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*15. LALLA BABA } 84 *16. LOOKING TOWARDS THE VILLAGE OF ANAFARTA } *17. H.M.S. SARNIA LANDING TROOPS IN SUVLA BAY 86 *18. SALT LAKE FROM CHOCOLATE HILL 88 *19. TRANSPORTS UNDER SHELL-FIRE—SUVLA BAY 90 *20. DRESSING STATION—"A" BEACH 92 *21. SUPPORTING SHIPS AT THE SUVLA LANDING } 94 *22. ANZAC } *23. ANZAC 96 *24. MOTOR LIGHTERS } 98 25. GENERAL SIR IAN HAMILTON'S HEADQUARTERS } 26. SEAPLANE BASE 100 27. SEAPLANES AT KEPHALO 102 28. H.M.S. EXMOUTH IN KEPHALO HARBOUR 104 29. SUBMARINE E11 AT KEPHALO 106 30. H.M.S. BEN-MY-CHREE AT KEPHALO 108 31. HOSPITAL SHIPS AT KEPHALO 110 32. FRENCH FLAGSHIP SUFFREN 112 33. HOSPITAL SHIP AQUITANIA 114 34. SUBMARINE E2 RETURNING FROM THE SEA OF MARMORA } 116 35. MUDROS HARBOUR } 36. HOSPITAL SHIP AQUITANIA AT MUDROS 118

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THE DARDANELLES

CHAPTER I
FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Before entering upon the subject of this chapter I cannot help a passing allusion to the lack of pictorial records of this war—records made by artists of experience, who actually witness the scenes they portray.

Our descendants will surely regret the omission when they try to gather an impression of the greatest war in history from the inadequate material obtainable.

I do not lose sight of the fact that many professional artists are fighting with our army in France and elsewhere. But life in the trenches is so arduous that it is doubtful if many records will come to us from this source.

The start of my journey was not at all what I had intended. I had imagined myself busily sketching our departure and attempting to get some of the delightful colour and abundant movement of the lower Thames.

In actual fact, I spent most of this time lying on a settee, trying to overcome the effects of inoculation, though rather cheered, it is true, by the thought of the annoyance set up amongst the millions of germs inhabiting my system.

I made several efforts to go on deck, but was forced each time to give in and return to my cabin.

This was the more annoying, as we were passing through what to any traveller by sea, and to me especially, was the most interesting zone: full of romance and mystery, with stories of sunken submarines, rumours of nets and mines, and all the strange happenings of this strangest of wars.

There was naturally a certain amount of speculation on the steamer as to the possibility of attack by submarine: this new factor in modern warfare, which, from a romantic point of view, has so largely conduced to the elimination of spectacular fighting.

At the time of sailing we had heard of submarine activity in the western entrance to the Channel, though the apparent indifference of the passengers was a wonderful testimony to the calmness of the Briton in the presence of a very real danger. However, hopes ran fairly high that we might soon get into safe waters, as we were favoured with a fairly heavy