factory—The monastery and monks—Our Paestum day—Vesuvius before the charmed gaze—Birthplace of Tasso—Celebrated places—Second trial of Naples—Trip from Naples to Rome—Ancient Capua—Monte Casino, its associations—Rome—Palm Sunday—Various services—English lady—Holy Week—Drive on the Via Appia—The Catacombs and tombs—The grotto—The tree of Numa’s wisdom.

Rome Letter—April 24, 1883,

251

  Importance of address in a foreign land—Guercino’s fresco of Aurora—Scene in Imperial Rome—“Rome mistress of the world”—Story of Eve—Tasso memorial room—Swarm of lizards—A view of St. Peter’s—Pompey’s statue—The Plaza—The Jews’ quarters, called Ghetto—The house of Rienzi—Protestant cemetery—Burial place of Keats and the heart of Shelley.

Rome Letter—May 2, 1883,

261

  “While Rome stands, the world stands”—The rounds of churches—The galleries and museums—Palaces and shops—“Being in Rome, do as Romans do”—Piazzi di San Giovanni, the largest in existence—One of the eleven obelisks—Mosaic frescoes—The queen in her carriage—Church of St. Onafrio, on the Janiculus—The three frescoes by Domenichino and Leonardo da Vinci—Tasso buried here—Three churches of the Aventine—Galleries—Artists’ quarters—Our Rodgers and Ives—Their art—Italian artist—Dwight Benton, formerly of Cincinnati, Ohio—Italian scenes.

Maiori Letter—April 5, 1886,

274

  Apology for delinquent letter—“What a butterfly she is!”—One of the party sick—On the Mediterranean—Longfellow’s poem—The steep climb—The poor little donkey—Features of the scene—“The death in life”—The region abounds in drives—Talk of Sicily and Africa—A letter—The sacred few ...—The little book—Blessed be the potato, henceforth and forever!

Naples Letter—May 1, 1886,

281

  A drive to Salerno—From there to Paestum—The temple of Neptune—An incident of missing glasses—Return to Salerno—Then to Pompeii—Naples—Friends from Tunis—A steamer for Sicily—Storm at sea—Palermo, its environs—The palaces—The drives and places we visited—The museum, Metopes, and splendid art—Beauty of the country—The fountain of Arethusa—Roman amphitheater—The quarries—Mt. Etna—The seven rocks of Cyclops—Messina—That coat of arms of Sicily—The heart-ache of good-byes.

Lauterbrunnen Letter—July 29, 1886,

291

  Wrought up over letters—“Poaching on your preserves”—The cause of wit—Friends, their character estimated—Of writing—Sojourn in the beautiful valley—The Staubach—The Jungfrau.

Egypt Letter—December 30, 1886,

295

  Aboard steamer Prince Abbas—On the Nile—“In the teeth of a storm”—Sunrise and sunset on the Mediterranean—Acquaintances, a citizen from the “hub”—At Alexandria—The seven wonders—To Cairo—English officers—The Pyramids—Pillars at Heliopolis—“The Virgin’s tree”—The island of Rhodda—Mosques and tombs—The site of Memphis—“Twelve miles of wonderland”—The air—The flowers—The guests on steamer—One can live too much in books.

Egypt Letter From Paris—February 10, 1887,

302

  Agreeable surprises—Down the Nile—The atmosphere and mysterious influence of scene—Landing of steamer—Our donkey ride—The tombs—The imposing magnificence of the monuments—Rain in Egypt—Reflections—Pictures to help tell the story—The coming book.

Cuba Letter—April 7, 1885,

307

  The magical isle of Cuba—Tropical vegetation—Sunrise in the harbor of Havana—The trip on the steamer—Moro Castle—Strange scene on landing—The buildings—The drive, atmosphere and scenery—The watch incident—Shopping expedition—People we met—To Cerro—Sugar plantations and process of sugar-making—The caves—The beautiful island, Cuba—The freedom of slaves—Spanish government.

A Vision of Fatigue,

322

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.