—one box pleat in the centre and two outward turning ones on either side of the centre pleat.

Cut the ten inch strip into two 5 inch ones, and join in the middle to form a long band. Fold this neatly in the middle and point one end, letting the other end be straight.

Join to the back of the apron and stitch on firmly by machine. Put a fastening in the form of a button and button-hole, or hook and eye, or patent fastener, on each end of the belt, to complete the apron.

Slip the head through the circular opening and let the apron fall on to the shoulders, and join the waistband in the front, and there you have the simplest and quickest made apron one could possibly imagine.

The decoration on my little apron consists of a design of three conventional red roses with green leaves and stalk, separated by 5 graduated dots, the largest being in the middle. This occurs across the foot of the apron, about half an inch from the front hem, and again around the neck, but three inches from the edge of the circle. Right round the circle is a line of stitching in brown silk, then a row of green French knots, and then another line of brown, making a narrow band.

In the centre of the belt is a large button covered in linen, and a single red rose, minus the stalk, worked on it.

An Apron with Smocking.

The second apron is also Italian, but this one is more suitable for needlework or knitting, when one’s frock is apt to pick up pieces of thread or fluff from the wool. It is easily made from a piece of white alpaca, 22 inches long by 27 inches wide. A straight piece of material is used, and the edges are scalloped in three inch wide scallops. Down both sides and along the bottom there is embroidered in white silk, a design of leaves, with a centre flower worked in Richelieu openwork, and the effect of this on the alpaca is really very beautiful.

AN APRON WITH SMOCKING AND RICHELIEU EMBROIDERY.

At the top the apron is narrowed by means of three groups of honeycomb or diamond smocking, terminating in points. A tiny pocket on the right hand side has also a little smocking at the base to correspond. This pocket is made from a 6 inch square of the material and is fastened to the apron by means of